Travelogues
The South China Tour was a true cycling tour, a non mass riding and my first tour without support vehicle. I was ambitious in this tour and actually planned to ride from GuangZhou to Yunnan of China. However, due to an accident and my bike set up was unsuitable for riding in China mountainous terrain. I ended my tour after GuiZhou. Here how the tour went.
29 Apr 01 - Day 1 Singapore - Guangzhou - Sanshui
Cycling Distance: 50 km
Why a cycling tour in China? Was I crazy to do such a thing at middle age? Mid-life crisis? Was I selfish to leave the family behind and put my life at risk? The answer would be out at the end of the tour.
The flight landed punctually and had no problem to clear custom and immigration. The only thing surprised me was that I did not see Peter as I stepped out the custom checkpoints . 20 minutes had passed and I felt like a helpless child standing in the middle of the Arrival Hall. I started to worry as my patience ran out.
Peter, 44, an American married a Chengdu Chinese wife, was my cycling companion for part of my tour. I knew him through Internet and we had never met before in person. Finally, I saw a lanky white man running towards the right entrance. My instinct told me that he was the guy. Peter appeared apologetic after a brief introduction. We found a quiet corner to fix up my bike and thanked God, the bike was in its original packing condition. We left the Airport at about 4:30 pm and headed to Sanshui.Here we were, Guangzhou! This was my 4th time here but the first time I rode a bicycle here. I was thrilled to ride a bicycle here. The city was full of vehicles and bicycles were everywhere. Bicycle lanes were shared among the scooters, jaywalkers and inconsiderate drivers making turns through the bicycle lanes. To survive on the road, had to be daring, extremely defensive and always expect the unexpected.
It was an entirely different experience as compared to sitting in an enclosed air-conditioned automobile. The air was much polluted than Singapore and the drivers here like to use their deafening honks to defend their rights of way or show their anger. The noise level was so high that had to shout to communicate. May be, this was the reason why the Cantonese were the noisiest people, they talked as if quarrelling and shouting.
So many people, walking, riding bicycles, working on construction on a Sunday afternoon. It was so crowded that we could only ride about 15 km/h in the city. The weather was fine and as we were further from the city, the air quality became better but we climbed more gradual slopes. Along the way, we were welcomed by the friendly people waving to us. We finished the 50 km ride and arrived Sanshui as the sun set.
My cousin, Guo Xin had booked me a room at CTS hotel and Peter was staying another hotel with his wife. We split and arranged to meet next morning.
As I finished my shower, Gou Xin appeared at my doorstep. She was 29, a charming, cheerful and talkative lady working in the Environment Ministry. We shared the same great grandfather. We got along well since we met 4 years ago. We had a long talk after dinner together. I was so tired after the first day journey.
30 Apr 01 - Day 2 Lubao 30 km
I woke up at 8:15 am. My throat was a little dry, probably due to the polluted air in GuangZhou. I met up with Peter and he introduced his wife Michel to me. Michel has got a long beautiful hair that reaching her hip. She spoke good English and friendly. I introduced Peter to uncle Kong Sow and his family. Uncle Kong Sow, father of Guo Xin, shared the same grandfather with my father. We had Tim Sum breakfast together. They were shocked when I told them that I was embarking for a cycling tour in China.
We went to Bank of China to arrange finance for the trip. I was surprised to meet May at the Bank. May, my cousin's wife (uncle Kong Sow eldest son's wife) and a bank staff there. With her assistance, I got a much better exchange rate deal from the black market and we managed to finish our banking at noon. 2 things I learnt from banking in China. It was good to know someone and got much better service. The banking service was very much less efficient than Singapore. It took us more than one and a half hour to finish a simple transaction.
After lunch, Peter and I started our ride at 2:15 pm while Michel took a bus to Lubao. The weather today was not as kind as yesterday. It was a hot day and no difference from the tropical weather. The scorching sun was burning and there was no shade along the way. The terrain was relatively flat and we had tail wind helping us and I could hit 35 km/h at peak. It was a smooth ride until we missed the turn to Lubao. We only realised we missed Lubao after 5 km had past. The detour was discouraging as we had to face the direct sunlight and headwind. For that, we ended up half an hour later to reach Lubao.
I met up with uncle Keang Sow, my father's elder brother. Uncle Keang Sow had suffered a lot as a child. My grandfather passed away when he was 9. My grandmother brought my father to Singapore to earn a living like most of the migrants did before the World War and left him behind to be taken care of by my grandaunt (my grandmother's younger sister) as my grandmother had not enough money for another ship ticket. He ended up growing in an orphanage home later. They lost contact during Japanese invasion. By the time the war was over, uncle Keang Sow could not be migrated to Singapore.
I was warmly welcomed by uncle Keang Sow with 3 rice bowls of hometown fish soup to quench my thirst. He also hosted me a welcoming dinner with other relatives and villagers present. Later, we had a long talk over mah-jong games.
01 May 01 - Day 3 Qing Yuan 50 km
The weather was 9 C below than yesterday. A cloudy day after a heavy down pour last night. Peter and Michel were invited to join us for breakfast. Uncle Keang Sow happily and proudly said that this was his first time had a shake hand with a Guei Low (westerner).
I went to pay respect to ancestors especially my grandmother who brought me up with her tender care. Since Oct 96, her ashes was brought back to hometown to be buried with my grandfather upon request by uncle Keang Sow.
The weather continued to be cloudy. The first 20 km was flat and followed by some rolling hills for the next 30 km. Along the way, both sides of the road were farms and farmhouses. Old ladies sitting by the side of road engaging in conversations while children playing at the sides of the road. Some parts of the road were under construction and had to overcome road obstacles. Half way through, we saw an interesting sight, there was at least the size of a battalion of geese moving along the highway under the control of the geese handlers.
We finally arrived Qing Yuan after 50 km ride. Peter and I stopped at a phone rental kiosk to contact Michel who came together with my cousin, Wai to Qing Yuan by bus, shortly after we left. While Peter making his call, a big crowd of local men and boys surrounded us. They admired our bicycles and some boys even curiously touched the bicycles. That made us very uncomfortable and we left the kiosk as soon as we could. We met up with Michel and Wai. After dinner, we split our ways. Wai and I took a stroll along the city and visited the night market, the longest night market compared to those at Hong Kong and Taipei that I had seen. Qing Yuan was famous for its farm chicken.
02 May 01 - Day 4 Jiu Long 63 km
After bid farewell to Wai and Michel. We headed for Jiu Long at 9 am. The weather was similar to yesterday, cloudy and 23C when we left.
Soon after we left Qing Yuan city, we hit the first highway, G107. This was a double carriageway with a lane for cyclist. The cyclist lane was wide enough for a car and through out the ride, we met only a few cyclists. There were paddy field and a river running on the right. There were people fishing, children and ducks swimming in the river.
We went through 2 tunnels along G107 and the first one was scary. There were no lights in the tunnel and on my bicycle. To avoid staying in danger for too long, I hit 45 km/h to get out of the dim and narrow tunnel. There were also rolling hills along G107.
After the 50 km from Qing Yuan, we visited the first attraction - Jin Long(Golden Dragon)Cave. When we arrived, a crowd of local boys and girls, age between 10-12, selling mineral stones, surrounded us. They were healthy looking kids with readily smile and some of them were bared footed. They were more interested to find out more about us than selling their stones. They asked all sort of curious questions like any kid. I was told by them that all the village people here shared the same surname - Her. They also told me that they walked 10 km to find those copper contained stones.
Jin Long Cave was identical to Ah Loo Koo Cave in Yunnan that I visited last year. We took an under ground riverboat ride to view the naturally formed stones.
The journey after Jin Long to Jiu Long was not smooth. We rode 13 km of bumpy unpaved road, which was full of potholes, ponding water and mud. We could only rode 10 km/h and after an hour of riding, I lost my concentration and to avoid a big ponding water, I landed on a patch of mud and my front wheel was sunk into it. I lost my balance and fell on my left. Fortunately, my glove saves my left palm and my pannier helped absorb the fall and no damage to the bicycle. Only a small scratch on my left elbow. My bicycle was not designed for cross country and with my tiny tyres, I was happy with its performance. We ended the 63 km journey at 3:30 pm. Jiu Long was a small town and by 8 pm, the shops along the main street were closed.
 Highway G107 before Jin Long Cave |
 Entrance to Jin Long Cave |
03 May 01 - Day 5 Yang Shan 83 km
There were 2 routes to Yang Shan. I hate to ride on the 13 km bumpy unpaved road to get back to G107. The obvious choice was a paved road which heading north and eventually backs to G107.
We got good breakfast at Jiu Long, hand made rice roll with meat and egg, steamed on the spot and frog meat porridge. We set off at 9:30 am and another incredible day!
The weather was like the last few day, cloudy and cooling in the morning. After a km ride, we were out of Jiu Long main street. We rode on a cemented road, which was shared with cows, buffaloes and farmers. Paddy field was on both side of the road and farmers were busy working on it. We rode at slow pace to enjoy the 4 km village view. Before we could warm up our body, a hill was in front to give us a good morning work out. The hour-long 8 km climb out of the valley rewarded us so much peace. The climbing was tough but nothing compared to the later part of the journey. After 8 km of ascent and decent, we came to another village and the scenery here was so fascinating that I could not describe with my limited vocabulary. This village was in a valley where both left and right were limestone hills popping out from the ground like mushroom, paddy field stretching from the foot of the hills to the running stream of both sides. There was a row of women washing clothes on the upper stream and ducks swimming in the lower stream. It was life! So real. We were treated with 8 km flat paved road with fascinating view until we did our next climb.
The next climb was the first toughest climb for this trip. I had to stop twice to take a break to reach the hilltop. A 3.5 km steep climb was rewarded with beautiful view from the top and a 6 km decent. I hit a max speed of 60 km/h. After 42 km of county road, we were on highway G107 again. The worst for the day had just begun.
This was my worst climb on a highway in my cycling history. A 6 km steep hill was no easy task for even the fittest man. I had to stop every 2 km to catch my breath and rest my wobbling legs. It was 1:30 pm and the breakfast that I took had used up. Once we reached the top, it was 4 km of flat road and we found a reasonably good eating-house. During lunch, Peter told me that the terrain in later part of the journey would be worst than that. I was discouraged and demoralised as I had made almost 90% of my effort for the last climb. My bicycle gear ratio was not good for long distance climbing as I had only double crank (52/38) and the biggest cog set gear was 29. How?
After lunch, we went through the most frightening and the longest tunnel. The 3 km long tunnel was dim and narrow. When the speeding truck coming from behind and the echo from the tunnel, I felt that I was chasing by a hungry beast. When the trucks past me, I could feel that I was sucking away. I told Peter that we should not ride on highway again.
After the terrifying tunnel, we were on a 6 km roller coaster. It was just like coming down from Shears Bright back home except this one was much longer. I hit 65 km/h even I used my brake to slow down the speed. After this thrilling and horrifying descent, we did some ascent and descent again before we completed the 83 km journey at Yang Shan at 4:30 pm. Yang Shan was just a small town and nothing facinating. The hotel here was over-priced.
 Scenery at Jiu Long |
 Scenery at Jiu Long |
04 May 01 - Day 6 Lian Nan 81 km
After 5 days of riding especially the tough ride yesterday, I felt lethargic this morning. It was raining last night and drizzling in the morning. We waited until 11 am but the rain did not stop. I hate to ride under rain but still proceeded on.
We chose to ride on the county road and abandoned highway G107. We made the right choice. We rode along a river flowing on the left, the wider part of the river was about 100 M and there were boats sailing on it. Further left to the river was paddy field and followed by endless mountain line. There were farmhouses below the mountain. On the right, although no river, there was paddy field as closed as 2 M away and there were farmers working on it under the rain.
We enjoyed the scenery and rode at a slow pace. After 20 km, we stopped at a village for lunch. The 20 RMB lunch was awful. What could one expect in such a rural place? We continued enjoyed scenic flat terrain for the first 28km. After that, we had a 2.5 km ascent with same distance reward of descent. Then followed by countless ascents and decents.
The rain got heavier after riding 50 km, on top of an unknown hilltop, I met the first minority, an old Yao woman who dressed in black, headdress in blue and white and wearing a red waist ban. For the next 15 km, we past a few Yao villages and I had a photo taken with an old man who look like a village chief carrying a long bamboo smoking pipe. There were also a bunch of children and old ladies surrounded us and we gave them some dried food.
We also visited the attraction along the way -Yao village. It was very crowded and tour buses came after one and other. The tourists were from all over China as since 1 May, the Chinese had continuous holidays until 8 May, their golden week.
After that, we enjoyed a 13 km of descent and ended the 81 km mountain road before dark. When we reached Lian Nan, we had a hard time to get hotel rooms for the night and managed to get one with the help of a local. I had also a hard time to clean up my bicycle and panniers. We rode under rain throughout the whole journey. It was another tough ride but rewarding and worth the effort.
2 things very interesting: I had been staying in hotels with squatting bowl for the last 2 days and no flushing cistern. Had to pour water to flush. Next, riding to a place with the name of 'Shan' (mountain) that meant there were hill/mountain to climb, a lot of mountains.
 With a Yao minority village chief |
 A few km to Lian Nan |
05 May 01 - Day 7 Lian Nan
The rain continued since yesterday. My riding gears were still wet and since I would not like to ride like yesterday. I gave myself a break today. A well deserved break after 6 days of riding. We walked to the town after lunch when the rain stopped. I
We visited the wet market that sold everything under the sun. In the dead/dried department there were baby snakes, sacks of scorpions, horns from antelope, as well as a lot of things I didn't recognise. In the freshly dead department, and the live section, I saw lots of frogs, turtles, fish, eels, cats, dogs, raccoons, snakes, baby deer, wild turkey, chickens, pigeons, farm rats and ducks. The butcher department was particularly revolting as sections and whole carcasses were hung up for display. It seemed like the only spare from the hook was man. There were people selling tobacco too. The market place was wet and filthy.
Lian Nan was a small town where the Han people are the main dominant in the town and the Yao people lived in the villages in the mountain area.
06 May 01 - Day 8 Her Zhou Cycling 88 Km
The rain had stopped although the road was still wet. We started our journey at 8:30 am. Just barely a km on the road out of the town. It was uphill and downhill again. We had reached the elevation of 580 m, the highest so far. Maybe a good rest yesterday, the climbing seemed not as tough as the day before or maybe psychologically, I had already prepared for the worst. The scenery was an extension of day before, mountain, river and farms, as beautiful. We past through some Yao villages and after the first mountain past and 39 km of tough ride, we arrived at Lian Shan town, a bigger town than Lian Nan.
We had a good lunch and left at 1:10 pm. Soon after 5 km of riding out of the town, we had to justify for the good lunch we took. After 65 km of riding, we reached the peak, the second mountain past, Ying Yang Kuan, the border between Guangzhou and Guangxi, we had entered into Guangxi province!
I was too happy and became complacent during descent. After 4 km of descent, I became the flying bikeman and rolled like a bowling ball. I skidded on the slippery oil patches left behind by vehicle. I hurt my left hip, left leg, left ankle and left elbow with road rashes. The injury on my left hip suffered the most as I was skidded 20M on my hip against the rough road surface. I also torn my cycling tights and luckily, the damage to my bicycle was minor and still in good working condition. Peter who rode behind me came to my rescue. He helped to wash and bandaged my skin tearing wounds. I was able to ride and glad that we had only another 19 km to ride before we reached our planned destination - Ta Lin.
The last 6 km to Ta Lin was torturing. We rode on an unpaved bad road. I was also tortured with strong sunlight burning directly on my exposed skin, which I did not prepare for it - I did not apply sun block lotion. The bouncy road also hurt my wounds. I was so happy to reach Ta Lin but to my disappointment, the one and only motel here was in bad shape and there was another 25 km of unpaved road in front of us to our next destination. With my condition, no way we could get to the nearest city - Her Zhou which was 50 km from Ta Lin, for a decent accommodation before dark. We finally decided to take a truck to Her Zhou. We made the right decision, the 25 km unpaved road was worst than the 6 km that we rode befor Ta Lin. It was not only potholes everywhere but also muddy everywhere and not possible for my bicycle to ride on it.
After bouncing for 2 hours on a bone shaking delivery truck, we reached Her Zhou at 7:15 pm. The good thing was, we had the best hotel so far - Sin Shi Jee ( New Century) hotel. I needed a comfortable place to heal my wound desperately. After treating my wound and had dinner almost at 9 pm. I went to the nearby night market and got things fixed; zippers replaced and torn items sewn up by the army of tailors lining the streets.
This market is a typical minority market with everybody decked out in his or her Sunday best. The costumes were not to be missed. I was totally exhausted after the evening walk.
 Just before Lian Shan |
 At Ying Yang mountain pass |
07 May 01 - Day 9 Her Zhou
I was not going to torture myself riding with the fresh wounds and I needed a day or 2 to let the wound dry. I was "licking" my wounds in the comfortable hotel room. I had the luxury to write my general impression of China and how I felt for the past week. The people, bicycle, food, road and transportation here.
The people we came across were helpful and friendly. Many occasions, when we asked for road directions and conditions, they would explained patiently and some even helped to lead us to where we wanted. When we past through the villages, we were always welcomed with 'hello' from the farmers working from the distant farms and readily smiles from the the villagers, we were usually surrounded especially by the curious children asking questions like most kids did.
Bicycle in China was a mode of transport and bicycles were everywhere. Although motorcycles were also everywhere but had not taken the popularity of bicycle totally, especially in small towns and villages. In some towns, I had seen well-groomed lady in skirt riding bicycle with their handbag in the handle bar basket, possibly, to office. Villagers rode bicycles to their nearest towns to do shopping and very often carrying their goods on the bicycles. The tiny bicycles were also used to transport bulky goods like flowerpots, furniture and gunny sacks etc. The bicycles they rode were usually single speed, poorly maintained with dry and rusty chain and screeching sound when pedal.
There were many people earning a living from bicycle - the bicycle repairman. They were scattered along busy streets with their makeshift repair kiosks equipped with simple tools like bicycle floor pump, a basin with water, tyre patching kits and a few spanners and wrenches.
My bicycle set up was not suitable for China. To overcome the bouncy unpaved road, I need at least 35C tyre to absorb the vibration and to ride across the muddy patches. To overcome the mountainous terrain, a triple crank armed with a granny gear was needed. My bicycle gear ratio made climbing extremely tough and that drained out my energy fast. To overcome the frequent rain, I needed fenders to prevent dirty water splashing on me. I needed a raincoat too.
Come to food, we had been eating in the most popular province for food - Guangzhou, there was this famous Chinese saying: che zai (eat in) Guangzhou. The Guangzhou people eat pratically anything. For the past week, I had been eating fresh food direct from the farm. I like the banana here too, very fragrant and sweet, a bunch of 10 for only 2 RMB (40-50 cents), had been my energy source. However, the dish serving in restaurant here was always very big even though we kept emphasizing only for 2. The serving usually ended up more than enough for 4 persons.
The paved road here was different from Singapore. Here mostly cement road where Singapore road were tarmac. Generally, the road condition here was not as good as Singapore and standard of road conditions varied greatly here. Some part of the paved road were very rough and some major roads here were unpaved.
Riding in China was a world of different. Over here, the city/town are basins/valley surrounded by hills, from one city/town to another, that meant to climb hill/mountains to reach another flat ground or basin. I had ridden 175 km on a single day on West Malaysia road but was not as strenuous as riding 80 km on mountainous roads here. I could only attained 16-18 km/h here as compared to 25km/h on Singapore/Malaysia road. The land transportation here was not as convenient as back home. Other than big city, there was no taxi. In a city like Her Zhou, the public transport were buses and motor-tricycle which basically modified from a motorcycle to a 3- wheels vehicle, 2 wheel behind with covered seats that could take 2-3 passengers. In some places like Sanshui and Lubao, there were motorcycle pillion service to get to places for 2 RMB. Many people earn their honest living this way.
08 May 01 - Day 10 Yang Shou 150 km
I entirely enjoyed the scenery along the road. Both sides of the road were big and wide paddy fields stretching right to the foot of the endless limestone formation mountain lines. The mountains came in all form of shapes but the heights were similar. To my imagination, it was like cow dung dropping from the sky to form these unique formations. The mist were clouding around at the 3/4 height of the mountains and it looked so mystery. It was like an endless Chinese Shan Shui painting presenting one after another.
The road to Yang Shou was so flat that beyond my expectation. It was the flattest road so far for this trip. The road condition was superbly good and smooth especially the last 40 km to Yang Shou. It was a cemented road.
About 50 km to Yang Shou, something horrible happened right in front of my eyes. A motionless man with his face smashed against the road lying next to 2 collided motorcycles. Blood drained like rainwater and many people looking from a distance. No ambulance, no police and no one near the body.
We reached Yang Shou at 3 pm. The first impression about Yang Shou was that it was made for the road weary with treats of the West. Pubs and western restaurants were everywhere and there were many westerners cycling around town and hanging around pubs and western restaurants. There were also many souvenir shops. It was also a great place to share information about the road ahead, what to avoid and what not to miss.I bought some medicine to treat my wounds. We had a good dinner and spent the evening patronising the pubs along the street. With the rock & roll music blasting from the pubs, I wondered whether we were still in China?
09 May 01 - Day 11 Yang Shou
When I woke up this morning, I first checked on my wounds. My left elbow wound had dried up but not my left leg and hip wound and the wounds were still inflamed with burning pain. I had got a good western breakfast with black coffee this morning before our exploration on Yang Shou. Yang Shou, one of the most scenic place in China which ex US president Bill Clinton had visited in 1998. I was excited to explore this place.
It was a cool windy morning after a night rain. My long sleeve T-shirt could not protect me from the chill. The temperature, my estimate, should be between 18-20C.
We joined a tour for sightseeing. The 30 km bumpy country road drive was compensated with beautiful scenery. After we arrived at the bus terminal at Sin Pin town, we took a motor-tricycle and walked a few hundred meters muddy track before arrived at the boat boarding point. We had boat cruise along Li River, I enjoyed the cool wind blowing at my face and the endless layers and layers of limestone hills along both sides of the river. Waterfall pouring silvery water from the mid hill into the river. My greedy eyes never got tired admiring the shapely hills along the river.
The river was calm and peaceful as my mood. The beautiful sight relieved the pain of my wound. I lifted up the bandage on my left leg and let the cool wind to sooth and dry the wound. It was magical and my leg wound just dried up. It was a long boat ride and shortly after a quick simple lunch, we embarked onto another boat ride to a Fish Village that president Clinton had visited. The river cruise ended almost at 5 pm and we were driven back to our hotel. I needed more clothes to withstand the cold temperature at night.
We had a simple dinner in order to catch a night river cruise to view the cormorant fishing. The cormorant, black birdie, slightly bigger than the duck were trained by the fishermen here to do fishing. The fisherman used a long wooden pole to propel the raft that carrying 6-10 cormorants. When the cormorants were released, they dived into the water to catch fishes using their beaks and kept their preys in the neck. The fisherman would then poured out the fishes from their throat. The night cruise ended at 9 pm.
 Li River of Yang Shou |
 Li River of Yang Shou |
10 May 01 - Day 12 Guilin 70 km
I felt good today as I woke up. My wound had dried up and not so hurting. May be because was my birthday and I felt good. We had a leisurely morning until 9 am before leaving.
Today weather was a great difference from yesterday. It was a sunny day and I preferred a hot sunny day than a rainy day. The sunlight was the strong and shining directly on us mercilessly. Not only the sunlight was to our disadvantage, we rode against the strongest headwind in my riding history, estimated at least 15 km/h. The wind was so strong that many local cyclist had to push their bicycles when climbing a gentle slope. With the bright, glaring sun in our eyes all day, I was unable to view much of the countryside, which was less interesting anyway than the previous days. The road to Guilin was relatively flat and smooth except the last 6 km, which the road was under construction and we fought our way out from a heavy traffic jam.
Guilin, such a popular place, did not impress me as I entered the city after the first traffic jam that I encountered in China. Everywhere were under constructions and dust everywhere. Even the hotel I stayed had power failure and the nearby area had the same fate. I could not find a decent bicycle shop to fix up my bicycle and degreaser to clean the chain of my bicycle after visited a few 'big' bicycle shops.
We spent the afternoon visiting the unique tall narrow monolithic grayish limestone rock formation parks but the scenery was no match to the Yangshou scenery. As with all Chinese tourist attractions, one was never far away from someone selling something to eat or drink but the price always double than the street price. I enjoyed watching the tourists have fun dressing up in costumes, getting on horses and camels.
I celebrated my birthday in a Pub and Peter was so thoughtful and he bought me a birthday cake with candles lighted.
11 May 01 - Day 13 Long Shen 110 km
The bikeman had the toughest ride today as he rode under unfavourable conditions. To anticipate the terrain and long distance ahead. We started as early as 8 am. Soon after 10 km out of Guilin city, we rode under scorching sun, 50 km of road under construction with heavy traffic, we breathed in dust and black smoke from the construction trucks and busy buses going towards Long Sheng, some parts of the road were muddy and I had a fall again as my tyre got stuck. I got minor scratches on my right knee and mud all over my back. I hate to get dirty so I scarified drinking water and face tower to clean up the mess.
The scenery of some parts of the journey were worth head turning but I had eyes only for the road. We took more than 3 hour to clear this stretch. The last 50 km although not under construction but the road surface was rough with potholes everywhere and either riding uphill or downhill. Ascent was tough and as long as 6 km. Every stroke of pedaling hurt my unhealed hip wound. At its height, the plants along the road were changed from big leaf tropical plants to small leaf long bamboo trees. The descent was extremely dangerous, it was steep, narrow, s-turn, blind corners and very sandy at the corner, if not careful, might end up in the deep valley. The scenery was too beautiful and it helped to ease my pain. All the mountains were cultivated with rice terrace. The stream at the valley was very clear and shallow. There were anglers waiting for their catch of the day. We visited the Dragon Spine Rice Terrace and it was terrified. It is really fascinating the way the Chinese have cultivated entire mountains for growing food. No space is wasted.
We gave the famous Long Sheng hot spring a miss as we had to detour 45 km of hilly road to get there. I simply did not have the time, energy and mood to press on. The hills had finally flattened out and we hit a long stretch of gently rolling hills and a bit of a headwind. But this was still preferable to the mountains we had came through. We passed some young women singing in the fields, their voices sounded so fine.
The other sights that I enjoy seeing are the chariot riders standing on the horse-drawn wagons going at full trot down the road to work. On the way into town, several Chinese cowboys were herding about 20 ponies to market. The carrying of the dried corn stocks is another magical sight, particularly when it is a beautiful young woman doing the hauling. The bundles appeared so cumbersome, they were about 6- to 8-feet wide, 5-feet high and the woman were bent over at a 45-degree angle.
Today I really felt like I was mountain biking, although there was definitely more mountain than biking. The past few days had been the highlight of my China tour. I was glad I came up this way, love and hate the mountains. We took 7 hours of riding to complete it. My hip wound cracked and my skin was stuck to my cycling tights. It was painful when I removed the tights and when water touched the wound during shower. How did I complete the journey? I started to respect myself. If not for sheer stubbornness. I did not think I could complete it.
12 May 01 - Day 14 San Jiang 73 km
The ride to San Jiang was a piece of cake compared to yesterday, which would remain in my memory as one of the hardest rides in my life. Today's weather was no difference from yesterday, it was extremely hot and I could feel my exposed arms and legs were burning even after I applied SPF 30 sun block lotion. I started to worry about skin cancer after 3 days of long hours exposed to scorching sun.
The ride was strenuous again, but also quite exhilarating as well. The landscape continued to fascinate me. It was interesting to watch the landform change as the kilometers rolled by. We rode along a beautiful river with crystal clear water, which was entirely different from Li River and rivers along our way from Guangzhou, the river there were milky or muddy. Bamboo built rafts with shelter were found sailing along the river. I really enjoyed totally cruising along the river line and the river breeze. Some parts with tree shadow sheltered us from the blazing sun.
Although there were some hills to climb but compared to yesterday, it was peanut. How good if in the next few days, the riding conditions remained the same. One bad sign, the healing on my hip wound did not improve and it seemed getting worst.
It was once again proven the people here were indeed friendly and helpful. My phone battery was running low and my charger could not plug into the power socket here. I searched the whole town for an adaptor but to no avail. At last resort, I went to a phone shop wanted to buy a charger but the helpful sales lady there, offered to charge the battery for me free. Her kind gesture warmed my heart.
Language, other than Ta Lin and Her Zhou, which was close to Guangzhou, I could still communicate with the local in Cantonese. As we further into Guangxi, since Yang Shou, the people here spoke the Guangxi dialect. Of course, my Cantonese proficiency had no use here. But most people here could speak Pu Tung Hua (mandarin) and I had no problem communicating with the locals. As for food, there was not much of difference between Guangzhou and Guangxi province. I still enjoyed the food here.
13 May 01 - Day 15 Sanjiang
When I woke up at 8 am, I saw strong sunlight shinning through the window panes. It was another hot sunny day. As I got up from bed, I checked on my hip wound and it was wet again. I had exerted the wound and it was not healing. My hip wound had been giving me problem as the wet wound stuck to the dressings I put on. It was very painful every time when I changed the dressing and taking shower when the water touched wound.
We supposed to have easy riding, exploring Sanjiang for about 35 km on relatively flat road. To prevent further damaged to the wound. I decided to hire a motor-tricycle to travel around. I chose a young lady rider who was a non- smoker unlike most of the male riders. To be chauffeured around by a lady was to satisfy my male ego too. I was proven right, we got a friendly and safe rider whose surname was Luo.
As we were cruising along the stream to the famous Wind and Rain bridge or Cheng Yang bridge, we saw many kids at schooling ages, some of them were naked, swimming and catching fishes along the stream. It was Sunday, play time for kids and the stream was their natural playground. It reminded me of my childhood days that I used to swim naked in a man-made pond in my Kampong. It was universal, all kids like to play, the difference was some had it free and back to nature.
There were wind wheels along the stream propelling water to the cultivated plots. No land was wasted here and along the mountain slopes, rice terrace were on every possible slope. The stream was the lifeline of the villagers, they washed clothes, swim, their live stock- ducks and geese were raring in the stream and for watering their farms. We passed a few Dong minority villages and the Dong women here were still in their traditional dark blue and black dress. The scenic view along the way made the 45 minutes bumpy ride did not seem long and discomfort.
The popular bridge, a tourist attraction was worth the trip too. It was a well constructed 30 M long wooden bridge with shelter over the valley. The Dong minority women were scattered along the bridge selling handicrafts and souvenirs. Across the bridge, we visited a Dong village, which were built up by wooden houses. Among their buildings, I was attracted by the architecture of the Drum Tower, a place that was constructed by big tree trunks as the beams and timbers to make up the rest of the structure. The Drum Towers were the symbols of their villages and it looked like pagoda, which had a sharp top.
In the Drum Tower, there were long benches for the old folks, some were playing Chinese cards and chess games which I had never seen before. A sweet and cheerful 14 years old Dong girl, surname Yang had volunteered guiding us for the visit. The hospitable Dong people even offered us lunch. I had to decline politely as I was told that the Dong people like to offer their delicacy- the preserved sour meat to their guests. Some preserved meat kept as long as 10 years and they believe that the longer the meat preserved, the better it tastes. I had no courage to taste their delicacy.
 Wind and Rain Bridge |
 Drum Tower of Tong minority |
14 May 01 - Day 16 Cong Jiang 130 km
The morning sun was as strong as the last few days. The sun was getting hotter as we left and as expected, less than 2 km out of Sanjiang town, the road was unpaved which was mainly made up with granite chips, stones and some parts, red soil. Not to my expectation was, the road was extremely bumpy as potholes as big as wok, were everywhere. It was very dusty when speeding vehicles over took us and on-coming vehicles sped past us. The poor road condition restricted our speed, we could only move at 10-12 km/h. After traveling 50 km at tortoise speed, we had left Guaugxi province and entered the 3rd province of our journey - Guizhou, one of the poorest province in China.
The road was mostly flat with some climbing in between. Along the road, a big river with blue clear water and scenic view below. There were boat sailing on the river, some were fishing, some ferried passengers from one end of the riverbank to the other. Kids, geese and duck swimming, cloths washing and people bathing were the common sight along the river. The backward road and the beautiful scenery was a great contrast.
The mountains were almost entirely terraced for growing crops. I was really amazed at how the Chinese have managed to take mountainous terrain and turn it into productive land. Both side of the riverbank were villages dominated by mostly by the Dong minority and Miao minority as we were closer to Cong Jiang.
On the road, mainly buses and trucks, very often, we saw bull-cart and horse-cart carrying farm products. The Dong minorities were seen walking along this road, some with farming knifes, some carrying firewood and vegetables along the road under the scorching sun and dusty condition. There was hardly any shade along the dusty road and it was so hot towards noon that we had to rest for 2 hours to avoid heat exhaustion.
There were no town in between except a few villages and no support available and we had to depend on ourselves. I felt so helpless. There were no decent place for lunch along the way as expected. We had survived the journey with pre-packed buns and bananas and 4 bottles of water each.
It took us almost 12 hours to cover 130 km to reach Cong Jiang , a small town along the road and our pre-determined overnight point.
The areas we passed through today were virtually isolated from the rest of the world except for a daily bus and a few trucks. The accommodation was bad but my tiring body told me that I just need a hot shower and a bed. This was first time in my life traveling on an unpaved road for 130 km for 12 hrs and I was totally exhausted.
15 May 01 - Day 17 Rong Jiang 78 km
The journey of today was an extension of yesterday like the weather and so the suffering. Another 50 km of unpaved road to conquer but the terrain was very much hillier, the road condition was similar, if not worse. I was torturing myself riding on it. We had to pre-packed food and water to survive for the day like yesterday.
I got a very good morning workout as soon as we left Cong Jiang, barely 2 km on flat town road. As we were approaching the top of an alleviation of 700 M of an unknown hill. The sun just appeared. It was a beautiful natural painting with yellow and red skyline contrast to the greenery mountains with rice terrace. This was heaven to us but not to the Miao minorities who were walking along the hill, mostly in group, some looked like a family, they sure had something to carry, old or young, some women carried babies on their back and vegetables on baskets. Some men carrying firewood and some herded their cows or goats, they had to bear with dust generated from the road by the moving vehicles. They all looked dusty, tired and helpless in the early morning. They were on their ways to the Cong Jiang town selling their goods. This was the first time I could feel what was poor like in China.
We have entered another minority group area. The women's clothing style has changed dramatically. Now it is a striking blue base color with lots of embroidery and a flap behind from the waist to the knees. The women were also very attractive as well, though they were quite shy toward us. The women in the villages usually carried their babies in their backs into the fields for the day's work. Today we saw for the first time the babies bundled up in warm blankets and wearing hats.
My wound was hurting every time I exerted myself when pedaling uphill and the climbing seemed never ending. The last 30 km road was paved and we reached Rong Jiang as the sun set. After a tiring day and I needed time to treat my wound, we arranged to have dinner at 8 pm but we did not expect the hotel restaurants was closed by 8 pm. There were no other restaurant other than our hotel restaurant and we ended up at an unhygienic eating-house at the roadside. The crockeries had their edges chipped off, some were cracked with dirt, water used for cooking was in a dirty bucket, the meat was exposed with no refrigeration and flies were having their share of dinner, the food handlers with black dirt in their fingernails and their fingers were in contact with the cooked food when serving. My hunger was gone and lost my appetite, I had 2 big bottles of beer for dinner instead. This was the poorest place I had visited so far and I had seen the poor side of China. Indeed, a very good experience.
16 May 01 - Day 18 Kaili 173 km (By Truck)
My hip wound got worsen last night, yellow discharge was found coming out from the wound and common sense told me that it was serious enough warrant immediate medical attention. I told the helpful hotel staff that I needed to see a doctor and I was brought to a clinic, looked more like a run down medical shop, a few old lady patients were in waiting. While waiting for my turn, I saw an interesting picture of advertisement sign in front the doctor's office. It graphically showed the ailments that could be treated there; cuts, burns, ear infections (shown with blood coming out of the ear).
The doctor who was a hand shivering old man, in his 70-80, assisted by a man in his late 30, cleaned my wound with some unknown medicine and applied a layer of yellow cream on the wound and cover the wound with bandage. The old doctor suggested that I should have an injection and looking at the poor medical setting, I had politely declined. I was given some medications to clean and apply on my wound and some anti-biotic oral medicine. The doctor also advised me that I should not exert on my hip wound again and avoid water to the wound. This was the only clinic in town and only 26 yuans for the treatment including medicines.
The main street in town became a market which was a beehive of activity in the morning, the Dong and Miao minorities brought their farm products mainly vegetables, live stocks, tobacco and firewood here for sales. I was told that they had to walk as far as 10 km to be here as no public transport available. The people here used firewood as fuse for cooking.
Almost all the people were in the minority dress. The women were particularly interesting with large heavy earrings that caused their earlobes to droop. They also had a very distinctive hairstyle; their hair was wrapped in a bun and held in place with a comb attached to several white cords coming from the center of their head. I would have liked to photograph them, but an early attempt found them to be very camera-shy. This market town was very interesting and I would have liked to spend more time there, but we had a large crowd following us and it seemed best to move on.
The rain never stop since morning. The temperature was around 20C in the day. My wound condition disallowed me to torture myself further under the rain for 173 km. I rented a mini van for 400 yuans to take us to Kaili, which was not in the original plan. We changed plan because the road from Rong Jiang to Kaili was the best road. I had had enough of bad road. We left Rong Jiang after an early lunch at the hotel.
Although the road we took was the best, but the road surface was rough with potholes, sandy and muddy. It was another narrow mountain road, many blind corners to tackle. It was like the mountain road from Guilin to Long Sheng, if not worse. The road was very dirty due to the non-stop rain and I could not imagine if I had ridden on it.
We drove past many Miao villages and a few Yao villages along the way. We had a brief stop at a village eating-house along the way to ease ourselves. Unfortunately, I stepped on a pool of shit when I entered the eating-house dim toilet without light. I had to clean my shoes immediately and changed my footwear to slippers.
The scenery was good and past some great landscapes but I just had no mood to appreciate, rainy days always made me blue. The journey seemed very long, uphill then downhill and kept repeating. I only knew that we had crossed many mountains. It took us 6 hrs to reach Kaili. The weather was getting colder as we arrived and I felt that I was in Cameron Highland on a cold rainy December. We could see our breath. It was cold and damp; a light mist/rain prevailed and gray clouds hung low. Although I did not ride but I felt just as tired.
We checked in one of the best hotel in town to pamper ourselves, a 90 yuan room. After cleaned up with hot baths and treated my wound , we went into town. This is our first big town since Guilin and the first place that had a decent bakery since Guangzhou. So we pigged out on the baked goods and walked down the market street.
17 May 01 - Day 19 Kaili - Guiyang - Chengdu
Kaili was one of the major city in Guizhou and Miao was the dominating minority. I had no excitement to explore this place further. All I planned to do was to get to Chengdu, rest for 2 days to heal my wound and reunion with my wife. I packed up my bike in a wooden box at a shop in Kaili.
Peter had arranged to fly at 6:30 pm and we got a rented truck to take us to Guiyang airport. We left Kaili at 1 pm considering the land traveling time. Along the way, we had a very good lunch - river fish steam boat, a famous delicacy in Kaili.
After about 50 km on mountain road, we were on highway, we missed highway for almost 2 weeks since leaving Guangzhou.
The most significant event that occurred today was the very unfortunate broke down of the truck we rented. The highway drive was smooth for the first 100 km, about 25 km to airport, the truck we were in, broke down and after filling up water and 10-15 minutes later, we were able to move on. Barely less than 10 km to airport, the engine overheated again and this time wasted another 15 minutes before we could move on another 8 km. 2 km to airport, our truck broke down again. This time luck was not on our sides and the truck never got started again. Peter mounted on his bicycle to the airport to get rescue. Luckily, at the exit road to airport, we saw a van in waiting for someone with the driver was parking at a corner. The van driver willing to help us and we quickly transferred our luggages to the van and we arrived at the Airport at 6:15 pm. Fortunately, there was a flight delay, we still managed to catch the flight. The excitement was not over yet. I had to open up my boxed bicycle for custom check. What an exiting afternoon.
The flight we took was a small and noisy plane and almost took 2 hrs arrived at Chengdu. It was raining and the temperature was 17C, which caught me unprepared. Michel was there to receive Peter and after helped me check into hotel, they left for home.
It was a cold, rainy and lonely night and I had to hunt for food at 11 pm as I had only snack on the plane for dinner. This was my first meal in Chengdu and it was entirely different from the southern China taste.
Summary:
My cycling tour with Peter had ended after riding 1056 km in China. I was sad to end my cycling tour here. This trip had been very much an adventure. The cycling had been virtually blind with respect to topography. The set up of my bike was difficult to overcome the mountainous Southern China. I had under estimated the terrain and the road conditions. My injury forced me to change my plan to tour on a different mode. Given the opportunity, I would like to tour China again on a bicycle, maybe to ride from Guangzhou to Beijing in the near future.
Back to TopI took part in this Charity ride in Feb 2002 and my first ride in Thailand. This was jointly organised by the Thailand Cycling Club and Habitat For Humanity to raise fund to build houses for the poor people in Udon Thani. There were only two Singapore cyclists, Andy Wee and myself. The rest were cyclists from the Thailand Cycling Club.
17 Feb 02 Day 1 - Singapore - Bangkok - Korat
We arrived at Bangkok Airport as scheduled at 9:40 am (Bangkok time) and our bicycles also arrived without damages. This was the first time I checked in my bicycle in one piece without boxing. From the airport, we walked across the linkway to the train station which was about a few hundred meters away. Everything went on smoothly until we reached the train station. The express train that we planned to take was fully booked and we had to take the next available train leaving at 12:30 pm and almost 3 hours wait. I explored the possibility to take a coach or pick-up truck instead but was told that the coach had no compartment for bicycle and we wanted to take a pick-up truck but did not materialised. We were approached by a taxi driver who was in his 50', talked with alcohol smell, swore that his taxi could take 2 bicycles and 2 men. We declined his offer, not so much disbelieved him what he said but we did not want to risk our lives under the drunkard driver. We had no better choice but to take the train at 12:30 pm.
This was my second time at Bangkok since 1981 and I would like to see more about this country after 21 years. The weather was getting hotter as it approached noon and the heat became unbearable with my long sleeve T/shirt.
The train was a big disappointment. I had already expected the train was not air-conditioned and the real disappointment was that although we had paid 70 bahts for each bicycle to be on the train but there was no storage space. With the panniers fixed onto the bicycles, it was impossible to move up to the train and squeezed through the narrow train aisles. I had to remove my panniers from the bicycle and and left behind to my cycling partner, Andy to take care as he had found a hand-washing corner just sufficient space for his bicycle. I pushed my bicycle a few cars away and found a similar corner for my bicycle. Of course, I had to bear with some scratches on the bicycles as it rubbed against the hard surface of the washing basin when the train moved. My bicycle space was not exclusive as later, farmers and hawkers just dumped their goods against my bicycle. I just hoped that my bicycle frame would not dent.
The windows were wide open on both sides of the train and the clack train noise was loud. Everyone was either trying to sleep or staring at me but almost no one spoke. The train almost stop at every stations and there was continue flow of hawkers selling packet rice, tidbits, drinks, dried cuttle fish, barbecued meats or spring chicken and what not. Everything selling in the train seemed to have a standard price-10 Bahts which was very cheap. I had not been tempted by the cheap food and only ventured a bottle of mineral water to replenish the lost of fluid under the humid weather. The air blowing from outside the train was warm and it made most people in the train dozed off.
The train was full, mostly locals with a few western tourists. Actually the local passengers looked like young, sophisticated Bangkok city slickers. The scenery outside the train was not particularly interesting, just like what was along the Malaysia train lines, farm lands after farm lands and as flat as a bed for the first half of the journey. The paddy field had no crops as the harvest season was just over. It was endless dried field. The terrain was hillier in the next 100 km. The scenery never changed. The most disturbing experience was when we past by the burning field and no one in the train could escape from the punishing black smoke and ashes rushing into the train. The farmers were burning their field to fertile the soil. The slow moving and frequently stopped train coupled with the uncomfortable ride made the journey seemed never end. It was a long and boring train ride.
We spent 5 hours in this train and finally arrived. Our Thai co-ordinator, Mr Mongkol took us to a assembly place, looks like a school or camp. We were ushered to a bunk where could easily house 10-15 men and was told that this place was the accommodation for the night. I was both hungry and tired after the long train ride and had not taken lunch. I could not wait another 2 hours for the welcoming dinner. The Thai driver for this mission, Dumb took me to a nearby restaurant and with his help, I managed to get some decent dishes. After dinner, I was driven to a hotel to spend the night.
It was too early to turn in. I scouted around, there was no lounge in the hotel for a drink or 2. So I decided to explore the street nearby to find a decent place for beer. From the main road outside the hotel, I saw some blinkering lights about 1 km away. Without hesitation, I headed for the lights and found a pub look like a cowboy house. The waiters and waitress were all dressed like cowboys, cowgirls or red Indians. The bar was well decorated with cowboy stuff and the singers on stage, only sang country songs. I had 2 beers and fried chicken soft bone recommended by the sheriff, the manager of the cowboy bar, to go with the beer. I really enjoyed the stay in this cowboy bar as the service and music were good, the ambience was my taste and the snack was very tasty. If not taken the dinner earlier, I would like to have dinner here. I ended the day with some satisfactions.
18 Feb 02 Day 2 - Korat - Phimai 80 km
Today was the first riding day. I married up with the main body at 6:10 am. I was introduced to the organiser of HHFT, a middle-aged Thai women in her early 50 named Boots and her American husband named Rangsee. I was given the riding tights and a white T/shirt designed for this event. I needed the jersey pockets to put my essential items so I bought a HHFT jersey. Soon after changing into the HHFT riding gears. We started our journey at about 6:30 am. I noticed that other than Andy and myself were riding road bikes, the rest of the bikers were riding mountain bikes. That gave me the impression that the Thai people like mountain bikes and maybe, mountain biking.
We were guided to the heart of Korat city and there were about 30 International School students, in their teens, boys and girls, mostly westerners accompanied by a few male and female teachers. As usual, before starting the ride, the publicity stuff like photo taking and reporters' interviews and so on took place. We resumed our rides soon the publicity was over.
Soon we rode out of city, we were on a 12 km unpaved road. The ride on the country road was not a pleasure experience like the rest of the mountain bikers, as my bicycle thin tyres always got sucked into the soft soil. I was lagged behind by all the mountain bikers and eating dust generated by them. As soon as I got out of the unpaved road, I rode on the hard surface like a champion. We got breakfast at our first rest point after clocking about 35 km. The breakfast was some Thai meehoon stuff to go with some hot gravy. It was burning hot for me and I hardly ate anything. I did not have enough food and felt bad to raise my need.
The next part of the ride was on a well paved highway and the weather was extremely hot. With the advantage of my bike, I finished just behind Santi, a strong Thai mountain biker and Andy at the next check point. I was starved as I arrived. Soon everyone accounted for, we rode a short distance to a park, looked like a tourist attraction, with souvenirs stalls and food stalls around. The park were planted with aged Banyan trees that provided good shades for the picnickers.
We had our lunch at this park and lunch menu was roasted spring chicken with glutinous rice balls wrapped with fragrant pandan leave. The roasted chicken was served with a bamboo stick which pierced through the chicken. I had chicken in one hand and the rice balls in another and I totally enjoyed the lunch at this serene setting on a hot afternoon. I had a good time interacting with Santi and Suthichai exchanged ideas on bikes. They were two of the strongest Thai riders, both from the Thailand Cycling Club.
We rode a few km to Phimai town, our ending point for the day and visited a hostorical site of century old kingdom structures. Honestly, I was not particularly interested in ancient buildings.
At the end of the visit, we had 2-3 gentlemen withdrew from the ride, of whom, one of them was a wealthy native Chinese who was also the major sponsor for the ride. The bulk of the group checked into the Guest House and I preferred the privacy and comfort of a hotel room.
I met up with them at the Guest house for dinner later. The dinner was delicious but was too spicy for me and I did not eat much. Some of us also visited the night market after dinner but there was nothing interesting, just a normal night market that food stalls and essential items stalls lined the street. I found a good restaurant for supper at the main street. I had a satisfying meal with good cold beer to reward myself for a hard day ride.
 At Korat city before the ride |
 A park of Bayan trees |
 At Phimai with Andy |
19 Feb 02 Day 3 - Amphurpon 92 km
Today's weather was no different from yesterday. We had a much smaller riding group than yesterday with the whole of the International School people pull out from the ride for their own activities.
But we got some surprise guests joined us for today's ride; the Guest House people, a young man in his 20' and a 12 years old girl joined us for this leg of ride. The young man's fiancee who is also the Guest House manager and the young girl's mother and her younger brothers also followed in the support vehicles and providing their morale support. I admired the 2 new riders' courages as they were no seasoned riders and riding with low end bikes. I also had respect for the young girl's mother for allowing her daughter to skip school to join us. In Singapore, this would not happen. That was why I see the Thai children are happier kids than Singapores'. One more person I must salute was Santi, the strong and handsome Thai rider, claimed to have entered into 40', looked much younger than his age, who spoke good English, had provided support in whatever forms he could to the young girl through out the ride.
The ride in the morning was fantastic. We were mostly on the scenic flat village road with light traffic. After about 23 km, we came to a village to have our breakfast. The breakfast today was a world of different from yesterday. We got barbercued pork noodle, tasted like Chinese food, most important, not spicy at all. I also enjoyed a good interaction with Muo, a cyclist from Chiang Mai who used to organise cycling tours and an ex-national swimmer.
The village chief came to welcome us and we had photo taken together. The ride continued to be good despite the scorching sun. We had a long lunch break at a petrol station waiting for a guiding vehicle to the next destination.
The afternoon ride was even better than the morning ride. We had been to a village and visited the village Women' Club where the village women interact. We also rested at Pittayakom Secondary School and were warmly welcomed by the principal, teachers and students of the school. We were treated with snacks, fruits, hot and cold drinks. The Thai hospitality spoke of itself.
We finally ended our ride at a place looked like a community centre. There were full of mass physical activities, the women were having their aerobic dance to the rythem of the music and the man were playing either football or tennis. I was amazed with their healthy life style at this town.
We went to Amphurpon town, 2 km away from the Community Centre for dinner. I spend the night in a hotel in Amphurpon town and the rest spent the night in the Community Centre. This town was a dead town after 9 pm.
 Group photo at a village |
 With village women |
 At Pittayakom School |
20 Feb 02 Day 4 - Khon Kean 105 km
The weather was as humid as the last few days, in addition, we had strong head wind at 15 km/h. The ride was also just enjoyable like the last 2 rides. We had lunch break at a park planted with many bamboo trees after 65 km of riding. It was shaddy and there were some budda statues in this park. It was a good place to have lunch except the toilets. It was a long break and some riders put up their hammock and enjoyed their mid-day naps. Santi and Sompol entertained us with their flute.
Today, we had another support truck, driven by Kittikom, a gentleman from Trang, also a cyclist from Thailand Cycling club. He could speak good English and did not seem friendly like the rest when I first spoke to him.
The riders got to know each other better after 3 days' ride and one of the rider named Mani from Chiang Mai area, we rode together and he tailed me at gruelling racing speed for a 7 km stretch and that really pumped my heart hard under the scorching sun.
Andy got his flat tyre before arrived at the last rest point. The skillful Mr Ood replaced the punctured tyre in less than 5 minutes. Mr Ood, the supporting mechanic for the mission who had also supported several Singapore Bike Aid rides from Hat Yai to Singapore. An innovative and practical man who believes anything he needs for a bicycle, he fabricates. Amongs his innovations, he had made panniers which Andy had tested and found them light and practical.
We finally came to a church, our ending point and to stay at the dormitory, annexed to the church, for the night. It was a quite place and surrounded with plants. I love the big and beautiful sun flowers planted there. But I would like to see more about Thailand and requested to stay at Khon Kean town. With the help of Supee, a kind and helpful lady rider who was also one of the organiser of this ride, a nurse from Chiang Mai who managed to get Kittikom to drive me to Khon Kean town which was about 20 km away. From the body langguage, Kittikom was reluctant to drive me to town. I was also upset because I would not like to be driven by someone who was unhappy. I asked Kittikom straight on his face whether he was unhappy to drive me out. He replied negative and turned up we spoke frankly and we established better communication. He even called his friend to book a room at discounted rate for me. I checked into the Khon Kean Hotel, one of the best in town and the best hotel so far I had stayed for this trip. Kittikom stayed with his local friend who owned and a restaurant here, just a stone throw distance from the hotel.
I had dinner at the restaurant by Kittikom's friend (so sorry that I had forgotten his name). The restaurant served very good authentic Thai and Vietnamese food and this was the best meal for this trip and I totally enjoyed the dinner. I indulged myself at the hotel lounge and relaxed with sentimental Thai songs and wine. I really like to pamper myself this way after a hard day ride. I was wondering how the rest spent the night at the dormitory.
 At a church in Kon Kean |
 The beautiful sun flowers |
 Group Photo before the ride |
21 Feb 02 Day 5 - Kaosuan Khwang 82 km
I had few photos taken with the big and beautiful sun flowers before the ride. Today's ride continued to be enjoyable and more challanging. As we were riding towards north, the countryside road begins to undulate where the rolling hills appeared endlessly. Althogh tougher but not as boring as on flat road. After a few days riding together, we got to know each other better and we really enjoyed riding together.
After breakfast at a temple, I had a good ride with Santi and Sutichai. The morning ride was the fastest so far and we achieved average speed of 30km/h. The 4 of us, Santi, Suthichai, Andy and myself took turns to draft to fight the strong head wind. We rode like professional and leaving the peleton far behind us at our second rest point. We had good Thai desert at the second rest point and used the police station toilet opposite the rest point.
We had lunch break at a reservoir after 55 km of riding. It was a good choice to have lunch and rest over at this transquil setting. Most important to me, we have modern and clean toilets here although had to pay to use them. Just like the last 3 lunch breaks, it was a long break and most of the riders enjoyed their mid-day naps.
The afternoon ride continued to be enjoyable and towards the end, Oia got her bicycle chain malfunctioned and with Ood around, the bike was fixed and Oia could continue her ride. Our ending point for today was in village and we got royalty welcome from the villagers. Dinner for the night was a feast and I love to eat the roast chicken, specially prepared for us. We had beer too.
Santi, sutichai and Nuay left the group on a night train after dinner. Santi and Sutichai joined a Pattaya Ride organised by Thailand Cycling Club while Nuay took the train back home to Bangkok. Nuay, an interesting man in his late 50' who had tattoos all over his body. The tattoos on his body were not the typical picturesques but looked like buddism talisman or reincarnation. I was told that he was a retiree, always made cycling trip between Bankok and Korat, to spend times with his 2 wives at these 2 places, like to ride in the middle of the night. He had a iron rod kept in the hollow of his straight handle bar. The rod was used to beat the unfriendly dogs.
I sent them off at the train station and I noticed that bikes could be stored into the baggage car, just behind the engine. We should had done the same when we took the train from Bangkok to Korat.
First time of my life that I stayed in a Monasty and also the first night to sleep with the cycling entourage. We all slept in the open space in front of the budda statues on hard mattressess and pillows. The pillows look like a loaf of bread, but not as soft as bread, instead, hard as wood. Coupled with the noisy ceiling fans and the snooring, made me a sleepless night.
 At a reservoir |
 Mr Ood washing hands after fixing Oia's bike |
 With Santi, Nuay and Suthichai |
22 Feb 02 Day 6 - Udon Thani 93 km
Today's ride was not so enjoyable like the last few days not so much of the undulating roads, the stronger head wind or the humid weather, it was because we were riding on highway most of the time and nothing scenic. The good thing about todays' ride was the super highway, wide and well paved. Santi told me to take care of the lady riders last night, and I had in fact, drafting for Shanya and Oia, both strong lady cyclists were also from the Thailand Cycling Club.
We reached Udon Thani city after 75 kms and gathered for lunch at a big petrol station. After a long lunch break, our ride were escorted by Thai police, accompanied by the International School cyclists who were with us on first day's ride and hundred of local cyclists from all walks of life, men and women, young or old. Reporters from the press and camera crews taking pictures on us from the moving jeeps and we were entertained by a live band playing funky Thai music on a moving truck. The convoy was guided into a ceremony ground where tents and Public Address system were set up. The surounding areas were decorated with coloured flags and balloons. Speeches were delivered by the mayor and the organiser for the event. It was like a funfare.
This was not the end, we pedaled another 11 kms to a village to witness the handing over ceremony of a house, sponsored by HHFT, to the new proud owner. We finally came to a dormitory, an annex to a church, our night accomodation. We were told to gather around at the basket ball court for the night ceremony and dinner. I had enough of such bureaucracy and regime and enough was enough. I wanted to have some personal space and to eat something I wanted to eat. So with the help of Mr Ood, accompanied by Shanya and Oia. We went to Udon Thani city to explore.
We pampered ourselves in the most prestigeous hotel in Udon Thani, Grand Royal hotel for Dinner. We had wine, western food and songs entertained by the beautiful young lady singers. To me, a cyclist should not be just eat, sleep and cycle. Cyclists should have the basic right to choose what they wanted to do after a hard day ride.
 Riding in Udon Thani |
 Handing over of house ceremony |
 Packing up after last ride |
23 Feb 02 Day 7 - RangSit District In Bangkok
We left Udon Thani at 4:30 am in the comfort of a van and it was expected to take 7-8 hours to reach Bangkok. There were 5 of us in the van. Other than myself and Andy, the rest were Thai friends. Shanya, the youngest rider in the group, Sompol Pumimart, a 68 years old retired teacher who stayed in Trang, southern Thailand, the oldest rider in the group and one of the strongest, Mr Ood, the handy man and also, the van driver.
After about 3 hours drive, we stopped over at Phimai for breakfast at my favourite restaurant. At the restaurant, I called Vincent, my ex-colleague who was working at Bangkok Ambassy, to book 2 rooms for me and Andy. Andy changed his mind and preferred to be on his own. For that, I felt so sorry to call Vincent to cancel the booking since Shanya, the kind and hospitable young lady, would play host during my stay in Bangkok and generously offered her place for accommodation.
The drive to Bangkok on the highway was smooth and we had 2 breaks along the way. Shanya took over the driver seat after lunch at an avocado farm restaurant. We also visited a cave which had century old painting on its wall. I saw an unborn baby corpse preserved into a bottle, to be used for prayer by monks. It was disgusting to me.
We arrived at Shanya's resident at Rangsit District at 3 pm, much longer time than I expected. Shanya's home, a 2-storey terrace house with 2 bedrooms at the 2nd storey. The ground floor was well decorated with some cowboy stuff. It was indeed confirmed that the Thai, like the America wild west cultures. The weather in Bangkok was much humid and the bedrooms in Shanya's house was hot like an oven. She insisted that I stayed in the master bedroom and when she changed the bedsheet, she perspired and wet like just coming out from the pool. I was really touched by her hospitality and friendliness. Andy also gladly settled at the hall at the ground floor.
Shanya, has spotless fair complexion, her shoulder length flowing hair matches well with her petite frame, looked much younger than her age of 35. She covered herself all the way from head to toe, leaving her eyes uncovered when she rode. Like the muslim women in the middle east wearing the face veil. She got an innovative way to protect her from the sun. That was using a modified spagahtti strip bare back girl skirt to cover her head so that other than her eyes, her neck and face are well protected from the burning sun and yet well ventilated inside. But not to be deceived by her feminine look, when she rode, she was as tough as man, if not more aggressive. Her favourite verb; 'down hill', she shouted as she charged down during descents. She looked entirely 2 person when returned to city. When she was not in her riding suits, she was a sexily dressed lady with good taste and colour sense.
She drove us for dinner in her hatch back 2 doors sports coupe. she was also a daring and fast driver like the way she handled her bike. She got good estimate and precision in her driving. Veering in and out on the busy Bangkok roads was an excitment. She was the first lady I came across with good driving skill.
Shanya took us to a crowded place, with the capacity of at least 50 tables for dinner. Half of this restaurant was floating restaurant and was full of diners. We wanted a table on a boat but were fully booked. We settled at a table near the performance stage where young lady singers sang sentimental Thai songs. Andy got his bicycle sold to a male dentist, a native Chinese who is Shanya's friend at the dinner.
We went to Khao San Road after dinner. This street is like the night market I had seen in Taipei. A combination of food stalls and merchant stores in a long narrow Asian street. It offered economical stuff and had all the services travellers needed: travel agencies, international phones, email, visa services, English language bookstores, western food restaurants. Lots and lots of budget travelers hotels here--especially a lot of Westerners in their early 20s with nose, nip, tongue, eyebrow and every other conceivable piercing. Tattoos too. Sidewalk stands made laminated I.D. cards for 'journalists' and 'students' (just supply the passport photo) for just 50 baht. I counted in more than a dozen internet cafes up and down the street. It had been a very fulfilling day, travelled alot and had seen alot. We ended the night with high notes.
24 Feb 02 Day 8 - Bangkok - Singapore
At 9 am the next morning, Shanya took us for a morning drive after settled her business (she was running a small business-selling ice-cream). We came to a park, a project initiated by the Thai queen. It had a big handicraft centre. After lunch at this place we still had time for shopping before we flew back home. Shanya took us to a shopping mall near the Airport and I was amazed that Bangkok's malls are some of the best in Southeast Asia. They were spacious, orderly, not overly crowded and had places to sit down. We went to a shop called COUNTRY SHOP, which had cowboy and Red Indian stuff. It was indeed confirmed again that Thai people like the Wild West culture.
When we arrived at the Airport, Mr Ood was there to send us off. I was so touched that Mr Ood had cycled in the Bangkok busy road for 30 km to bid farewell. The Thai hospitality was something so special and so warm.
I felt sad to leave this beautiful country and I really love the Thai people, so friendly, outgoing, courteous and helpful. Whenever we reached a destination, we were always welcomed like royalty. Whenever we past a village, the friendly Thai would wave and said 'Sawadee' to us and the children would sometimes, ran out from schools or their home to give us the friendly yells. The drivers in Thailand. Actually they treated us quite well, often-honking two short beeps to say "hello" or giving us the thumbs up. Almost always they gave us a lot of room. Most of the road that we had pedaled was as good as those in Malaysia, if not better.
The only regret I had was that the trip was too short and 5 days of riding could not satisfy my appetite for riding. I would be happy to cycle on Thailand road again in the near future.
I celebrated my 48 years old birthday with a long solo ride to Bangkok. This is my first self supported solo ride. I was motivated to ride to Bangkok after my Feb 2002 ride in Thailand. 20 days of long distance riding covered a distance of more than 2400 km. The experience gave me great satisfaction and sense of achievement.
10 May 03 - Day 1 Singapore - Tioman
Cycling Distance : 28 km
Andy turned up punctually and after bode farewell to Judy. Andy rode together with me to Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal. Andy, my cycling friend and we had cycled together in Thailand in Feb last year.
There were not many tourists at the terminal. It was a world of difference compared to May last year when I took ferry to Bintan Island for a cycling trip where golfers and holidaymakers flooded the whole terminal. The SARS epidemic really affected the tourism industry badly. As there were much fewer tourists, checking in was hassle-free.
I decided to take a ferry out of Singapore to Tioman to start off the trip for a few reasons. This was chiefly because I planned to ride from east coast of Malaysia to Thailand as I had pedaled the west coast from Penang to Singapore in Jun 99. Secondly, I had also cycled from Singapore to Mersing and vice versa together with Andy in Oct 2000 and I would not wish to repeat the same journey again. We took 4 days to complete the circuit and if I have to ride the same journey, from my home to Mersing was about 170 km, to complete it in a single day with rolling hills terrain on a loaded bicycle was definitely not a good start. I also would not want to stop my first destination at Kota Tinggi as I had made a few short trips there recently. Most importantly, I was also told that Tioman was great and I had not been there before. It seemed that taking the ferry was a great way to kick off the journey.
There were less than 10 passengers taking the ferry, Penguin Tioman. The South China Sea was calm so the sea ride was smooth. It took about 4.5 hours and it was 1 pm as I arrived. As expected, all the tourists had to take temperature before the immigration officers stamped the passports.
The weather was fine until the arrival at Berjaya Jetty. It was drizzling as I stepped out from the ferry. At the end of the jetty, Berjaya Resort Hotel and luxury hotels with spa were all lined up to welcome the arrival. Since I was on a budget tour, I would not indulge myself into the lavishly decorated hotels that cost 300-400 ringgits a night. I rode my bike down the road along the coast to see more about the island and at the same time to scout for accommodation that fit into my budget. As I rode, I noticed that tall, jagged, jungle-covered mountains sit right in the middle of the Island. As soon as I lost sigh of the resort hotels, I climbed 3 steep but short hills. After the last roller coaster descent, I came to Tekek village, I rode past Police Station, a few mid range resort, Tekek Jetty, airfield and Information centre. I crossed altogether 3 wooden bridges and finally, I reached a place called Mango Groove where the paved road ended. Tioman Island had less than 6 km of tarmac road.
I detoured back and with the help from the friendly local, I settled down at the Monte chalet in Tekek village and paid 50 ringgits for a night. This place fit into requirements, the price was right, air-conditioned with attached toilet. To my delight, there was a running tap with hose at the doorstep; I could wash my bike with ease. I read from the map that the jetty that I landed was at the southwest bay where the high-end accommodation was. There was another jetty in the northwest bay, called Air Batang and was told by the locals that there was no vehicle access road between the southwest bay with the northwest bay. To link up these 2 jetties, either by sea or have to climb steep, uneven steps and through the jungle trail. I did not venture considering the wet weather and 20 kg of bike and luggage to carry.
Tioman, a paradise for diver and anglers where accommodations that fit into different tourists, crystal clear water, pristine and quiet beaches and cheap and good food. I spent RM $4.50 for a plate of fried rice with fried egg and a cup of tea. My dinner although at RM$17 but I had it in a resort restauran.
Other than the disturbing rain, I had a fall when I rode to the Monte chalet. There was a stretch of about 150 m of muddy road leading to the chalet. Just as I arrived at the sandy grounded chalet, the harden patch suddenly turned into soft sand pool and my thin tyre was sunk into it. I was too late for me to disengage my clipped pedal and I fell to my right. Fortunately, I fell onto the soft sand pool and no damaged to the bike and I had only a slight abrasion on my right knee.
11 May 03 - Day 2 Mersing - Nenasi 108 km
Altitude: 300 M
I left Monte at 7:15 am and headed to the jetty. When I arrived, a middle-aged Malay man asked me where would I be going. He told me that he was the agent for speed boat, the next speedboat would be arriving at 8 am, the boat fare was RM$35 and it took 1.5 hours to reach Mersing. No question asked, I told him to reserve a seat for me and would be back after breakfast.
The boat did not arrive at 8. Waiting at the jetty for the boat was not entirely a waste of time. I enjoyed watching the beautiful coastline, schools of fishes in various colour and sizes swimming in the crystal clear water under the jetty. The were also 2 diving boats moored at the jetty and by 8 am, about 20 young divers, men and women, mostly Chinese and a few Westerners in their 20'-30' started streaming in. The ladies started removing their clothes and revealed their sexy bikini. I would miss this beautiful sight if the speedboat arrived on time.
At 8:35 am, the speedboat with twin 200 horsepower out-boat-motor arrived, already had several people on board. There were 6 passengers including myself at Tekek jetty. I piled my bike at the bow and since there was nothing to secure my bike, I sat at the bow to hold onto my bike in case it dropped. I was not as comfortable as those sitting in the cabin. The boat zipped down the west coast of Tioman Island stopping at several jetties, taking on passengers. There were few jetties in Tioman and the boat started from the North Bay, the Batang jetty. By the time picking up passengers at the last jetty, the cabin was full and some passengers joined me at the bow. Most of the passengers were local tourists.
The speedboat arrived at Mersing, unexpectedly, less than 1.5 hour.
I started off from Mersing at 10 am. As I rode out of the town into highway 3, I saw a big road sign: 38 km to Endau, 65 km to Rompin and 150 km to Pekan. I decided to stop over at Endau for lunch but had not decided where was my destination for the day, Rompin was too near but Pekan was too far. I had no confidence to ride 150 km as in recent months, the further I had ridden in a single day was about 100 km and was without 10 kg of load. So I told myself: Let's listen to the body and lead by my heart. The first 38 km to Endau was all rolling hills. Just like the road between Kota Tinggi to Mersing. My altitude meter measured between 300-338 meters. I rode non-stop to Endau and I was starved before had my lunch at noon. I spent less than half an hour for a lunch break as I figured out, if I had to ride to Pekan, I needed 7 hours of riding and I really had to ride hard to reach Pekan before dark.
After Endau, the road became almost completely flat. If not restricted by the strong head wind, I should be able to attain 25 km/h. I rode past Rompin town and 68 km had been ridden, my lunch that I took had used up and my burning buttock told me that I needed to top up carbohydrate. I stopped at a roadside Malay food stall and I was pleased I made a right decision. I met a Malay man customer at the stall who spoke good English. He told me that 40 km down the road, there was a fishing village called Nenasi where motel was available. I spend RM$1.50 for a bun and a cold ice tea with a good piece of information. For the last 40 km, I was battling sore buttock, aching lower back, neck, shoulder, toes and from nowhere, the hidden sun suddenly appeared, otherwise, cloudy most of the day. The heat and fatigue really slowed me down.
The scenery: before Endau, mainly oil palm plantation and after that, tropical trees and Malay villages. At least the road was flat and traffic was light. Now and then I heard scrambling in the trees along the road. I could see lots of monkeys swinging in the branches. The road kills in Malaysia highway was a common sight. I had seen dogs, cats, chickens, snakes, iguanas, pangolins and and even birds flattened and mauled to various states. The smell of dead animals was awful mixing with the hot wind. Today, on the way to Endau, I had monkeys added into the list.
By the time I arrived at Nenasi motel, it was almost 4 pm and I spent almost 5 hours on the saddle and pedaled over 108 km. The motel was a single storey wooden building along the riverbank, with only 7 rooms and the only accommodation in this small fishing village. There was no air-conditioner but with ceiling fan and attached toilet. I paid only RM$30 for the room. I had my shower and washed my soiled cycling gears immediately checked into the motel, so that I could use the scorching sun to dry up my laundry. I only managed found a Malay food stall nearby and settled the only food sold, mee goreng for dinner. It did not taste good even I was dead hungry. The mee goreng did not fill my stomach and I bought a bunch of banana and I took 5 straight away. By the time I finished my dinner, my laundry was almost dry. It rained at 10 pm and I had natural air-conditioner for the night.
12 May 03 - Day 3 - Kuantan 94 km
Total: 202 km
Altitude: 330 M
I got up early to beat at least some of the heat. Unfortunately, Malaysians would not generally get up that early. So after an unsatisfying look around town for an open food stall or restaurant, to my disappointment, my effort was in vain. My only source of energy-2 bananas left over from last night.
I was on the road again at 8 am. My immediate objective: non-stop cycling to Pekan and stop over for breakfast. My destination for the day: Kuantan.
The road continued to be flat and it was cloudy and cooling at 22 C. The air was fresh and hardly seen any vehicle on the road. The only disadvantage was the strong head wind, at some part of the journey; the wind was so strong that I was struggling to maintain 16 km/h. The scenery was not particularly interesting and occasionally got a glimpse of the sea. My ache and pain appeared after 30 km of riding and first time experienced left knee aching. The 2 bananas that I took had used up long before that and I was really hungry. I spend exactly 2 hrs to reach Pekan and when I spotted a hygienic looking roadside Malay food stall, without hesitation, I stopped for my deserving break. I had 2-roti prata, a plate of fried meehoon with egg, a bun and 2 milk tea. The food was good especially the roti prata and only at RM$4.50. Suddenly, I became the centre of attention and everyone curiously looking at me. I was the only Chinese customer and they never seen a hungry Chinese man like me. I had a long 45 minutes break.
To justify for the good food and the long break, I cycled non-stop for the next 50 km. The first 20 km was alright but the pain and ache re-visited me again, especially the buttock was burning and my left knee was aching. I was very tempted to take a break but my stubbornness pressed me on. The head wind became stronger and my speed dropped like the recent stock market. 20 km away from Kuantan, I was baptisted by the scatterred shower. I reached Kuantan at 1:30 pm and spend total 4.5 hrs on the saddle. This pace of ride was fast as I had only a break in between.
I settled at a RM$30 a night cheap hotel called G hotel, in the middle of Kuantan city. The owner of the hotel was friendly, the room was big and I like the provided pail as it helped my laundry.
This was my 3rd time in Kuantan. The first was in the early 80' and the second time was in Dec 99. Both holidays spent at the beach resorts. This time I gave the beach a miss and stayed in the city. After washed up, I explored the nearby shopping mall- Kuantan Parade and found a cyber cafe. I down loaded the digital photos and sent to my family, friend and colleagues. I picked up some medications to treat my sore buttock and the right knee wound sustained at Tioman.
I had enough of Malay food but I could not find decent Chinese food. I had pizza and salad at the Kuantan Parade.
I had not decided where was my next destination as the only city - Kuala Trengganu, was 209 km away. I was too tired to think.
13 May 03 - Day 4 - Paka 111 km
Total: 313 km
Altitude: 350 M
It was indeed confirmed that the pace of life in east coast of Malaysia was much relax. I wanted to have breakfast before I started my ride, as I did not want to suffer riding with empty stomach like yesterday morning. I only managed to get my breakfast at 7:30 am as the Chinese coffee shop opposite the hotel only got food ready then.
I set off at 8:00 am and headed to Kuala Trengganu direction. The traffic in Kuantan city was relatively heavy and it was humid at 26 C. I rode through a light industrial strip for about 15 km north of Kuantan and had lost my way into the industrial park. I made 2 km detour and back to Highway 3 again. After the industrial area, all the way to Cherating were Malay villages. The kampongs (villages) on this stretch consisted of simple rectangular wooden houses on stilts three feet above the sandy ground.
I had my first rest after 37 km of riding when I spotted a coconut juice stall and I needed a rest to cool off my tearing buttock. My left knee gave me less problem after I adjusted my saddle half an inch higher. There were fungus surrounding my ass and groin. It was burning when I washed it with water, just like abrasion. I experienced it before when I had long ride and when my cycling short got wet. I hope it would be cured and would not hinder my ride.
After a good 20 minutes break, my next plan was to reach Chukai (Kamaman) for lunch. Along the way, I cycled past Cherating where the famous resorts were. After riding 55 km, I rode into Trengganu state and another 6 km, I arrived at Chukai. I found a good Chinese restaurant called Ah Liat Seafood and I met two customers there and had a long talk. One of them was Phua, a local and a stout looking Chinese man with mustard who is in his mid 50. He had no fingers and I guessed probably due to accident caused his 10 fingers. He also claimed he got artificial leg which was covered in his long pant. Another man was a British named Paul who is in his mid 50-early 60, was a good friend of Phua. They were having beers when I arrived.
We had a long talk and I enjoyed the conversation. They also told me that about 50 km down the road, there would be a town called Paka where accommodation was available. This was the longest lunch break and I spent 1.5 hrs there. Partly due to the good conversation and partly, to cool my buttock and to avoid the scorching mid noon sun.
I left Chukai almost at 1 pm and the temperature was 38C. It was blazing hot and I felt that I was baking. After 11 km of riding, I felt both hungry and pain. When I saw a row of stall selling bamboo glutinous rice. I stopped and had one. The glutinous rice was filled into the bamboo and cooked with wood fire. It was good and gave me energy to complete the later part of the journey.
I rode another 21 km that had done 93 km total and came to a town called Kerteh and I stopped at a Chinese minimart. I had 2 ice-cold sports drink, the best tasting thing in a hot afternoon. The next 18 km to Paka, I was crawling like a snail. I could only rode 15 km/h, blamed it to the strong head wind the pain in my ass. I was really testing my threshold of pain and I fully understood the true meaning of ' Pain in the Ass '. The road scenery was boring, towards the last 10 km to Paka, both side of the road were all refinery industry where Petronas had its head office there.
The road was not as flat as yesterday, mostly flat but with some long and gradual climb, especially after Chukai.
After a long, hot and painful ride, I finally arrived at Paka at 4:15 pm and spent 5 hours and 45 minutes on the saddle. Today's ride was very much slower especially towards the second half of the journey. Paka, a small town with an unusual high population of Indian. I spent some effort and got this budget hotel named Santong for RM$30 a night. After washed up, I walked for 1 km around town and could not find any Chinese food. What else, Malay food again.
14 May 03- Day 5 - Trengganu City 100 km
Total: 413 km
Altitude: 375 M
I pampered myself with 10 hrs of sleep. Anyway, why bother to wake up early when there was no food to get? After the morning fix, I left Paka at 8:30 am.
My objective for today was very clear: to reach Kuala Trengganu. The weather was cooling and after less than 10 km ride, it started drizzling and all the way to Kuala Trengganu. Honestly, I hate to ride under the rain as I found water splashing onto me very irritating and hate to get dirty. The only advantage of riding under rain was that the body would not get heated up. The scenery and road condition was an extension of yesterday, Malay villages, mostly flat road with occasion long and gentle slopes, got to see the beach sometime. The traffic was heavy after 10 am as it was public holiday and more cars on the road.
I took advantage of the cool weather, past Dungun, Rantau Abang, the famous Turtle Town. Sea turtles come to the beach here at night to lay eggs (in May). I stopped at the police station at Merchang after 59 km of riding. I had to stop because my bladder had over its maximum holding capacity. I could not find a toilet until I saw the police station. That was the cleanest toilet on the road that I had used on the road. I rewarded myself for a 20 minutes break for riding non-stop for the longest distance so far. Frankly, my ass really hurt and I had to lift my buttock off the saddle every few minutes. My military training had taught me how to bear with pain, cope with pain and live with pain. I was really proud of myself for achieving 59 km with no rest and my threshold for pain.
I rode another 24 km and arrived at Marang. My breakfast of 2 gardenia buns had long used up and I needed to refill. Guess what I ate? Malay food again, of course. I had yet to see a Chinese since I left Paka.
The next 17 km to Trengganu was nothing after replenished energy. I reached Trengganu Hotel Mutiara just before 2 pm and I had been on the saddle for 4 hrs 25 minutes. I achieved 22.7 km/h, the fastest for the last 4 days.
Mutiara Hotel, a middle class hotel in the centre of the city and RM$55 a night and the most comfortable one I had stayed for the last few days. I had a lot of washing to be done caused by the rain and I took almost an hour to clean up the mess, including myself.
As soon as I finished all the washing, I walked to the nearby street to look for a cyber cafe and I found one. No problem to down load the photo but I could not access to singnet. The helpful Chinese girl, named Jaychyi manning the cyber cafe offered her email address to send out the photos. I was more than happy to accept.
This was the 2nd time that I had been to Trengganu. The first time was in Dec 99 on a driving holidays with my 2 sons. When I saw Seri Malaysia Hotel, the hotel that I stayed last time, it reminded me the good time that my sons and I spent together, the same weather, non-stop rain. No more Malay food for dinner. But could not find Chinese food so I ate pizza again.
15 May 03- Day 6 Kota Bharu 169 km
Total: 582 km
Altitude: 400 M
Yes. I did it. I made it to Kota Bharu, a 169 km ride from Trengganu city. Although not the longest distance I had cycled in a day in my cycling history but it was the longest distance I ever cycled in a day with 10 kg load. It just fell short the longest distance of 175 km that I did in Jun 99 from west coast Malaysia, Muar to Skudai, but that was without load. This personal record was more respectful than the 175 km ride.
It was never in my plan to make it to Kota Bharu today. It was a long, hot and pressurised ride. Actually I wouldn't had ridden the whole day. I left Trengganu city rather late, at 9:00 am, without breakfast. It was because I did not sleep well last night and woke up at almost 8 am. I just wanted to ride 107 km to Jerteh where I was told accommodation was available. I set my pace to reach Jerteh by 3 pm. So I took my first rest after 33 km of riding and though of having breakfast when I saw a roadside stall. To my disappointment, the food was not ready and only tea was ready. Fortunately, I had bought a roll of Orei biscuit so my breakfast was milk tea with Orei. At the 35 km point, I saw a split road to Lake Kenyir and that reminded me the driving trip with my 2 sons and the Lake Kenyir experience. I had never explored the road beyond this point.
The Orei biscuit that I took was all gone long before my lunch point at Permaisuri, by then, I rode 65 km and another 42 km to Jerteh. I left Permaisuri at almost 1 pm. I gave myself another break at a petrol station with a fridge full of cold drinks, for a cold bottle of sports drink, the best reward in a hot afternoon, after I cycled 85 km as the weather was getting very hot at 36C just before lunch.
I reached Jerteh at 3:15 pm, a grungy little town, after some effort to search around the whole town for hotel. There was only a hotel ( Nazalin hotel) in this town and the room condition was bad. No attached toilet, no window, the bed sheet was stained, the partition walls were wooden planks and the room was smelly. The worse accommodations that I had seen in Malaysia. I decided to ride all the way to Kota Bharu for a better place to sleep. By the time I left Jerteh, it was already 3:45 pm and I had 60 km more to ride. I had to complete the distance before dark. If my average speed was 20 km/h and I needed 3 hrs to complete and it would be 6:45 pm then. I pressed on and it was the longest ride without rest so far. Fortunately, the road all the way to Kota Bharu was flat and the heat had gone after 5 pm. I reached Kota Bharu almost 6:30 pm. The traffic in Kota Bharu was heavy and the roads were not so organised like Kuala Trengganu. Looking for hotel was not easy. I wanted to reward myself with a high-end hotel called Perdara but was fully booked. So I settled down at a guesthouse named Irama Timor nearby Perdara hotel so that I could get hotel food conveniently. I had steak later at the hotel. When I checked into the guesthouse, I had spent almost 8 hours on the saddle and completed 169 km.
When one put under dire strait, things would be made to happen.
Overall the road condition was similar to the last 2-3 days, mostly flat with occasion long gentle slope. The scenery: the first 40 km, oil palm plantation and the last 40 km, first time I saw some paddy field on the east coast. More cows on the road and Malay villages in between. There were also a lot of roadside stalls selling watermelons and pineapples. This stretch was more rural.
I hardly met a Chinese, for that matter, an Indian along the way since I left Kuala Trengganou.
16 May 03 - Day 6 Sungai Golok 42 km
Total: 624 km
Altitude: 425 M
This morning I got up unusually late at 7:30 am. It was probably I slept late last night and the yesterday's ride had over exhausted myself, which my body needed a longer rest to recover. I had a great breakfast at the nearby Perdara hotel. It was the best breakfast.
I got my first flat tyre this morning. No, it should be yesterday evening. I discovered my rear tyre pressure low and I suspected that it was a puncture. When I removed the tyre, as suspected, there was a 3 mm long needle like sharp object pierced through the inner tube. No wonder when I rode to Kota Bharu yesterday evening, I felt soft on the rear wheel.
I had decided that today to be an easy day. After 5 days of intensive riding especially yesterday's ride. It really battled me out of shape. I needed time to recover and re-compose myself before embarked my odyssey in Thailand. There would be more challenges ahead as I would face language problem and into a territory with uncertainty.
I started off at 10:30 am, not so much that I was tired. It was because I got engaged with a good conversation with Norddin, the owner of the Guesthouse that I stayed. He told me that he was previously working in Trengganu city in the financial industry. He quitted his well-paid job because his only son (he got 3 other daughters) was ill with heart problem. However, he could not save his son and passed away 3 years ago. When he said that, I could see tears in his eyes. He was a nice man and really took good care of his guests. He gave me very clear instruction on how to get to Thailand, just followed Rantau Panjang direction. For that, I had no problem to get to Thailand.
When I left for Thailand, the temperature was already at 34C and as I progressed, the temperature progressed too to 37c. Fortunately, some part of the road was shady and the road was flat. I saw more paddy fields and more cows and more people selling watermelons and pineapples along both sides of the road. It was a good ride and I was riding slowly and to enjoy the scenery.
At 12:30 pm, I arrived at the border. The immigration process was hassle-free and it was the first time I had crossed the Thai border on the surface instead of by plane. As I entered, I saw a big road sign, Bangkok: 1250 km, the challenge was ahead.
Getting a hotel room was much easier than in Kota Bharu. All the hotel were centralised at Chuen Makka road except Genting Hotel, a posh looking hotel, should be the best in town, at the main road after immigration. I wanted to check into Merlin hotel but was fully booked (what was the occasion?) and finally checked into City hotel. When I walked along Chuen Makka road in the later part of the day, I counted at least 10 hotels along this road. There were also at least 20 pubs with young Thai ladies attracting customers, surprisingly, a big Chinese Temple and a Teochew clan association were also found along this road. All lives and activities were all crowding along Chuen Makka road and its side roads, shops, police station, wet market, school and roadside foodstalls. I had my first beer at the hotel after 6 days. I could not find beer once I entered into Trengganu state.
Here I closed my chapter In Malaysia and written below were the general impression on the ride.
The people here were friendly enough, and often waved and said a cheery hello especially the kids. They never failed to answer when asked for road direction. The drivers here, by and large, were more patient than drivers back home. Some would give Thumbs up for encouragements. The truck driver would horn to warn his coming. The road condition was generally good except some manhole cover, the grill gaps were too wide that only motorcycle tyre could past through. Cyclists have to watch out for these manholes. The cycling lane was wonderful and mostly in superb condition except some was covered with sand and some were rough.
There were many bridges to clear where rivers flow below. The safest way was to ride fast over the bridge and when big truck was just behind, give way!
Food; mostly Malay food except in city where Chinese and western food were available. In villages or small town, the houseflies would like to taste your food first.
17 May 03- Day 8 Narathiwat 67 km
Total: 691 km
Altitude: 450 M
I started off my journey late at 9 am after my hotel breakfast, considering the distance today to Narathiwat was less that 70 km and would have no problem to arrive there by noon. The ride to Narathiwat was hot. The sun was burning soon I left Golok and it went up to 36C by 10 am. After 19 km of riding, I stopped at a petrol station for cold water, used the toilet and pumped up my tyres. I had another break at 35 km and had coke at a roadside stall manned by a teen girl. She put lots of small ice cubes into a plastic bag and served the coke. I took this as an excellent sign: Thailand must like things cold!
At 60 km, I saw a big Buddha statue and took a few pictures. The road was mostly flat with some gradual slopes. I saw more farmland and the villages here were similar to those at east coast of Malaysia. The village girls here mostly worn tudong so the people here were majority Muslim. A lots of people yelled "Hello!" to me as I rode past the villages. Here they seemed even more enthusiastic than in Malaysia, the kids especially.
The drivers here were also kind to the cyclists. They often gave two short beeps of honking to say "hello" or giving us the thumbs up. Almost always they gave me a lot of room.
The road signs were mostly in Thai script so I had often asked the locals by pointing the finger in front and said: Narathiwat. They were very helpful and friendly in their response. I did not face problem to get to Narathiwat and to the hotel that I stayed, TanYong hotel. When I reached the hotel, it was already 12:30 pm and I desperately needed a cold drink. The good thing about this hotel was: 2 big bottles of complimentary cold mineral water. TanYong hotel, one of the best hotel, if not the best here. This was the best hotel that I stayed so far, 700 baht for a night. I had fried rice lunch at the hotel and a big bottle (so far I encountered the hotel in Thailand only sold big bottle of beer) ice-cold Singha beer. I went to a walking distance cyber cafe to send out emails but there was no broad band, sending photos was a problem. Later, I went to the nearby night market by the seaside. It was well organised and spaced out, one side of the road was all selling food and the other one was non-food items. People bought their food and had their picnics at the seasides on the long sitting gallery facing the sea. There was also free live band entertainment performing at the seaside. I followed suit and it was a nice feeling eating there and enjoying the cool sea breeze.
I had satay, barbecued banana and barbecued glutinous rice wrapped in fragrant leaf for dinner. It was indeed a good and satisfying dinner. There were many Chinese shops around town and I started to believe that Chinese were everywhere.
18 May 03 - Day 9 Pattani 101 km
Total: 792 km
Altitude: 450 M
I started off as early as 7 am and the town was still sleeping except the market was lively. I did not have breakfast but bought 2 rolls of barbecued glutinous rice wrapped in fragrant leaves, to eat later. I like it because I found it hygienic, tasty and good source of energy.
Getting back to highway 42 was not a problem and I had no problem navigating as there were English written on the major city/town road sign. The weather was cool at 24C. I took advantage of the cool weather and the flat as a bed road, cycled non-stop for 48 km and stopped at a petrol station to have my breakfast, the glutinous rice rolls and 2 bottles of cold soya bean milk from the station. I had my 2nd break after riding total 70 km at a roadside shop house as the temperature rose to 36C and I gurgled a can of ice old coca-cola. The next 30 km, I felt like I was an ant crawling on a hot plate, the temperature went up to 38C by 10 am and shoot up to 42C by noon, I never experienced cycling at 42C before, it was really hot and in this heat, my body was like a burlap sack full of water--every pore dripped water.
The head wind was in full swing and I rode under high temperature, strong head wind and bore with my aching buttock. I had problem to maintain at 20 km/h and made frequent stops before I got heat stroke. Turning into Pattani was a little tricky, had to make a u-turn and got onto the opposite direction and later turn left into a road leading to Pattani. As I got into the town, I crossed a bridge where underneath was a big river, I saw women in their sarongs and kids diping in the muddy looking river. What a way to cool off on a hot summer afternoon. With the help of a Thai local family, guided me in their car all the way to My Garden Hotel. The Thai people were really helpful and friendly. It was almost 1 pm and the hottest cycling experience.
The highway 42 was all the way flat and with well-paved cycling lane. The scenery was an extension of yesterday, big field, villages with Muslim community, more mosques and I had yet to see a temple or church.
In the evening, from the local source that a park in this town worth visiting. Indeed, it was. The park was big with a fountain and a pond. There were full of activities; the young ladies having their aerobic, the middle-aged had their Qigong exercise, many playing sepak takra or skading boards, some jogging, many just sat on the grass and listen to live singing, some had picnics and some just relaxed. It was like a family affair. When the sun went down, all activities suddenly ceased.
Today I met another good guy called Krittisak who ran a cyber cafe. When I had problem to link into the singnet server. he pillioned riding me on his scooter and took me to another shop with computers had faster modem. He waited an hour for me to finish my email then sent me back to hotel. I was so fortunate to have met him and in this small town, Pattani, I would remember how hospitable the people here were.
19 May 03 - Day 10 Hat Yai 113 km
Total: 905 km
Altitude: 460 M
I left Pattani at 7 am and it was slightly hazy. It was not a problem to get back to highway 42. After 13 km of riding and rode out of town, I turned into highway 43 which was leading to Hat Yai.
I actually wanted to have some food before I left but could not find any until I rode 25 km and found a roadside stall. Unfortunately, no cooked food was served and I could only get a hard-boiled egg, some cakes and a glass of ice-coffee. The stall also did not sell bottled drinking water so for the first time, I had a water bottle filled with coca-cola with ice. The coca-cola lasted me until 56 km of riding at a petrol station. It was not that I wanted to reach Hat Yai at the soonest and had less rest. It was because there was no stall or petrol stations in between. I gurgled a cold soya bean drink and bought 2-bottled drinking water. I top up the 2 emptied water bottles and finished the rest. I was too thirsty.
The temperature escalated from cool 23C when I started to 36C by 9:30 am. I stopped again at a petrol station after riding 73 km as I was hungry. By then the temperature went up to 38C and I had an ice cream. I stopped at 92 km again to cool my butt and had a sugar cane juice at a roadside stall at 101 km.
The traffic was light until the last 20 km to Hat Yai, especially in the city. A lots of motorcycles, buses and tuktuks (their version of mini-bus) and the air was highly polluted. The engine heat made the city temperature shoot up to 41C. Once experienced 42C, my body adjusted well today and was not as bad as yesterday.
There was a few km of car showrooms called car gallery leading into the city. To find a hotel in Hat Yai was not as easy as the last few days. As the traffic was heavy and I had to pay more attention to the traffic than look out for hotel sign. So I stopped and asked a middle-aged lady who ran a tailor shop. She spoke good English and advised me that the hotels in the centre of city were more than 1000 bahts and recommended me the mid-priced hotel; the President hotel that was a km away from the centre of city. I was a good recommendation at $600 bahts and the hotel room was great. By the time I got to hotel, it was 1:30 pm and I had spent almost 5 hrs of riding.
The road was just as flat as the last few days but with some gradual long climb between 80 km to 91 km from the start, the steepest climb went as high as 495 meters from 450 meters. Highway 43 was just as good as highway 42, which had well paved and wide shoulder for bikes. Despite the trucks and buses zooming by but they were not too close from me and some drivers gave honk warning when they were coming fast from behind. I felt comfortable and safe riding on it.
The scenery was no difference from yesterday's except got to see the sea more, more sea resorts along the way and as closer to Hat Yai, had less mosques.
Hai Yai was an exciting city. Walking down the street from hotel to the Hat Yai city centre was easy. I just kept to the Hotel side, crossed a road then passed the bus terminal where shops were abundant selling fashion wears, sports wears and gears. Anything from head to toe, could be found here. I got my multiple power-socket bought and changed my ringgit to baht there. At night, this place turned into roadside food stalls selling cooked food and fruits. Further down on the same side, there was a shopping complex where shops that selling mobile phones, jeans, fashion wear etc for the bargain hunter. A km down the road, crossed over the other direction. There were all the expensive hotels, shops selling jewelly, expensive cloths, high-end restaurants and modern shopping mall. I went into Lee Garden shopping mall and had my lunch at Chester's Grill. I also found a cyber cafe at the top floor where I sent my emails. Over here, the hourly charge was 50 bahts, double to other cyber cafes that I had been to but the service was good, same thing, no broad band. I had to resist temptation to buy anything. If not, I would add weight to the already heavy luggages.
20 May 03 - Day 11 Phatthalung/Trang 102 km
Total:1007 km
Altitude: 500 M
My decision to ride to Phatthalung was simple, this was the nearest town from Trang so that I could meet up with my Thai friends who stayed in Trang and it was about 100 km from Hat Yai.
I left Hat Yai as early as 6:35 am. I just wanted to avoid the heat a little. The morning was cool at 23C and to get back to Highway 43 was easier than I expected. After the first 13 km of flat road, I got a good morning work out. The 12 km of rolling hills which went up as high as 542 m from 480 m really woke me up totally from the early morning blues. I had a short rest at a petrol station after 31 km and a second rest after 55 km at a roadside stall. Then, the 2 buns and a small bottle of milk that I took before I left Hotel were used up. I wanted to have noodle but not available so I ended up having a coke from the stall to go with my own Orei biscuit. That helped me to ride another 22 km to have my 3rd rest at a roadside bus stop shelter. The heat was although not as bad as yesterday, reached 38C by 10:30 am. I reached Thai hotel in Phatthalung at 12:15 pm and spent 4 hrs and 40 minutes on the saddle to complete the 102 km journey.
When I checked into the hotel, I called my Thai friend, Kittikom who stayed in Trang, which was 58 km from Phatthalung. He told me that he would meet me up at the hotel at 3 pm. After washed up and just finished my lunch at the hotel, Kittikom and Sompol came to meet me an hour earlier. I knew these 2 Thai friends during my ride in Thailand in Feb 2002.
They drove me to a large fresh water lake that stretched from Songkla to PhatthaLung. I had not been onto an automobile since 10 May. We also visited the Thalae Noi Bird Sanctuary where between Dec-Jun, 188 species of birds migrates to this sanctuary. After the visit, Sompol took us to a shop, which had no signboard and looked more like a normal residence, to buy braised trotters. Kittikom told me that the Thai princess would buy as much as she could whenever she came for bird watching. They bought 3 portions for dinner.
They also insisted that I must stay in Trang and packed my bike onto Kittikom's pickup although I had already paid for my hotel room.
When we reached Trang, Kittikom introduced his wife and an avid cyclist friend called Songsak to me and we had dinner together. The dinner was fantastic especially the braised trotters with black sauce. We ended the night with high note; beers at the Trang hotel coffee house. It was an eventful day and not so lonely night.
 At the entrance of Phathalung lake |
 With Sompol and Kittikom at Phathalung lake |
 At Thalae Noi Bird Sanctuary |
21 May 03 - Day 12 Trang Rest Day
Altitude: 540 M
For 10 days of cycling, I deserved a well earned rest day. After sending my bike for servicing to clean up the gears and chain. Kittikom, who owned 2 shops in upholstery and canvas business took time off from his busy day, took me for Tim Sum breakfast. Oh! I missed Tim Sum. This Tim Sum place was special, chose the Tim Sum from the freight and the chosen Tim Sum would be steamed on the spot. It was the best Tim Sum restaurant because the food was so fresh.
After breakfast, Kittikom, Sompol and Songsak took me to the Rainbow waterfall and we trekked all the way to the most scenic spot. We had a good dip at the pool below the waterfall. We went back to town after the swim and I had a good lunch; soup Kway Teow and followed by a dry one. The special part of this lunch was that various type of fresh vegetables and an ingredient box containing sugar, all type of chillies and spices were provided, it was up to the diners to mix and match.
In the afternoon, I collected back the serviced bicycle and visited the famous beach, Yong Ling beach. Kittikom and Sompol, took me through the most adventurous and scenic spot on the beach. We trekked the hill at the beach, went through a dark tunnel and came to the beach that blocked by the hill. Kittikom insisted that I must wear the float before got into the sea. At first I did not feel comfortable to wear the float and later understood his concerned as the wave was very strong and the sea was deep. From there we swam in the sea for about 50 meters and that led us to another beautiful spot, a hidden paradise. It was dangerous but worth the effort. I had a shower from a well after the swim. We ended the day with seafood dinner at the LayTrang restaurant, the best in Yong Ling beach. My Thai friends were really great hosts.
 At the entrance of Rainbow waterfall |
 Trekking to Rainbow waterfall |
 At Yong Ling beach |
22 May 03 - Day 13 Krabi 130 km
Total: 1137 km
Altitude: 565 M
It was never in my plan to come to Krabi. I actually planned my ride after Trang to Nakon Si Thammarat. Kittikom advised me that the road along west coast was scenic. Since I had not been to Phuket and have enough time to reach Bangkok, so I was convinced to try out the west coast.
Today's riding distance to Krabi was the second longest and the longest in Thailand for this trip so far. If not for a good rest day and the good food, I would have doubted that I could make it without difficulty.
I found my bike very smooth after serviced and the first 53 km was no sweat even with some long, as steep as 546 meter high slope to climb. I took my first rest at a petrol station. The breakfast of 2 x half-boiled eggs and 2 buns that I took before I left Trang gave me sufficient energy. The next leg of ride was smooth except after riding 68 km, I met with the first scattered rain and got wet and dirty. After riding 74 km, when I was fighting strong head wind and had problem to maintain at 20 km/h, I saw a stout and fierce looking dog, 5 meter away from my left, without barking and darted towards me. My experience warned me that I had to ride as fast as I could to avoid got bitten. My speed shoot up to 35 km/h and the dog chased me for about 20 meters and gave up.
I had my second rest at another petrol station after riding 88 km and I actually wanted to get something to eat but there was no food that I liked, so after the toilet break, I rode on. At 12 pm, the temperature rose to 38C and I was really hungry. When my bicycle computer read 103 km, I saw some fruits stalls at a small town called Ban Pern. I stopped for a break. I got the stallholder to cut 2 mangoes for me and the 2 mangoes lasted me all the way to Krabi. There was some hard climbing in the last leg of the journey. I reached Krabi almost at 2 pm and spent slightly more than 6 hrs on the saddle.
I checked into Thai hotel for its surrounding scenic view and close to all the amenities. But for $700 bahts and the room condition, I though it was over-priced, until I discovered the service was good. What happened was I put my wet cycling shoes outside the window to sun but the vibration of the air-conditioner compressor caused one of the shoe dropped down below. When I asked for help and their service was spontaneous and I got my shoe back. For that, it worth $700 bahts a night.
Krabi had a beautiful sea front and strolling or jogging along its bay would be a pleasurable thing to do. There were also sea cruise available to visit the nearby resort islands. Surrounding the bay, there were food stalls, bars and restaurants, Internet cafes, cheap guesthouses catered to the backpacker. All these were created for the western travelers/ backpackers and they were visible everywhere. The town itself, had no difference from other town that I had visited, shops after shops, street food stalls popped out as long there were space for them. Food had never been a problem in any Thai town. I presumed that the Thais just like the Chinese, they love to eat. I spent my dinner at Judy's Bar for some sentimental reasons.
 Farewell to Songsak and Kittikom |
 Rest point on the way to Krabi |
 At Krabi bay |
23 May 03 - Day 14 Phangnga 92 km
Total: 1229 km
Altitude: 592 M
I woke up this morning not by the usual alarm clock but the news broadcasting blasting out from the loudspeakers of the school next to the hotel that I stayed.
I left Krabi at 8:20 am considering the riding distance for today was less than 100 km. I under estimated the terrain. As I rode out of Krabi town of about 4 km. The road started to get hilly, the hilly road was endless and there were long and steep slope, some were as high as 615 meters raised from 540 meters at Krabi town. The hilly road became less steep after the first 50 km but never flatten and the rolling hills were actually never end. I did not recall I rode a flat stretch of road more than 2 km. The head wind was also very strong and on many occasions, I could not even ride 20 km/h during descent. At the last 10 km, the wind was so strong that I could not even ride 15 km/h. The weather today was not as hot as before. It was cloudy with passing rains and the highest temperature was 34C.
I was compensated with scenic hill views for climbing so much and so hard. This stretch of road was also less populated.
I took my first rest after 41 km of riding. I actually wanted to rest earlier but could not find any good rest point or petrol station for a long 20 km stretch of road. After the initial hard climbing, the raisin bread and milk that I took before leaving Krabi were put into good use. I finished the remaining bread from the same loaf at the first rest point. I rested again after 60 km and 77 km of riding. It rained at my last rest point.
I reached Phangnga around 2 pm and spent nearly 5 hrs on saddle. My average speed was below 19 km/h and this was the slowest ride so far for this trip. Phangnga was a small town, surrounded by hills and access to many resort islands. Coincidentally, I checked into the best hotel in town, the New Luk Muang hotel, 500 bahts a night.
In the evening , after I walked 4-5 km the whole town, I could not find a decent restaurant so I had my dinner at a food street.
As I rode towards north, the altitude moved up progressively and gradually. I started off at 300m at Mersing, went up to 425m at Sungai Golok and now at Phangnga, the altitude was 592m, went higher from Krabi at 540m.
24 May 03 - Day 15 Phuket 89 km
Total: 1318 km
Altitiude: 600 M
I left Phangnga as early as 6:15 am and the road was wet. It seemed that the rain had just stopped and I had no notice until I stepped out from Hotel. I slept like a pig last night and had 8 hrs of good sleep. I had 2 mangoes, milk and half a litre of water for breakfast that I bought last night. It seemed to be the best breakfast choice.
The road was continued to be hilly for the first 50 km but not as steep as yesterday. The head wind continued to bother me. The weather was cloudy initially and I met a light drizzle in the middle of the journey. In the later part of the morning, the temperature never went higher than 35C.
After an hour of ride, I needed to urine as I drank too much water and started to feel hungry. There was no petrol station in sight for the first 20 km. I could not hold it further so I was eyeing for alternative until I saw a roadside makeshift stall, which had not started operation. I used the stall as a cover and this was the first time I answered the call of nature in the nature. I ate Orei biscuit which was bought last night and continued the journey. After riding another 20 km, when I crossed the Sarasin Bridge, a long linked bridge with beautiful sea view below, I believed I had entered Phuket Island and I had another 42 km to reach the town. I only found a petrol station after riding 56 km and used that as my 2nd rest point.
It was only 10:40 am when I reached the town so I took my time to search for a hotel. I chose Rome Place hotel and checked in at 11 am. The 500 baht hotel worth its cost as it had a nice toilet, a clean and spacious room with modern fittings. It was also within the town area. I had a good lunch and Swenson ice cream and found the best cyber cafe in town.
25 May 03 - Day 16 Beach Around - Thai Muang 130 km
Total:1448 km
Altitude: 650 M
Today was an unlucky day. First I got my rear tyre punctured at Kamala Beach, then my bicycle chain got stuck in the gap between the crank and the bottom bracket housing and lastly, I got to ride extra 8 km when I was so tired and desperate for time.
Actually when I left hotel at 7:50 this morning. I had no plan where I should spend the night. My plan was to visit the beaches in Phuket what Phuket was famous for.
I was deceived by the word 'beach'. I though all beaches should be at flat ground just like the East Coast Park back home. So I got shocked that I had to climb steep hills in order to get to the beaches. I rode up hill peak at 685 meters in order to get to Kata beach, the first beach that I wanted to visit. This was the first time I need to use the 26/28 gear ratio to climb hill. To be honest, I was not sure whether my fitness problem or the gear ratio problem, I had to dismount from the bike and pushed the bike up when near to the peak. I swore that I would not go back the same way. It was a 20 km ride and I rewarded myself a good breakfast at Kata resort before proceed to the beach. At the resort area, what a tourist needed would not have problem to get it here, including tattoo and Club Med was situated here. Kata beach was beautiful and riding along the bay was enjoyable from Kata beach to Karon beach. I captured the beautiful sea view with my camera as much as I could do. Getting over to Patong beach required much effort and had to climb over hill after hill. Although the alleviation was not as high as getting over to Kata, I had to push my bike again.
Patong beach, to me, too much shops and too commercial, not as natural and beautiful like Kata beach. Tourists were mostly westerners and some men holding hands with Thai girls half of their ages. Just as I crossed over to Kamala beach, my rear tyre got punctured. But not too bad a situation where I could find a shady place to change the inner tube. After fixed up the punctured, I had 2 choices, I could either cross another hill to Surin beach or back to Phuket town again. I chose the latter and as I needed to pump more air into the rear tyre as my hand pump did not get the job done well. As I got to Patong town, I got help from a motorcycle shop and got my tyre enough air. As I furthered my journey for 500 meters, a steep slope suddenly appeared and when I downshifted my gears quickly, unfortunately, my bicycle chain stuck in the gap between the crank and the bottom bracket housing. It required a long screwdriver to extract the chain out. So my reaction was to get back to the same motorcycle shop again. The Thai mechanic there helped me to fix up in less than 5 minutes and declined payment. Thai people were really helpful.
I cycled back and to the shock of my life, I had to climb hill as high as 720 meters and hill after hill to get back to Phuket town. I did that in the mid-day where the sun was mercilessly baking me. I was defeated by the steep hills and pushing up the bike was as tiring as riding on it. To get to see any beaches there, basically had to climb hills.
I did not know how I ended up in a village in Kathu district. I was thirsty and hungry. I got a not too bad tasting fried rice lunch and plenty of cold water. At this point, I had ridden 48 km. I decided to get out of Phuket island and spent the night at Thai Muang for 2 reasons: First, it seemed good chance to get accommodation there as all the locals I asked got positive answer. Secondly, my estimation was that I was about 40 km from Sarasin Bridge. I managed to get back to highway 402 where I came from. After riding another 13 km, I saw a big road sign indicating that 33 km to Sarasin Bridge. The same highway I rode yesterday but in different direction. The evening sun was shining on my face. I crossed Sarasin Bridge and rode at rapid pace. By then it was already 5 pm and I had ridden 94 km. I had to ride hard before the last light. I was so tired that I made a mistake for riding 4 km extra for missing a turn, all in, I rode extra 8 km.
My ride to Thai Muang seemed the longest and every km was so hard to gain. I rode as hard as I could and gave every drip of my energy. I reached Thai Muang just before 6:30 pm and rode 130 km for the day. To get a place here to stay required some searching. At last, I found the Sleep Lagoon which was 2 km away from town. I was both happy with the room and the rate: 350 baht a night. Later, I hired a motorcycle taxi to take me to town for dinner. He took me to a restaurant owned by a Chinese who was a Hokkien and I had no problem to get the food that I wanted. I had dinner together with the motorcycle taxi rider. It was a satisfying dinner and I had a good talk to the restaurant Chinese boss. This was a small town but I found the people warm and friendly.
 Kata beach |
 Karon beach |
 Top of Karon hill before Patong beach |
26 May 03- Day 17 Takuapa 80 km (68 km to Takuapa)
Total: 1528 km
Altitude: 672 M
I took things easy this morning as I figured out that I needed to ride below 70 km to Takuapa. So I patched the punctured tube and after an unsatisfactory breakfast in town, I started my tour around Thai Muang beach. I cycled along the coast and had the sea by my side. It was a quiet morning and rode up to Khao Lumpee-Haad Thai Muang Marine National park. If not for the time constrain, I would like to visit the park.
I had Thai hotpot barbecued lunch at Thai Muang beach. The hotpot used coal to barbecue food and one of the best lunch I had for this trip. When I left for Takuapa, it was 1 pm and it was blazing hot. I rode back to town again to access to highway 4 to Takuapa, after about 3 km, a big road sign shown: 65 km to Takuapa. The road continued to be hilly and just after riding past the road sign, I got my bicycle chain slipped again. The motorcyclist who rode me to the Chinese restaurant, saw me stopped at the roadside, came to help me. I was really thankful to him and we got the chain fixed back within a minute or 2.
After 27 km of riding, I climbed hills that peaked at 680 meter before got over to Khao Lak district. To reward myself for the great effort and not to miss the nice sea view from the top. I rested and had sandwiches at a restaurant on the hill top, which had good view on the sea below. Khao Lak was also a popular tourist attraction and it had much better infrastructures than Thai Muang. Shops, chalets and bungalow for rent and pubs were found aplenty along the town. No problem to get accommodation here. As I rode on, my bicycle chain got problem to up shift from the smallest crank to the middle crank. 20 km away from Takaupa, I saw a bicycle shop, which was not easy to find one (plenty of motorcycle workshop around) in a small town in Thailand. So I stopped at the shop and the owner adjusted it for me free. Thai people were really helpful.
There was only a hotel in Takuapa, the Extra Hotel which was hidden behind the Esso petrol station.
Takuapa was a small town and surprisingly, I found a bakery shop and bought bread for breakfast tomorrow. I had a good conversation with the bakery girl named Pry who was the daughter of the bakery owner. she was an undergrad in a Bangkok university who spoke reasonably good English. I found no cyber cafe and every shop closed by 9 pm. I had not decided to ride to Ranong or Suratthani, which were about the same distance, 160-170 km, a long and hard ride tomorrow.
 Sleeping Lagoon |
 At Thai Muang beach |
 Hilltop view of Khao Lak beach |
27 May 03 - Day 18 Surathani 162 km
Total: 1690 km
Altitude: 743 M
Today's ride was one of the toughest and most memorable one. I decided to ride to SuratThani instead of RanOng for a simple reason, as I gethered the road to Ranong was narrow and dangerous and SuratThani was a better town. I wanted to ride to a better town and hope that I could find a good bike shop to service my bike.
I left for Suratthani at 8 am, later than I planned because I felt sleepy when I woke up at 5 am, went back to sleep again and only woke up at 7 am.
After enjoying 10 km of flat road out of town and cool morning breeze, I hit Highway 401, a 2-way highway with 2 lanes and narrow road shoulder. The first 50 km of mountain road, some parts, were rough like orange skin and riding on it gave a good bone shaking. The road although narrow but safe as the mountain road was lowly populated and occasionally, some trucks and buses on the road.
I started my endless climb once I got into the mountain road. The knee-crushing part was after riding 30 km, here came the long and steep climb, my altitude meter figure rise to 750 meters, I though this was the peak then after a curve, up again, increased to 800 meters, I though this was the peak again, then a sharp curve again, 850 meters. the climb went gradual a bit, then continued with sharp climb, I was cursing, dare to hit 900 meters, yes, it hit 900 meters. This should be the peak, I though. It went descent for less than 20 meters to altitude 880 meters and then another hill to climb and finally peaked at 930 meters. It was a 5 km of climb and my stubbornness pressed me on, I finished the climb without stopping. Give that man a beer!
I was rewarded with the same distance of descent and the roller coaster down hill was exhilarating. At the end of the decent, there was the Khao Sok National Park. I had to give it a miss due to time constrain as I had to reach Surathani before dark.
I enjoyed another 10 km of flat road and I thought the hill climbing was over. Far from that, the next 30 km were hills after hill, although not as steep. I wanted to take a rest and get something to eat, as my breakfast of 3 buns of bread and milk had long used up. There was no food in sight until I reached Phanom, a small town and spotted a roadside stall. I had Kway Teow soup and plenty of cola (I never like to take soft drink and I never had so much before). By then, the weather was hot and I had already cycled 80 km, about half the journey and had ridden 4 hours.
I started riding again at 12:45 pm and the temperature had risen to 37C and the road continued to be hilly until the last 10 km. The slope was more gradual but longer in the next 80 km. Also, luck was on my side, the first time I enjoyed tail wind for most part of my second part of the journey.
I rested briefly after riding 98km, 123km and 142km.
Just like any big town like Phuket and Hat Yai, before the town, the car gallery would ushered the way to the town. The traffic was heavy as I entered into town. I pampered myself with the best hotel in town, the Wang Tai hotel. I would rest a day to recover to face the longer distance ahead.
 At 930 M at this mountain |
 Mountain scenery |
 Lunch at Phanom |
28 May 03- Day 19 Surathani Rest Day
I had a good sleep last night in a most comfortable hotel and the most expensive that I had stayed for this trip. $900 bahts a night with breakfast, to me was not extravagant at all. This was the only hotel I stayed with a swimming pool. I was tempted to take a dip but dropped the idea later since I got quiet a couple of things to do, Firstly, I needed to change some Thai bahts as my holding dropped low. I wanted to find a Internet cafe with disc drive so that I could down load e-photos. I had to catch up with my writing on this trip. The most important; to get my bike tune up.
So after breakfast, I started wondering around the streets along Tapee River to get my things done. Tapee river was just like Krabi bay, a life line of the town, eateries, ferry services, tours, internet cafes, guest houses, banks, shops of all provisions, markets, anglers and hawkers were all gathered around here.
I got my currency changed at the bank, not like Phuket and Hat Yai, moneychangers were everywhere. To change currency in a bank was a long process and required to produce passport, even the amount involved was small.
To find a bicycle shop in Thailand required some effort. It was a dying trade, which had taken over by motorcycle where shops selling motorcycle and workshop were plentiful. I found one near the Tapee River but did not even have a proper repair stand so I continued my search. At last, I found a high-end bike shop, which had a good range of mountain bikes and accessories. Surprise! the boss of the shop was a lady, a lean mountain biker, spoke reasonably good English. Her name was Manthana and she was one-woman operation, she serviced my bike! She was skillful and got things done up and cleaned my bike chain. Cyclist and cyclist, with same passion and lifestyle, started conversation very easily. I shared my trip experience and she had keen interest in getting a digital camera of my model. Too bad had to end the conversation as I had some other things to attend to.
The best Internet Cafe I found was the one I used last night but the trouble was unable to download e-photos. I had a good dinner at an open-air barbecued restaurant in buffet style. This was similar to the one at Thai Muang, the hotpot used charcoal but over here was more refined and more varieties. It even provided fruits and desert. I ate my heart out and totally enjoyed the food.
29 May 03 - Day 20 Chumphon 198 km
Total: 1888 km
Altitude: 755 M
Today, I made 2 personal records in my cycling history:
1. I rode exactly 120 km non-stop without rest in 5 hrs 15 minutes.
2. I rode 198 km, the longest distance on a loaded bicycle, achieved average speed 23 km/h in 8 hrs 30 minutes.
I got a long distance to ride today so I left as early as 6:35 am after the good hotel breakfast. It was a cloudy morning and the road was flat. 50 km down the road, I hit with a light drizzle and that did not bother me. I took advantage of the cool weather, flat road and energy from the good breakfast. I rode non-stop. Probably a good rest yesterday and had became fitter after all the hilly rides, I did not feel that I needed a rest, anyway, I hardly saw petrol stations or suitable rest points, so I pressed on. Then I was telling myself, why not took a rest after 100 km, half of the day's distance. About 80 km down the road, I met with a heavier drizzle and I never got dry after that. I faced no problem to complete the first 100 km but no rest point in sight. Then I saw a road sign indicating that 23 km away would come to a town called Lang Suan. I though why not make it there to have a good rest and lunch. The next 20 km was not easy, the most difficult part was that I got a strong urge to urine. My stubbornness drove me on but when I rode up to 120 km, I saw a road sign indicating that to Lang Suan, there would be 2 km of diversion and I would not wish to do that. Fortunately, I saw a petrol station and I turned in and rushed to the toilet, what a relief!
There were food stalls at the petrol station. I had Kway Teow soup, a fish meat/tou fu/ vegetable soup and 2 x coca-cola. While I was having my lunch, the rain got heavier. After a good 45 minutes rest, I proceeded with my journey and riding under the rain, I rested again after completed 152 km at a roadside fruit stall and ate some snake-skin fruits called "Sarak" in Thai that I had never eaten before. I was forced to have another break at 162 km because my bicycle computer was not working. So I stopped at a rain shelter to check and found that the computer sensor was soiled caused the malfunction. I got it fixed and carried on with the journey.
Towards the end to Chumphon, there were some gentle and long slopes to climb but not a problem. When I reached Chumphon, it was already 5 pm and I had been on the saddle for 8 hrs 30 minutes. I was riding at rapid pace.
I was dirty like a coalminer and my bike and the panniers were soiled like never before. I checked into Chumphon Palace Hotel, the best in town, I needed a comfortable place to recover. It was a clean and hygienic hotel and for 450 bahts a night, it was worth. I spent almost 2 hrs to clean up the mess.
The rain came again after my dinner. I got problem to get to an Internet cafe and my phone got connection problem. I waited until 9 pm and the rain stopped. The helpful hotel staff offered me a lift on his motorcycle to the one and only Internet cafe but the line was also down. So, I went to a street where pubs, restaurants and disco lined the street. I went into one of those. It was a relaxing evening and I had more beers than usual.
30 May 03 - Day 21 Prachuap Khiri Khan 188 km
Total: 2076 km
Altitude: 755 M
When I woke up this morning, I was not in my good form. Probably I had not fully recovered from yesterday's ride on punishing pace. I started my journey almost at 9 am. I though I could reach my destination, Prachuap before dark with ease considered yesterday's performance. I under estimated the road terrain again. I though the road should be just as flat as yesterday's. I made a wrong assumption.
Somehow or rather, I lost my way, instead of back to highway 4, I landed in a country road run paralleled to the highway. The road was shady, running along coconut trees and some stretches were hilly. The only industry between the highway and the ocean seems to be coconuts and I could see a few coconut factories along the road. If not for some stretches of the road like wash board, I did not mind riding on it all the way to Prachuap. After 30 km, I came to a small town called Thasae and the road connected back to the highway.
So I got onto Highway 4 and the road was hilly. After about 2-3 km of riding, I saw a road sign, Prachuap: 155kms, a long way more to go. As I rode on, my confidence level had also gone down as the road was not flat like yesterday's. My worry was that whether I could make it before dark as time was running against me. I stopped at a roadside stall for my first rest after riding 50 km. The food there never arose my appetite although I was hungry. I had 2 coca cola and a banana cake for lunch and bought another not bad tasting banana cake as spare. I rode on after less than 20 minutes rest. The weather was hot then. The heat and the continued climbing of rolling hills forced me had another break at 68 km point at a roadside shop. I had a good conversation with the lady owner who spoke some English claimed to be 62, looked much younger than her age. She told me she worked in Hong Kong for 3 years. I had 2-soya bean milk there and a photo taken with all her lady friends. She declined to collect money from me but I insisted that I had to pay. She also offered some dry food for me to eat along the way but I had already got a banana cake, so I politely rejected.
Just before I left, the weather changed drastically, here came the Godsend rain. Although I did not like to get wet but under the circumstances, it might be good for me. I rode under rain and continued with the endless climb. The road climb became more gentle but longer. I was forced to have a break due to the malfunction of the bicycle computer again after riding exactly 100 km. The yesterday experience told me that it must be caused by the rain and got the sensor soiled. So I fixed the problem and had my banana cake eaten and drank a bottle of water. I continued with the journey shortly and I had the tail wind to help me to speed up all the climb. I rode another 46 km and had my last break at a small town. I ate 3 cakes and had 2 coca-cola, which make sure I got enough fuel to pedal the next 42 km. The rain stopped and it was already 5 pm. I had less than 2 hrs to complete the next 42 km. I was at race pace for the last leg. In between, I got chased by dogs twice, the last one was a nasty one and I almost got caught up by the fierce and dangerous looking black dog. I hate dogs. Dogs are mens' friends but cyclists' enemies.
I reached Prachuap was already dark at 6:45 pm. I got the best hotel, HadThong hotel, which was by the seaside. I felt guilty to come a high-end hotel with filthy self. I asked the hotel to let me wash away all the sand before I got to the room and they gladly took me to a tap with a hose at the backyard of the hotel. I made sure my bike and panniers were free of sand. I was grateful that the hotel allowed me to put my bike in the hotel room. I had my dinner at the hotel and took a stroll along the bay. It was a beautiful and clean place. There were seafood stalls lining along the bay and I found 2 mobile bars. The mobile bars were interesting which built as an extension of a van. I had beer at one that owned by a Thai named Nont, in his late 20' or early 30' who wore earrings, kept goatee beard, played nice soothing western music. I enjoyed the sea breeze and the atmosphere.
 Lunch point to Prachuap |
 With a group of Thai lady |
 Relax at a mobile bar |
31 May 03- Day 22 Prachuap Khiri Khan Rest Day
I woke up at 5:30 am to see the sun rise. I was told by Nont that not to miss it. The Gulf of Thailand was calm and peace. The fishing boats were floating along the shore. I did not get to see the sun rise at its best, as the sky was cloudy. I got a glimpse of the sun broke through the thick cloud and it was beautiful.
I got my bike down later and rode along the bay. First, the fishing boats had just returned from night fishing and the fishmongers were there for the bargains. The main harvest for the fishermen were crabs, cuttlefish and many kind of fishes. Then came the buns seller and I got 2 buns and some meatballs for breakfast.
I rode further down about a km then came to a hill and I called it the Monkey hill, This hill was monkey everywhere and strangely, the monkeys here were well behaved, occasionally would scuffled among themselves but no harm to the people. Even feeding them, the very most they would climb onto the feeders but posed no threat. I got 2 bunches of banana for them. There were also staircases and shelters built all the way to the top of the hill to have a full view of the sea. I did not go up as I had got my bike with me.
Later, I rode to the main road of the town and found the one and only Internet cafe, which was 500 meters from the hotel, just walked through the wet market after the Post Office.
I rode back to hotel, kept my bike and walked to the Internet Cafe. The rate of 50 bahts an hour here was considered expensive compared to the rate of other towns but the computers here were new. It was a Saturday and I spent more than an hour before I could get access to Singnet.
I got an easy and lazy Saturday afternoon. I did some writing on my last 2 days' experience and washed whatever clothes that needed to be washed.
I had a good nap in late noon and when I woke up, it was almost dark. I ventured into the seafood stall along the bay. I did not get the food to be cooked the way I wanted but was not a bad dinner. I also had a big jar of beer at Nont's mobile bar. He played my favourite Eagle's and Eric Clapton's music. When time to sleep. Nont gave me a ride on his motorcycle back to hotel. Once again, I was touched by the Thai people friendliness and helpfulness.
 Dawn sea view |
 Dawn sea view |
 Fishing boats |
01 Jun 03 - Day 23 Phechaburi 163 km
TotalL: 2239 km
Altitude: 755 M
I left Phrachuap at 7:30 am after I had pig organ soup and bamboo glutinous rice for breakfast at a stall along the town main road. I made sure I got enough energy to ride.
The highway between Phrachuap and Phetchaburi was fairly flat except some parts of the road were not as smoothly paved and bouncy. There were a few long and gentle slopes to climb and my 40T could do the job well. My granny gear was having its day off.
The further north, more paddy fields and more cows in sight. The beautiful mountain line was further strectched to both sides of the road. I enjoyed my morning ride and had a short pee break at a petrol station at Kui Buri, I had my lunch at a petrol station at Pran Buri after riding 76 km. I only saw a road sign to show the distance to PhetchaBuri after my lunch; 85 km more to go. There were two famous beach resort, Hua Hin and Cha'am further north of Pran Buri. If not my leave was ending soon, I would like to spend a few days there. By noon, the temperature went up to 36C. I was so thirsty that had another rest exactly completed 100 km, at a roadside stall and the operator was an attractive young lady with the model figure who spoke some English. We engaged in a conversation while I was having my coke and soya bean drink. I spent a good 20 minutes there.
As I rode on for another 25 km, my lunch of Kway Teow soup had all used up as fuel. When I saw the KFC sign at a petrol station, I turned in with no second though. After my stomatch filled up with fried chicken and the French fries, I rode like a champion, averaging 28 km/h and reached Phetchaburi before 4 pm. I spent slightly more than 7 hrs on the saddle.
To get a good hotel here, I hired a motorcycle taxi to guide me to the hotel that I stayed, Royal Diamond, 800 bahts a night.
I expected Petchaburi to be a tourist centre like the previous two towns I visited. It was not. It was a normal Thai town with an unusual number of temples.
After my dinner at a restaurant near the hotel, I went to ask around where could I find an Internet cafe, a young man voluntarily gave me a ride on his motorcycle to the Internet cafe. Unfortunately, there were kids playing online games and I could not get connected. The young man rode me to another internet cafe but it was closed. He then rode me back to hotel. How helpful the Thai people were!
As it was still early, I went back to the same restaurant to enjoy the 3-man band that played good western country music. It seemed that was the most sensible thing to do for a lonely traveler. I had been having beer and music almost every evening before I got to bed.
 Lunch point at Pran buri |
 With a beautiful Thai lady |
 Rest at KFC |
02 Jun 03 - Day 24 Bangkok (Rangsit) 166 km( Bangkok:132 km)
Total: 2405 km
Altitude: 775 M
I left hotel at 8:10 after a good hotel breakfast. As I rode out of Phetchaburi town, a road sign indicating that I had 123 km to ride to Bangkok. The road continued to be flat from highway 4 to highway 35, which was heading towards Samut Songkhram direction. The weather was cloudy initially and started to get warm after 10 am. I had cold drinks at my first rest after riding 77 km at a roadside store at Samut Sakhon. The temperature was at 37C then and once entered into highway 35, the traffic was heavy with countless of heavy vehicles zoomed by. It was dusty and the road shoulder for cyclist, some parts were rough and sandy; some parts were parked with heavy vehicles. I had no joy riding on it.
The scenery along Highway 4 was scenic with paddy field mixed with coconut trees and distant hills as background. Along highway 35, there were industrial and salt farms, I saw more grey concrete than green.
After riding 92 km, I spotted an A&W restaurant at a petrol station and I stopped for lunch. The weather was hot and I had no appetite for dry food. I had waffle top with ice cream and a big glass of root beer float.
I finally reached Bangkok city after 130 km of riding and it was about 2:30 pm. Riding a bicycle in Bangkok was awful. It smells awful and traffic flows was as slow as jogging speed. I was forced to stop a lot at the bus stops where buses squeezed through me and stopped by my side.
In order not to trouble my Thai friend, Shanya who stayed in Rangsit to meet me in Bangkok city. I braved myself riding on the city road and made my way to Rangsit district, north of Bangkok city and after Bangkok Airport. I rode with the heavy traffic, standstill jams and the serious air pollutions. The traffic jam was so bad that I had to carry my bike out of the road and walked on the sidewalk to clear through the jam. I lost my ways many times. It started drizzling in the late afternoon and I was both hungry and thirsty. Riding on Bangkok city road was stressful and highly dangerous. I was glad that I survived and I swore I would never ride in Bangkok city again.
When I reached Rangsit, it was almost dark. Shanya came shortly after I called her. We put the bicycle in her car and she drove me to Asia Airport Hotel to check in. It was an expensive hotel, which cost $1900 a night but had the convenience access to the airport. We had dinner at a restaurant and beer at a pub. We talked a lot like long lost friends. I was back to hotel at almost 12 am.
03 Jun 03 - Day 25 Around Bangkok Rest Day
Shanya arrived punctually at 8 am. We had the most expensive hotel breakfast. Shanya just had a drink and I had the buffet breakfast. For 450 bahts, it was over-priced.
We first went to the Airport and bought my ticket for tomorrow 11:15 am flight. Shanya drove me to the best Floating market, which I estimated, more than 60 km away from Bangkok. The boat ride on the tributary of Mekong River was my first and enjoyable experience. It was an eye opener on how the boat people live on this lifeline. I had sweet and juicy Thai oranges on the boat for lunch.
On the way back, Shanya stopped by at a Wat, a famous Thai temple in Bangkok. We also visited the Human Imagery Museum, basically, a wax human imagery on popular monks, personalities, the first Thai kings up to the 8th and some reflections of Thai lives.
We went shopping in the later part of the afternoon and I bought some accessories for my sons from my favourite Country Shop, which I visited last year.
In the evening, Shanya arranged a dinner at a restaurant at the riverside where I met Santi and Ood, both I knew them during my Feb 2002 ride to Udon Thani. Santi told me he had been busy with his work and had hardly had time to ride. He put on a little. Ood, although 56, was as strong as before and he rode his bicycle to meet us. I notice that he was using a Brooks leather saddle, which was well seasoned. He told me that he got the saddle from Netherlands when he was young and had his bicycle tour then. I told him that his saddle was a classic and an antique that the Brooks saddle company might want to buy back.
The dinner ended at 10:30 pm and we enjoyed each other company. We had good and warm conversation. When I wanted to settle the bill, my Thai friends insisted that they had to be the host. This was another exhibition of Thai hospitality. When Shanya sent me back to hotel, it was already mid-night.
 Floating Market |
 Floating Market |
 At a temple |
04 Jun 03- Day 25 Summary
As usual, Shanya turned up punctually at the hotel lobby at 9 am and we left for Airport. After checked in my bicycle and my panniers, we had breakfast at the airport. At 10:30 am, I went to the departing hall, goodbye Shanya and Thailand. Here I ended this cycling trip and I wrote this summary during the flight.
a. The "vegetable" people:
Thai people love to eat vegetables and every dish would have some vegetables in it. They like to eat it raw too. There was always a plate of raw vegetables or spring union dipped into a glass of cold water for the customers for whatever food they ordered. Maybe the Thai people got healthy diet, I noticed that there were fewer obese people in Thailand.
b. The sugar and chilly people:
Thai people also love to add sugar and chilly into their foods. It was a standard provision at any restaurant/food stall to provide sugar and chilly. It was very common for them to add sugar into their noodles.
c. The tolerant people:
The Thai people got high tolerant. I had yet to see any Thai raise objection to what other people did. Many times, I had seen people at the rest stations, continued with their food even pick-up/trucks turned the engines on and generating polluted air. None raised objection. There were few occasions, my bicycle got dirty due to rain but had never been rejected by the hotel that I stayed. Compared to Thai people, Singaporeans complain too much.
d. The friendly, hospitable, helpful and courteous people:
For the people that I had met, I had yet to meet a nasty person during my trip. Maybe I was lucky, I only met friendly, helpful and courteous people and hospitable Thai friends.
e. Thailand seemed somehow American to me:
Thais like American culture. For instance, the Thai national car is a pickup truck. It is the most common vehicle on the road, other than a motorcycle. The only difference is they ride with four or more people ride in the back. Also there's a big fascination with the U.S Southwest/desert culture here. I had seen a lots of Western bars with antlers mounted on the walls. Thais like cowboy stuff. The power sockets are the same as American, even if 220 volts come out.
f. Motorcycles are part of Thailand:
Motorcycles were used as "bike taxi", converted into 3 wheels tuktuk, hawkers used motorcycles for business and students and workers used them as main transportation. Form kids to old lady, everyone could ride a motorcycle. They used motorcycles to the optimum; I had seen a motorcycle was ridden with 5 persons on it. I can't imagine Thailand without them.
g. Thai airline:
This was my second time taking the Thai airline and I was both impressed with their inflight services even I was taking economy class. Their service was just as good as Singapore Airline, if not better.
h. Personal Record:
a. Takuapa-SuratThani
b. Chumphon-Prachuap Khiri Khan
THE SOLO RIDER II
It had been two and a half years since my last cycling tour from Singapore to Bangkok. I wanted to have a cycling tour in 2004 but my father was murdered and later, my only sister passed away. It would be unfilial of me if I went ahead for cycling tour that would worry my mum and add more stress to her. My mum had got back to normal life and I had to liberalise my soul.
Why Vietnam? because I had never been to Vietnam. Why solo again? because I enjoyed the freedom of solo riding.
My knowledge about Vietnam was almost zero. I spoke no Vietnamese. From the Vietnam war movies, Vietnamese always portrayed as ruthless people, especially the Viet Gong, just like the cowboy movies, the cowboys as the invaders, were portrayed as heroes and the Red Indians, the defenders of their homelands, were bad guys.
My closest encountered with the Vietnamese, the boat people, was in 1975. As a young military officer during a military operation, I had boarded ships and boats that lined at our sea front. The boat people, the Southern Vietnamese left their country when the American backed South Vietnam lost their war to the Northern Vietnamese that year. I would like to find out more about Vietnam during this cycling tour.
03 Dec 05 Sat Day 1 Singapore - Hanoi
My plane landed at the Noi Bai International Airport, 35 km north of Hanoi. My bicycle had also arrived safely other than the front fender slightly bent and the right handle bar end stopper missing. Hassle free at the immigration and custom. At the arrival hall, I went to change my US$ to Vietnam Dong and acquired some information from the Tourist Information Counter. The friendly counter staff recommended Pacific Prince Hotel. Since the price was ok and the location of the hotel was also right and I had gladly accepted the recommendation. The hotel receptionist told me to wait, as she would send someone to fetch me to the hotel for US $10, a standard rate for taxi service from airport to Hanoi city. A few minutes later, a SUV arrived, big enough to store my bike with the last 2 rows of seats folded down. Good deal! We took about 45 minutes to arrive at Pacific Prince Hotel and it was close to 9 pm. The US $33 a night hotel room was just ok but the service was good. Breakfast included and the best part was free access to Internet.
As I stepped out the hotel to hunt for food, a battalion swarm of whirring and honking motorcycles, many of them waving their national flags, I though some forms of motorcycle race or riot. Later I found out that they were celebrating Vietnam women football team won gold for Sea Games, Vietnamese are patriotic and love football.
As it was late, all restaurants were closed and went to a snack bar just opposite the hotel, the only food it had was cake so I only got myself a beer and a cake. Not satisfied with that and since I dare not venture to the roadside food stalls. My hunt for food continued and finally found a place looked like a bar. So I went in and luck was on my side, it had got finger foods, so I had spring roll and chicken wings. As I enjoyed my hard found food, it was pouring rain outside. This bar played popular western music mostly the 70' and my favorite California Dreaming and Hotel California were in the air. As rain had stopped and it was time to sleep.
04 Dec 05 Sun Day 2 Hanoi
I had a bad sleep last night. I woke up at 4 am for stomach upset. I visited the toilet 4 times within 20 minutes and after that I did not get to sleep again for the stomach irritations.
I booked for a small group guided city tour for US$25. The lady guide came to fetch me punctually at 8:30 am. Including myself, only 3 persons and the other 2 were middle aged Canadians. It was a cool and cloudy day.
Traffic in Hanoi is chaotic and is just like than Bangkok, except does not seem to have traffic jams. Motorcycles were everywhere. Ever moving, wall-to-wall traffic - an endless swarm of whirring and honking motorcycles, with some bicycles, cars and trucks interspersed. Crossing the street can be quite an ordeal, as there are very few traffic lights, and even then, pedestrians have no priority whatsoever. The motorists seemed never use their back mirror and the only traffic rule I observed was to look in front. We visited the Ho Chi Minh memorial hall and museum, the West Lake, old quarters. Temple of Literature, Hoan Kiem Lake, Hang Gai and Hang Bong Street, Nothing particularly interests me.
I gave the water puppet show a miss, as the timing for the show was unable to fit my time. I had to prepare my bike and find out how to get to highway 1A. I later had dinner at a pub restaurant called Little Hanoi near the Hoam Kiem Lake. The customers were grueling to the TV for the Sea Games man football final, even the waitress, bartender and the cooks, while they were serving, their eyes never left the TV. Similarly, the street vendors were all watching the final. Vietnamese love football. No celebration by the Vietnamese that night as the Thai won the man football final. I had an early night to start my ride.
 The Ho Chi Minh Memorial Hall |
 Temple of Literature |
 Hoan Kiem Lake |
05 Dec 05 Mon Day 3 Hanoi - Thanh Hoa 152 km
The bikeman was on the road again and he was hunger for more! My original plan for today was to end the ride at 93 km at Ninh Binh but when I reached there, it was close to noon and I read a signboard indicating 60 km to Thanh Hoa. Since I had energy to spare so I changed my plan and headed to Thanh Hoa.
The weather today was just as cool as yesterday's at 13-16 C. Although the morning traffic in Hanoi was busy but just follow the flow, it would be all right.
After 10 km, I left the city and riding on highway 1A, which runs parallel to the railway most of the time. When I did my research before the tour. It seemed that most people would like to avoid the section from Hanoi to Hue and prefer to start from Hue to the south. Not sure what reasons were and my mission was to find out why.
The road was flat like a bed almost all the way to Thanh Hoa. Only some easy climb on the last 40 km and no big deal. The road was paved and the surface was also good for my 32C tyres. The road shoulder was wide enough for 2-3 bikes shoulder to shoulder. Sometime you got cyclists and motorcyclist riding opposite direction, and trucks stopped on it.
There were more cyclists on the road as I rode further south. Phu Ly, about 60 km from Hanoi is a good rest point. I had a short rest after riding 68 km, at a small roadside stall for toilet break and a pearl. From Phu Ly, 32 km to reach Vinh Binh.
The traffic was moderate and the vehicles behind honked most of the time and many truck drivers, drove past to given their thumbs up. Some students on bicycles gave friendly races.
I found a restaurant after some searching, 10 km away from Vinh Binh. The hygienic looking restaurant served decent food with first class service. Vietnamese are just hospitable as Thai. It was not easy to find a decent restaurant with bicycle security, along the way. It was also not easy to order food, as further from Hanoi, the English speaking Vietnamese was hard to find.
It was misty all day and towards the last 30 km, I could see the water vapor formed on my map case and the last 5 km, it started to drizzle. No big deal and the new fenders put into use. I arrived clean at Cong Thanh Hotel at 4 pm. I spent almost 7 hours on the saddle. It rained at night so I spent the night in the room to recuperate.
 First Rest Point From Hanoi |
 Between Phu Ly and Vinh Binh |
 Cyclists Along The Way |
06 Dec 05 Tue Day 4 Thanh Hoa - Vinh 142 km
Total Cycling : 294 Km
The sun was hiding for 3 days. By 3 pm, it was as dark as 6:00 pm back home. The weather was as cool as the last 2 days, 12-15 C. This was my first experience riding under cool weather. It was a challenge to me. Although I wore a 3/4 tight, a long sleeve jersey with a wind breaker, but for riding under cool weather was insufficient. As a result, I suffered from cold fingers, cold ears, cold toes, dry lips and my dry eyes became red eyes, later, my vision were blurred. I also get hungry faster and visit toilets more regularly. This had caused much discomfort for long distance riding.
I left Thanh Hoa at 8:30 am after breakfast in the hotel. 40 km later, I was hungry and gave myself a treat of 2 baguettes from a roadside stall. The road continued to be flat and the scenery got better as further south. I saw more cornfields and I had taken more photos. The traffic was less but not mild. I got more people cheering me and said hello to me. Exactly 80 km from the start, I reached a small town called Cau Giat and had my lunch there.
The last 30 km, I was like a lame duck, fatigue strike me, every parts of my body were screaming for rest. My knee and my butt protested aloud. I was like falling apart. I had to admit that I am no longer the young and fit. I push the 50 years old body too much.
Finally, I found a 2-star hotel, along the main road, Thuong Mai Hotel. US$15 a night. Next on the right, 20 meters away, a good restaurant where I had dinner there later and on its right, a posh looking hotel called SaigonKimLien. Vinh, a very much bigger city than Thanh Hoa.
I did not make much effort to find an Internet cafe here, as I was just too tired. I needed to recover fast to face the next day ride.
 Leaving the Hotel |
 Scenery Before Cau Giat |
 Scenery Before Vinh |
07 Dec 05 Wed Day 5 Vinh - Roon 140 km
Total Cycling: 434 Km
Honestly, I had no idea where I had landed today. I was about 7 km past the Ngang Pass and about 20 km to Hao Binh. The owner of the Guesthouse told me that I was in a place called Roon.
Getting out of Vinh was not that easy. There were a few cross-junctions and the tricky big round about where I almost hit the wrong direction. I finally got it correct and found Vinh University on my left a km away from the round about. The road got smoother as hitting south but not as flat as the last 2 days. There were long and gradual climb, especially toward the south last 50 km but no sweat. The traffic was getting mild as further south and scenery got better.
I got my lunch break at Ha Tinh after almost 2 and a half hours after riding 53 km. I could not find a proper restaurant and ended up in a small roadside eating house as I was just too hungry and could not be too choosy and fussy. The lunch was cheap and tasted good, although not too hygienic, just like the lunch that I had in Cao Giat yesterday.
My journey was planned to end in Ky Anh, 52 km from Ha Tinh so the day distance would be about halfway to Dong Hoi. The next 30 km was enjoyable, nice scenery, less vehicles on the road but I push my luck too much. It started to drizzle and strong wind, I was wet like a duck, freezing cold and I lost control of my num fingers. My temperature meter showed 10 C, coupled with the saddle sore and more to climb. I was testing my limit. The only motivation was another hours' ride, I would be able to rest.
I reached Ky Anh after a total 105 km of riding. Unfortunately, I got wrong information, no hotel or accommodation in sight after an extensive search. I was totally demoralised. I was very cold and I could see my breath. My body was in no condition for more km. I had no choice but pressed on to the next nearer town to try my lucks, instead of cursing under the rain. It was already over 1 pm.
More long gradual slopes to climb and the side wind blowing down from the hills were so strong that swayed me like a yo-yo. When my bicycle computer showed 133 km, I hit the first tunnel in Vietnam, the Ngang Pass tunnel. It was about 500m and was well lit inside the tunnel. From here, about another 60 km to Dong Hoi, I had to push myself harder before it got too dark.
God saved me, whoever he was, after 7 km, I saw a family run Guest House. The $200k VND a night, not cheap in Vietnam standard. I was just too tired to care. The room was clean and well furnished.
The taste of the dinner provided for was just acceptable but I worried about the hygiene problem. The owner used the same bowl of left over food to feed the dog! I hope I did not get stomach problem. This was the coldest ride of my life. 10-13C under rain. I did not know how I survived but I believe the daily cold morning shower helped me to be able to withstand coldness better. The Vietnamese wore more layers of clothes than I did.
 Scenery Before Ha Tinh |
 Lunch At Ha Tinh |
 The Ngang Pass Tunnel |
08 Dec 05 Thu Day 6 Roon - Ho Xa 123 km
Total Cycling: 566 Km
I did not get stomach upset but still felt lethargic even after a good 9 hours of sleep. My riding gears that washed yesterday were all still wet. So I had to wear my short sleeves jersey, short tights, wet socks and shoes. I gave my helmet a miss as the padding inside was wet. The Guest House owner was amazed that I was wearing a short tights in 12C weather.
It was confirmed that the place that I stayed last night was Roon, as I rode 2 km, I saw a big blue sign with the name of the town: Roon. I had my breakfast in roadside eating-house in this small fishing town.
I plan to ride to Ho Xa, about 120 km from Roon and from Ho Xa to Hue was about 100 km. I was not sure that I could find a place to stay in Ho Xa and the worst scenario would be to ride another 30 km to Dong Ha. I had prepared for it.
About 18 km later, I hit a small town named Hoa Binh. I was attracted by the laughter of the school children when I rode past a primary school. The students were around 6-10 years old, all wearing colourful home clothes and head scuff and lining up for some kind of ceremony. They were lovely and friendly. As I was taken some photos of them from far. I was invited by their teachers to get closer. If not pressured for time, I would love to see what they did. I saw more fishing villages along the way and of course, the sea.
The road was mostly flat with a short steep climb on the way to Dong Hoi and I needed to use my granny gear. There were also 3 km of rolling hills before Dong Hoi. I was not sure I could make it to Dong Hoi yesterday considering the road condition and riding in darkness. I reached Dong Hoi for lunch at a small eating-house after riding 58 km. Beef rice noodle was my lunch and a popular dish in Vietnam. I finally got to see sunlight for an hour at noon.
After recharged, I rode another 33 km to a small town called Cam Lien for a break. I had beef rice noodle again. It was not that I like this food so much. It was because I did not know what to order and just eat what they dished out at their mercy. On the way to Ho Xa after the break, I saw a dead body covered with straw sheet with a motorcycle toppled next, a few women were crying and burning incense and a big crowd surrounding them. Traffic fatality was common in Vietnam.
I reach Ho Xa at 3:30 pm and no hotel, just an Inn but who cared. I just needed a hot shower and a bed. To find this Inn was not easy. It is co-located with the town Governor's Office. I also found an Internet Cafe, which was co-located with the Post Office, a hundred meters away from where I put up for the night. Luck was on my side.
 With The Guest House Owner |
 Students at Hoa Binh |
 The Climb to Dong Hoi |
09 Dec 05 Fri Day 7 Ho Xa - Hue 109 km
Total Cycling: 675 Km
Luck was not on my side. I made a mistake onto the Freeway and it was terrible riding on it. That made my riding about 10 km longer. From the Freeway, I finally found a road sign directed me to a left turn and rode another 10 km to the city center.
The ride to Dong Ha was enjoyable, saw more farms, cows and buffaloes. A little climbing halfway to Dong Ha but not knee-breaking. 32 km later I reached the Dong Ha market situated by the Dong Ha River where I had my break with 3 baguette with coffee. This was the second time I had coffee in Vietnam. It was unique and tasty. It served with a small pot filter with many tiny holes below where coffee dripped into a cup. The coffee was as little and strong as the Italian Espresso. Another unique thing here was whatever drink you ordered, you got a pot of tea free.
I never got dry once I left Dong Ha. The drizzling never stopped and maintained at 16C. Although not as cold as 2 days ago but cold and wet enough to cause much discomfort.
Getting into Hue had to be careful at a Y junction just before Hue, either by the highway 1A or the new Freeway. My experience reminded me that mistake happened when tired and yet I made this silly mistake. I was just too tired and complacent. There are plenty hotels here and get a good and cheap one was never easy, not to say allowed bicycle to be kept in the room. I settled down with a US$15 hotel called Phuong Hoang II and it met all my requirements.
 On The Way To Dong Ha |
 The Dong Ha Market |
 Scenery Before Hue |
10 Dec 05 Sat Day 8 Hue Free and Easy
For the last 5 days, I had been more cycling than touring. I gave my bike and myself a break and more sightseeing. The weather for the today continued to be cloudy, light drizzle and constantly at 16-17C. For the whole week, I only had sunlight for only an hour.
Hue is a nice city. Just walking along the street was enjoyable. The main street, Le Loi runs parallel to the well-known Perfumed River and in between, a park by the river. There are two long bridges, about 500 meters across the river where the Imperial City is sitting at the other side of the riverbank. The 2 long bridges were Phu Xuan and Trang Tien, about 800 meters apart. I walked to the Imperial Palace by Phu Xuan and returned by Trang Tien Bridge. Another prominent landmark in the middle of the city is the Saigon Morin Hotel, near the Trang Tien Bridge.
Everywhere you go in Hue, motorbikes or cyclo taxis would offer you ride and some would offer sex. Street peddlers, some are children, can be a nuisance; most of them sell postcards, tours and things you don't want, even declined their offers politely. The children beggars, usually in the age of 10, would carry a baby in their arms, persistently to beg for your sympathy. I gave some but after sometime, found them annoying.
Westerners were everywhere and Hue had turned from an ancient city into a tourist center catered to the western travelers' need, Restaurants, bars, internet cafes, antique shops and tour companies mushroomed in the centre of the city. Western music ruled and western menu called the shot.
 Dragon Boats Along Perfume River |
 Cyclists At Hue |
 Imperial City |
11 Dec 05 Sun Day 9 Hue Free and Easy
The morning drizzle kept me in bed until almost noon. As soon as it stopped. After a heavy pizza meal, I hired a boat for a river cruises along Perfume River and all the way to my furthest destination: the tomb of emperor Tu Duc. I was told that Tu Duc was one of the most extravagant of the Nguyen emperors. During the last years of his reign, he supervised the building of his tomb, including a secret chamber for his burial, then he had the architect and 200 workers beheaded to keep the secret. Although most of the buildings were in a sad shape, they were still very impressive.
On the way back, I gave the Hon Chen Temple a miss as it started to drizzle again. Fortunately, it stopped when I reached the seven-story Thien Mu pagoda. A temple facing the pagoda was having the evening ritual chanting by an old Buddhist monk and his young assistants, dressed in saffron robes, at the rhythm of the gong and tambourines.
My cruise captain was a 20 years old young man, named Ho Van Tam who spoke little English and lives with his mother, sisters and a 3 years old little girl, his nephew, in the boat. His nephew is from his elder sister who abandoned the cute and playful girl.
It had been a week here and what I had observed so far.
The people: Most Vietnamese were very friendly, and especially kids, who bombarded me with warm, high-pitched "hallo" wherever I rode past them. I would politely hallo back or waved back to them. I think I hallo back at least a hundred times everyday for the last few days. In Ho Xa, a bunch of them surrounded me while I was searching for food. I felt like a celebrity. Perhaps there was another explanation for my instant fame: I had not met other long distance cyclist, foreign or local, so everybody probably just wanted to get closer to see that clown with flashy clothes and a ridiculous helmet on.
The Cyclist: Vietnamese cyclists and motorcyclists, especially the female wear a cloth face mask to protect their respiratory tract. I was passing a lot of cyclists riding like me on the shoulder, mainly peasants on heavily laden clunkers, young beauties dressed in floating light blue ao dai and school kids riding in small bunches. Some of them raced me on their single speed bike. Often, they would catch up with me to try their limited English: "What's your name?" - "How old are you?" - "Where are you from?", etc., repeatedly.
Water: Cheap bottled popular soft drinks available on every little town. I had 2 along the way, both bottle caps were rusty and obvious rust mark on the bottle mouth. There are many brands of mineral water but I was told the best was La Vie but I have been drinking more local beer than usual as the price of a bottle of beer (S$1) was the same price of a big bottle of mineral water. I had no problem drinking with the hot water provided by hotel in the hot flask. Food vendors usually provided free tea.
The Road: I was on Highway 1A for the 5 riding days and the road condition was better than my expectations. The further the south, the smoother it was. As for the road shoulder (cycling lane), It is wide enough for 2-3 cyclists. I had seen many student cyclists, especially the girls holding hands while the other hand on bike. It is shared with pedestrians, break down vehicles and cows etc. In some places, the shoulder either disappears completely or is coated with dried mud, or the locals to dry grain or vegetables use it.
Toilet: It was not easy to find toilet along Highway 1A. Petrol stations do not provide toilets. It is a common sight that Vietnamese man peeing at the roadside as long as the place was not crowded. I followed suit. I had seen a bus load of passengers stopping to relieve in the nature, the women went further into the bushes and the men just watering the plants at the road side.
Noisy: Not to speak of the continuous blaring and beeping in busy streets and on the highway. Honking was used excessively.
Short Daylight: Still dark at 7 am and by 3 pm, it would be dark and the 5 pm here like 7 pm back home. It rained again at night and was told it had been raining for a week. I just prayed that tomorrow would be better weather.
 Boat Captain Ho and His nephew |
 The Tomb of Emperor Tu Duc |
 At Thien Mu Pagoda |
12 Dec 05 Mon Day 10 Hue - Lang Co 65 km
Total Cycling: 740 Km
My original plan was to ride to Danang and it was never in my plan to spent a night at Lang Co, a beach resort and 45 km before Danang. But a few locals in Hue warned me about robbery at the Hai Van Pass gave me a second though. They all advised me that it would be safer to spend a night in Lang Co and cross the pass in the morning peak hours around 8 - 9 am as more traffic was present. It would be unsafe to cross the pass when it is quiet in the afternoon.
Get back to Highway 1A was easy. Just turned at cross-junction at the Saigon Morin Hotel, opposite direction of Trang Tien bridge. The rain had stopped and I thought it was a good day to start the ride. Just 2 km out of the centre of Hue, the cursing rain came again. My shoes, which took 2 days to dry, got wet again. The rain also reinforced my though to end my ride at Lang Co. I hate to ride under rain and get wet at the start of the ride.
This time I was better prepared, a poncho to protect me from rain. This US$1 poncho was one of my best investment. It prevented my upper body to get wet so that I was kept warm. The poncho was never removed until I reached my destination- Lang Co. This was also the first time I wore a poncho and rode 65 km.
Other than the disturbing rain and strong head wind, the journey was smooth. I did not get to see much and stop for photo taking as it was very misty. After all, the scenery was nothing extraordinary except on the top of 2 Passes. The first pass named Phuoc Tuong, have to use my granny gears but required little exertion. The second pass named Phu Gia was about 2.3 km long and it made me sweat even under chilling rain. So I was warm inside but cold outside. A few truck drivers gave their thumbs up to motivate me during the climb. As the road was wet, I was extra careful with the descent, otherwise, exhilarating.
As I was approaching Lang Co, I saw 2 things: Firstly, there were roadside stands offering the jars of shrimp or squids in preservative sauces, neatly piled in superposed rows. Next, a big Christian or Catholic cemetery, which was uncommon in a Buddhism dominated country. Later, I was told that most of the Lang Co people are Catholics.
As I entered into Lang Co, my radar search for accommodation was activated and I spotted a Guest House along the main road, just opposite the entrance to the Lang Co Beach Resort. The room was at acceptable condition but the owner, a Catholic, was very hospitable and provided help that beyond his call.
I got to know a 20 years old young man with an unique name: Money, a nephew of the Guest House owner. He spoke some English and I had my seafood lunch and dinner at his family run roadside restaurant, just opposite the Guest House. I also got to know a group of young man, staying at the same Guest House. 2 of them are Chinese, one named Qiang and the other guy named Leow. They were there for a timber assignment to transport the timber back to China. The other 3 Vietnamese men were assisting in the assignment. We had a nice chat over breakfast the next morning. The rain never stopped till night and I really hope that it would stop the next day.
 Scenery At Phu Gia Pass |
 My Room In The Guesthouse |
 Money And I |
13 Dec 05 Tue Day 11 Lang Co - Hoi An 73 km
Total Cycling: 813 Km
I survived through the Hai Van Pass, the rain and the potential robbery and made it to Hoi An.
The rain never stopped and I was told that It had been for a month and not going to stop anytime soon. So I had to do things that I hate, to ride under rain and more climbing. Before I could warm up my body, I started climbing the Hai Van Pass - the Pass of the Clouds. This natural barrier separating the cool and cloudy Northern Vietnam from the warm and sunny Southern Vietnam . The pass is just about 500m but the steep winding road with a grade of 8 % or more in some stretches, coupled with the low visibility up to just 5m due to the rain, was challenging. This is not the most challenging pass that I had conquered but due to rain, it would be one of the most memorable one.
I did not put on my poncho to climb the pass for safety reasons. The poncho might block my view when strong wind blows and it also covered my blinking lights. There were only occasionally a few motorcyclists and petrol tankers past by. All the tour buses, delivery and private cars would had crossed over to Danang by the new tunnel.
Past the summit, I carefully had a 7 or 8 km descent, as the fallen rocks and tree branches posed great danger with the slippery road. I reached Danang about 11 am and rewarded myself a good lunch at a restaurant by the river and the Song Han Bridge. The Song Han bridge, the link way to Hoi An.
The last 20 km to Hoi An was not a joy ride. The road was narrow, many potholes and several sections of the road were flooded and the water level covered up to half of the bicycle wheels. I gave the famous Marble Mountain a miss due to the rain.
As I arrived at Hoi An, I foundd the Hoa My Hotel and ended my journey here. The good thing about this hotel was it had got Internet access where 3 computers were placed at the lobby at the ground floor. I was the only Asian and the rest of the hotel guests were westerners.
Hoi An used to be a prosperous town and most of the residence were Chinese. But majority of them left as boat people after the Vietnam war. Now I had crossed over to the warm southern province and hope no more rain.
 Owner(2R) And Friends At Guesthouse |
 Hai Van Pass Summit |
 Song Han Bridge At Danang |
14 Dec 05 Wed Day 12 Hoi An - Quang Ngai 119 km
Total Cycling: 932 Km
It was a gray morning with very light drizzle when I toured around the town center. The town center looks like the China Town back home 30-40 years ago. Attractive setting to the westerners but not to me. My mood was not to enjoy the old charm of Hoi An but to get to Quang Ngai, about 6 hours of riding journey, as soon as I could.
As soon as I got out of Hoi An town, the light drizzle became heavy and into rain soon after. I never got my poncho off until I reached Quang Ngai. I set a personal record of wearing a poncho and rode 119 km. I hope this record would not be broken. It was both no joy and could be potentially dangerous riding a bicycle wearing a poncho. A few occasions, when the speeding heavy vehicles drove past me, my poncho front was flipped up and blocks my view. Similarly, strong wind posed the same danger.
The road condition of 8 to 10 km from Hoi An back to Highway 1A, was full of ponding water. Back to Highway 1A, mostly flat, scenery was water and water at both sides of the road. I only saw green paddy field towards the last 10 km to Quang Ngai.
I rode non-stop for 54 km to arrive at a sidewalk food stall in the center of a small town called Tam Ky. It was a cheap and not bad tasting lunch. The food stall owners, a middle aged couple were very friendly. I took advantage of their friendliness and asked permission to use the toilet. The food stall behind was their living and bedroom and I saw 2 young children sleeping on the floor with straw sheet. Then I saw a well and the crockery were lying on the floor next to it. To my horror, a pig farm a few meters away from the well and the toilet was in between. I almost had thrown out the lunch that just had taken.
24 km later, I arrived at another small town named Nui Thanh. I past a hotel in the middle of the town and very tempted to call it a day. Instead, I stopped at a roadside mini-mart for a can of coke and a small roll of Orei biscuit to console myself. 20 km later, I reached another small town called Chau-O. Felt like taking a break but pressed on for another 20 km to reach my destination of the day - Quang Ngai.
I wanted to stay at My Tra hotel at the riverside but my bicycle was not allowed to be brought into the room. So after some afford, I found the Dong Khanh hotel, it did not like impressive outside but the room was good for US$10 a night. It has got a lift and that made bringing the bicycle to the room much easier. I rewarded myself a good dinner at at the best hotel here, Petro Song Tra Hotel.
 Scenery At Hoi An |
 Friendly Couple In Tam Ky |
 Rest At Nui Thanh |
15 Dec 05 Thu Day 13 Quang Ngai - Sa Huynh 64 km
Total Cycling: 996 Km
I took things easy this morning as I figured out I only needed 3 hrs to reach my planned destination, Sa Huynh. I had a morning walk around Quang Ngai and breakfast at a roadside food stall and bounced onto two Vietnamese men in their 20' who spoke little English. They are Hai and Thinh. We had coffee and good chat.
The drizzling never stopped and accompanied me all the way to Sa Huynh. I got a brief stop 22 km later at Mo Duc for a coke and a baguette and that lasted me all the way to Sa Huynh.
Something strange along the way, I saw hundreds of small snakes, about 10-30 cm long, were killed at the road shoulder, it happened along the way yesterday too. There were some rolling hills a few km before Sa Huynh.
Been here was by no better choice as the next city, Quy Nhon, is about 175 km which is far too much for riding under rain. It seemed that there was no other town except Sa Huynh got accommodation. My map stated that Sa Huynh was a prosperous little seaside town whose beautiful semicircle beach is bordered by rice paddies and coconut palms. I found the one and only a hotel in Sa Hyunh, The Vinh Hotel. I got a pretty little room with a view of the sea for US$10. I was the sole tourist stranded in this Godforsaken place. This was like an oasis for the tourists, especially, the weary cycloturist. It reminded me of a popular song from the legend Eagles; the Hotel California.
Unfortunately, there was a power failure and I had no power and water supply for 2 hours. So I was wet and had my lunch at the hotel first before the power supply resumed. I had a delicious fish soup, plenty of tomatoes, pineapples, vegetables and spices in the soup. That reduced my discomfort.
There are more than 10 young workers, some as young as 12, working for the hotel. Among them, Sang who spoke very little English so while waiting for power to resume. We engaged in conversation. They earned between 300-400 k dong, about US$20-25. After my shower, I notice a young worker, Toan was limping his way caused by hot water burned his foot. I treated his wound with my medication. I also got Sang to help to buy a pair of socks for him and gave him the cream. I also treated him with dinner. That made his day from his beaming. They were very friendly and very curious about me.
 Hai And Thinh At Quang Ngai |
 The Climb Before Sa Huynh |
 Young Workers At The Vinh Hotel |
16 Dec 05 Fri Day 14 Sa Huynh - Quy Nhon 113 km
Total Cycling: 1109 Km
The sea was roaring and the wind was howling the whole night. It was musical and soothing. My room was less than 30 meter away from the sea. That was the closer that I slept near to the sea. The weather was kinder to me today, it was light drizzle at the start and after 10-15 km of riding later, it was cloudy but the drizzling stopped. I removed my poncho and never put on again although the drizzling came again in the middle of the ride until I reached the destination.
It was a right choice to spend a night in Sa Huynh as I never spot any hotel along the way. The road was not as flat as before. There were rolling hills most of the time and some parts required the granny gear and concerted effort. With rain and rolling hills, to ride 178 km would be like into a torture chamber. I saw more paddy fields, coconut trees, cows and buffaloes, hills capped with clouds and rushing muddy river water.
I had a heavy breakfast, fish soup with steam rice before I left. Other than stopping for some photo taking, I rode 60 km straight to Phu My, a small town for a baguette with sausage and a coke. That lasted me all the way to Quy Nhon.
Actually, I should have stopped at Dieu Tri, about 10 km before Quy Nhon. Dieu Tri got a couple of hotels. The road leading to Quy Nhon, some parts were flooded and a truck was stalled in the pool of water. The water level reached my bicycle bottom bracket and wheel hubs. I found Thanh Binh hotel as it was outstanding among the building. I got a good room for 200k Dongs.
Rain water had washed away my bicycle chain lubricant and replaced as chain lubricant for all the wet days.
 Goodbye To The Vinh Hotel |
 Paddy Field on the way |
 Flood Before Quy Nhon |
17 Dec 05 Sat Day 15 Quy Nhon - Tuy Hoa 96 km
Total Cycling: 1205 Km
The great adventure started today. I though it was going to be a fine day as there was no rain when I left the hotel. Just 3.5 km out of the town, The rain came again and I had to justify the good hotel breakfast I had just taken. It was the first mountain pass, the Cu Mong Pass that I had to tackle. It was knee breaking for the long and steep gradient. There were police guarding some parts of the road due to landslide caused by the heavy rain last night.
The descent was a killer and I had never got so close to death. The steep descent hit 60 km/h even I controlled my brake. My break was not so effective during descent due to the rain. Suddenly, A oncoming coach overtook the truck in front of it and the motorcyclist in front of me stopped to give way to the speeding coach, I would never able to brake and stop behind the motorcycle in time, I had no choice but to squeeze in between the motorcycle and the coach, I was just managed a meter away from the two vehicles. I would be a dead man if I hit the coach head on.
The ascent and descent mountain range continued for almost 16 km. At the base of the last descent, the rain stopped and after removed my poncho, I never put it on again even the rain caught up with me again later. The view up in the top was fascinating and the scenery after the descent was rewarding.
26 km from the start, I past a sand quarry. It was no fun riding past it as the speeding truck would create a sand storm that sand were hitting my face and my eyes. 28 km down the road, I hit a scenic village called Binh Phu and followed by nice flat coastal road for the next 8 km until hit the a short but steep pass called Nai. The village after the mountain pass was pictureraqe. While I was taking some photos, a group of children surrounded me and later the village women joined in. This caused a small upheaval.
46 km from the start, I reached Song Cau for lunch at a roadside food stall, as I did not how to order food, I pointed the word Com (rice in Vietnamese) and later the lady owner dished out a plate of rice with beef, lean pork and fish cake. It was a delicious lunch and may be I was too hungry after the morning knee-breaking climb. The nice lady owner was kind enough to give me some more fish cake when I showed my hand signal that was good.
After lunch, it drizzled again and another steep climb, I vividly remembered I did at least 8 climbs for the day. Quan Cau and Ba En were the last few difficult climb.
Less than 10 km from Song Cau, I felt strange to see long stretch of trucks, buses and cars were lining up, a massive traffic jam. As I rode on, the vehicle line seemed never end. I though a traffic accident happened in front and felt like asking the policemen stationed at every 500 meters interval. I did not due to communication problem. I rode for another 15 km then I realised the massive jam was due to the part of the highway collapsed. Only motorcycle and bicycles were able to cross the collapsed road. The jam stretched more than 50 km long. As I was riding past, some bus passenger and truck drivers gave the envy look. They might have to spend the night in vehicles. They food sellers were having good business, they transported their food supply by motorcycles to the stranded passengers and drivers.
20 km from my lunch point, I arrived at Chi Thanh and I had a baguette with water. It was a right decision as there were more hills to tackle for the last leg.
The last 7-8 km to Tuy Hoa was a new paved road and very isolated. I was welcomed by storm and rain as I entered the city, I asked an old cyclist 'khack San ' (hotel in Vietnamese), he pointed to me a building just opposite the road. It had no English sign and it was in fact a Guest House. The name of the Guest House ; Nha Nghi Hung Vuong and it was a 3-storey building. The room was just as good as a hotel room with attached bathroom. It was a steal for just 120k Dongs, about S$13-14. The guesthouse owners and helpers were very friendly and helpful.
Getting food here was a big deal. When I asked around at a mobile phone shop, a young man named Loan, voluntarily took me to a good restaurant called Babi, about 200 m from the phone shop, on his motorcycle. The good restaurant but the menu, in Vietnamese only. So I described as simple as I could that I wanted to have a fried rice, vegetable soup and a fried beef. It dished out a corn soup(not too bad), a plate of French fries( not bad tasting and with sugar not salt), a beef steak and a fried fish. What to do? Just enjoy the food. Anyway, the dinner was good and after all, I had not taken western food for sometime.
Although today's journey was less than 100 km but with it was the toughest so far with great effort. I had enough rain and missed the Singapore sunlight.
 Cu Mong Mountain Pass |
 At Binh Phu Village |
 The Collapsed Highway |
18 Dec 05 Sun Day 16 Tuy Hoa - Nha Trang 130 km
Total Cycling: 1335 Km
Finally, the bikeman, a happy man although weary. He was dried the whole day and had a glimpse of sunlight today. He wore his sunglasses and applied sun block. This was the first time he got a chance to use it.
Early on a gray morning, I set out for the sea, my next destination - Nha Trang. The temperature was between 20-24 C and I hope it would stay so for the whole week.
The morning ride was enjoyable, after crossing the longest bridge, about 2 km long, 28 km of flat scenic road at nice cool weather. Then I hit another knee breaking climbing, the Vung Ro mountain pass, one of the difficult climb. 4.5 km later, I reached the top and the view at the top was stunning. It really worth the effort. After the peak, mostly descent and some easy ascent for the next 7-8 km to reach the base of the mountains. The descent was not without danger as there were many heavy vehicles. The trucks and buses would jam break when the oncoming vehicle overtaking. It would be safer to maintain at least 3 vehicles' length.
After the mountain pass, I arrived at a fishing village called Dai Lanh, 40 km away from Tuy Hoa. I gave myself a deserving break as after the climb, my baguette breakfast had already used up. I had beef rice noodle and a can of coke. While I was climbing the mountains, I discovered my soles of my cycling shoes opened up. It was wet for the last one week and subjected to abuse usage. I had to get it fix when I arrive at Nha Trang.
I enjoyed another 2 km flat scenic road after the break and later climb another Pass named Co Ma. It was about a km climb and there was a landslide at almost the top. Similarly, the over looking scenery of the village and the sea was also eye-catching. I continued to enjoy the next 25 km of flat road with paddy fields at both side of the road. 65 km from the start, I arrived at Van Gia. I wanted to have a meal at a Cafe but it did served only drinks. As I was not really hungry, so I had coffee and cold tea. I planned to eat at Ninh Hoa, another 25 km away. When I arrived at Ninh Hoa, I had 2 coconuts instead. The coconuts gave me enough energy to reach my destination.
When my bicycle computer showed that I had ridden 100 km, I climbed the Ro Tuong Pass. It was easy to tackle but the last 10 km before reaching the city, it was a test of endurance as there was a long climb about 4 km followed by a steep descent. As I was concentrating on the descent and avoiding potholes, I missed the left turn to the road leading to Nha Trang. That made an extra 2 km when I discovered the mistake. The road leading to Nha Trang city was narrow with rolling short climbs.
I finally reached the city centre and so happy spotted a roadside lady cobble. I got my cycling shoes repair for S$1 but when I paid her double, she was beaming and that made her day.
To get to the hotel area, had to ride a few more km to the beach where the hotels were clustered. I found a guesthouse facing the sea named Nha Khach Vien Luc Quan. There was a seafood restaurant next to the guesthouse and I pigged it out there later. Nha Trang city was flooded with western travelers. It had fast becoming another Phuket in Thailand. Some motorcycle taxi riders here just like those in Hue, they doubled up as pimps.
 At Dai Lanh Fishing Village |
 From The Top Of Co Ma Pass |
 Lady Cobble Repairing My Shoes |
19 Dec 05 Mon Day 17 Nha Trang - Phan Rang 106 km
Total Cycling: 1441 Km
I waited until 11:30 am for the rain to stop but it did not. l proceeded with my journey to Phan Rang although I had planned for a day off. I had to gain as much time as possible to cater for any unforeseen circumstances. I got wet again. I had an early lunch at the same restaurant next to the guesthouse. I was the first and only customer. I ordered a seafood fried noodle and but the vegetables (5 types) and seafood more than noodle.
After 58 km of boring, uneventful and uninspiring ride, I arrived at Ba Ngoi. I spotted an convenient corner Cafe and wanted something to eat and drink. But it served only drinks. This was my 4 encounters and confirmed that; Cafes here sell only coffee and beverages and absolutely no food. I later bought 2 baguettes to top up my energy at food stand here. I also took notice that there were a few looking good hotels at Ba Ngoi. The first 58 km road was mostly flat with some long gradual climb. The road surface at some stretches rough like orange skin. Past through a few small towns and a glimpse of paddy fields.
The next leg of the journey after Ba Ngoi, the scenery got very much better. Green mountain lines capped with misty cloud, golden paddy fields, waving coconut trees and village houses made a perfect picture. At 71 km from the start, I arrived at a scenic village called My Thanh. From here on, the nice scenery eased my body pain. I suffered from fatigue, my butt was soared, my toes were burning and my knees were aching. I had been riding for 8 days, average 6 hours a day on the saddle.
Fortunately, I got the Godsend tail wind helped me for the last 20 km and I reached Phan Rang almost dark. I found the Thong Nhat hotel and next to it, there was an Internet cafe.
Until before bed, I had not decided where was my next destination. To head to the mountain city Dalat, 110 km away or next coastal city Phan Thiet, 145 km away, maybe a coastal town called Phan Ri Cua, in between Phan Rang and Phan Thiet. The chance I could survive better would be the coastal road but Dalat was a challenge and offered something different. Let the weather decide for me, no rain, head for the mountain. rain, coastal road.
 At Ba Ngoi |
 At My Thanh Village |
 Before Phan Rang |
20 Dec 05 Tue Day 18 Phan Rang - Dalat 106 km
Total Cycling: 1547 Km
Since there was no rain at the start, I decided to head for the mountain and the great adventure started. Just like the last few experience, once got out of the city, the cursing rain seemed never left me alone except the day to Nha Trang. I did not change my mind and I knew my heart was for the mountains.
The road to Dalat, the worst stretch I had ridden in Vietnam. It was narrow, surface like washboard and there were potholes every few meters. After 34 km of bumpy ride with some long gradual climb, came to a small town called Tan Son. Felt like taking a break but did not as my average speed was below 20 km/h due to rain, bad road and strong head wind. I had to gain time to reach Dalat before dark. 48 km from the start, came to a small town called Ninh Son, did not stop for rest either as 25 km later, would be arriving at a main town called D. Ran. After rode out of the small town, out of sudden, the whole mountain range appeared right at my nose. I removed my poncho to fight the mountains.
It was about 18 km of continuous ascent including Ngoan Muc Pass, the killer pass, at most parts, as tough as 6-10 % climb. When my altitude meter hit 1100 m above sea level, It was cold and misty. I saw pine trees and cabbage farms. Then I started some descent and 6-7 km later arrived at D.Ran. The 25 km of road, took me almost 3 hrs to complete. In fact, other than some occasion stops to photograph the stunning views, I did not rest. I even ate my Snickers on bike like the Tour De France heroes. The 2 Snickers that I bought last night gave me enough heat and energy to finish the 25 km of hard work.
At D.Ran, I had a quick bite, baguette with roasted pork and a bottle of mineral water. Another 38 km to reach Dalat. Immediately after D. Ran, 10 km of continuous hard ascent on a narrow bad road, I was hardly able to maintain 10 km/h and my altitude meter hit over 1600 m. It was stressful as I was cold and fighting to gain some daylights as it was already 3:30 pm after I left D.Ran.
After an hour to clear the first 10 km of ascent. I had about 5 km of descent to a small town called Cau Dat. It was already 5:00 pm. I had to ride another 22 km to reach Dalat within an hour, by hook or by crook.
Fortunately, after Cau Dat, the road got wider and smoother, the ascent was not as steep and got some descent in between. But the descent was no fun as there were potholes to avoid under poor visibility due to darkness and heavy mist. I just kept pedaling. Towards nearer to Dalat, there were some street lights, I just made it before complete darkness. The rain never stopped and my blinkering lights helped me to make it to Dalat.
I spent almost 9 hrs on the bike to complete the 106 km journey. I checked into Bao Ngoc hotel and had a quick shower. I was starved and had a sumptuous Chinese dinner at Hy Lam Mon restaurant, just directly opposite the hotel. The restaurant owner came and had a chat with me, she was a middle-aged woman, a Cantonese Chinese Vietnamese. I also found the best internet cafe Dalat, just next to restaurant, fast and with flat screen.
 At 1100 M Altitude |
 On The Way To D.Ran |
 Break At D. Ran |
21 Dec 05 Wed Day 19 Dalat Free And Easy
Something had been troubling me. I got a cut wound from Hue on my left shin just above the neck of the sock, when I boarded the boat for river cruise and hit the sharp edge of the boarding ladder. The wound was not recovering fast due to it got wet by the dirty water during the ride, almost everyday. I would feel sorry for my hardworking body if I had not taken a rest today.
It was a perfect day. No rain and cool temperature and I hope it stayed for the next few days. Dalat is a beautiful city. Azalea and many other flowers which I had no idea their names, were blooming everywhere to beautify the city. Many cafeteria lined on a slope as the main street to sooth the weary tourists. Just a drink or 2 in any one of the cafeteria would be a great enjoyment. A romantic city for the couples. Among all the cities, I like Dalat best.
There were plenty of hotels surround Ho Xuan Houng Lake, right in the middle of the city. Along Nam Ky Khai Nghia street, a row of mid priced hotel, Bao Ngoc, right in the center of the street, was chosen out of the many, for the spacious lobby. But the room was not as good as the lobby but with a big bathroom. For 200k Dong a night, it was reasonable. So far, I had cycled 1574 km and about 300 km more to reach Ho Chi Min city.
The ride to Dalat was the toughest in my riding history. It was also the most challenging and satisfying ride of my life. From tomorrow onwards, the ride would be mostly descent. I just ride along the wind to complete my Vietnam tour.
 The Flower City Dalat |
 Cafeteria At Dalat |
 Dalat At Night |
22 Dec 05 Thu Day 20 Dalat - Bao Loc 112 km
Total Cycling: 1659 Km
The strong wind in Dalat last night disturbed my sleep. The wind was so strong kept banging the windows and noisy. It was a perfect start, no rain, cloudy and at 15 C. I hopped on xe dap (bicycle in Vietnamese) and after 3 km of ascent and descent, out of Dalat city, followed by 8 km of bone shaking descent on bumpy road. I was from 1500 M dropped to 1100 M.
After which, more descent than ascent and 23 km from the start, reached a small town named Finom. 10 km later, I had a minor accident at Lien Nghia with a teen street rascal on a motorcycle. He overtook me from the left and immediately made a right turn. As a result, my front wheel hit his rear wheel, as he turned right, he hit a car waiting at the junction head on. I lost some skin on my right hand fingers and right knee. My bicycle only got some minor scratches. He got his day. After cleaning up my wound and applied some medication and plaster, I proceeded with my journey.
I later discovered my handle bar was tilted down from the accident and 12 km later, stopped at a bicycle shop at Dai Ninh to get my bicycle fixed and at the same time, had a short break.
There were endless long gradual climb and followed by long descent after Dai Ninh.76 km from the start, I had lunch at Di Linh and the sun was getting hot at 28C. Maybe I had not had sunlight for sometimes or the body shock caused by the accident, I found the heat unbearable.
The next 36 km from Di Linh to Bao Loc, similarly, endless long gradual climbs and followed by long descent. But the road surface got smoother and saw more mountain scenery, tea and coffee plantation. From Dai Ninh onwards for the next 50 km, were tea and coffee plantation. Almost every household along the main road, had their coffee beans sunning. This area was the tea and coffee main production in Vietnam.
When I reached Bao Loc. it was 900+ M above sea level. I got the best hotel, the Seri Bank hotel in Bao Loc to heal my wound. 400K Dong a night.
 Between Dai Ninh and Di Linh |
 Lunch At Di Linh |
 Tea and Coffee Plantation |
23 Dec 05 Fri Day 21 Bao Loc - Dau Giay 121 km
Total Cycling: 1780 Km
Honestly, I had no idea where would I spend a night today. I was not in good shape and unlikely for me to arrive at Bien Hoa, a city, which was about 150 km from Bao Loc and accommodation, would be assured. So I just played by the ears.
After almost 10 hours of sleep, I still felt restless due to the body shock from the accident, and also I had a bad stomach for the last 3 days. I had been eating the food from the roadside stalls and abused my stomach until it gave way.
It was a cool morning at 18C and no rain since yesterday. 13 km later, came to a mountain pass that I missed the name of the pass. I was treated 10 km of descent on a bumpy and winding road. The longest descent so far. The altitude also dropped from 900 to 300 M above sea level. The descent was so bumpy that caused my handle bar bag holder loosen and as a result, my sun block which was placed on the outer pocket of the handle bag dropped off without my notice.
At the end of the descent, came to a little town called Da Mri where I had my handle bar bag holder tighten. 57 km later from the start, reached a small town called Phuong Lam and wanted to have lunch but could not find a restaurant. So I had 4 banana and a bottle of mineral water and continued to look out for a restaurant. A few km later, reached another small town called Tan Phu but still had no decent food stall or restaurant in sight. I was particularly choosy about hygiene of food today due to the bad stomach. By then, the blazing sun, shoot up the temperature to 34C at noon.
I still never gave up hope for a decent place for lunch as down the road, there would be a bigger town called Dinh Quan, good chance for a decent place for lunch. 76 km from the start, I arrived at it but to my disappointment, no decent or hygienic looking outlet for lunch, so I had a Snicker with coke for lunch. 10 km later, arrived at Tri An Lake where people living on the floating houses made of bamboo at the base and zinc sheets and woods for the structures.
100 km from the start, arrived at Cay Xang, no accommodation in sight. Similarly, 108 km from the start, came to a bigger town named Gia Kiem, no accommodation available, my 4 bananas and a Snicker had long used up for all the climbs. So hungry that I had another 2 bananas and asked around for accommodation. The locals told me that Dau Giay, 13 km away, had got accommodation. Finally, I Arrived at Dau Giay and found the Mai Lan Motel that was new, cheap and clean. 10K Dongs a night.
Dau Giay, a small town at a major junction of Highway 1A, 20 and 760 but nothing more than a ghost town, I could not find a decent place for dinner, I had no choice but to venture into roadside food stall again.
The ride for today was tough as there was countless rolling hills with long climb, some pretty steep but usually rewarded with long decent. This was also due to the road was narrow and rough. The scenery changed to cornfields and tobacco farms in the middle of the journey.
Tomorrow would be easy as no more the washboard like and hilly highway 20 and back to the smooth highway 1A. Less than 70 km to complete the journey.
 Market At Bao Loc |
 School Girls At Da Mri |
 Floating Houses At Tri An Lake |
24 Dec 05 Sat Day 22 Dau Giay - Ho Chi Minh 72 km
Total Cycling: 1852 Km
I had finally arrived at Ho Chi Minh City after merry go round in the highly polluted and heavy traffic city. If not, I should be arriving less than 70 km. Riding in HCMC was really stressful and chaotic. It was worst than riding in Bangkok and Hanoi.
I survived with a banana and a bottle of mineral water before I set out as it would be pointless to search for hygienic food in this ghost town. I though I would be able to get some restaurant standard food in Bien Hoa which was about 30 km away. I could not take any more chances as my stomach was getting worst. But to my disappointment, nothing to my standard in sight when I arrived at Bien Hoa. So I set my pace faster and my motivation was to get to HCMC as soon as I could.
The road to HCMC was not entirely flat. There were some long climbs but compared to the climbs of yesterday, it was peanut. But this was the busiest road that I had ridden. Very heavy traffic and polluted.
In the middle of the journey, a massive traffic jam because a motorcyclist was killed in a traffic accident with a truck. The dead body was covered with straw sheet and policemen were around to handle the situation.
Due to holiday seasons, some of the mid priced hotels that I enquired were fully booked. Finally, I got a room at Tan My Dinh Hotel, just opposite the landmark of New World Hotel. At US $40 a night, the most expensive hotel that I stayed for this trip but worst it.
A lonely Christmas eve night in a foreign ground. It rained and that made me blue.
 At Mai Lan Motel |
 Another Fatality |
 HCMC Traffic |
25 Dec 05 Sun Day 23 Ho Chi Minh City Free And Easy
The good thing about Tan My Dinh hotel was firstly, it offered free internet access and there were many amenities within walking distance. The best was there were 4 bicycle shops within 30 M of the hotel and one just next to the hotel and 3 just opposite and side-by-side. So I got my bicycle wrapped up by bubble foam by one of the shop. The beautiful thing was the bicycle was done up in the hotel room.
I went on a self-guided city tour, instead of hop on my bike, I preferred to walk. But being a daring pedestrian, I found it highly challenging crossing the road here. It like fighting a war, be alert and to look out where the enemies from as the motorists here came from all directions. There was no respect to zebra crossing and some motorists, to the traffic lights if there were. I am not sure the people living in HCMC were the most stressful people. It was noisy , polluted and the traffic was terrible. I would never like to be the one living here.
Saigon River was a disappointment, it was smelly and badly polluted. A far cry from Perfume River in Hue. Shopping malls and shops were everywhere. I dropped by a few but looking at the price tag for the branded products, it was not so affordable for the common folks here.
Walked past a chapel, an ancient building sitting in the middle of the city, Sorry to miss out the name of it. It was fully seated and many people just standing around it to follow the servicing. It must be a grand service on a Christmas Day. Is the mighty God closer to me?
I had the best dinner at a restaurant called Rich at Thai Van Lung street.
 Saigon River |
 Ancient Chapel In HCMC |
 Food Carnival in HCMC |
26 Dec 05 Mon Day 24 Ho Chi Minh City - Singapore
Transporting my bike to Airport was hassle free. I just boarded a 7-seater taxi and had the back seat folded down, the whole bicycle was in good hand. There were many 7-seater taxis in HCMC and no extra charge. But, I had to pay US$12 at the airport for the bicycle as odd size luggage.
Now, it was time to recaptured what had been the experience for this trip.
No Punctured and Technical Problem: 17 riding days to cover 1852 km with no punctured. Did I say puncture ? Thanks to my hardworking steed that posed no technical problem, particularly, the Continental Top Touring 2000 tyres and reliable strong Continental tubes. This was the longest distance on a bicycle tour that I had no puncture.
The Adventure: Traveling alone in Vietnam by itself is much more than a technical challenge. To see the country on a bicycle from North to South, covering 1852 km both on the coastal and mountain roads, average close to 110 km per ride, it is, first and foremost, an unforgettable adventure, It was particular physical demanding riding under rain for most of the days, I was the lone cyclotourist and I did not see any other cyclotourist during the whole trip.
Language Barrier: My next challenges was language barrier, other than Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh city, Nha Trang and Dalat, most other cities, I had problem to order my dinner. So I used non-verbal techniques like hand signal or writing and smiling to communicate.
Food: Food was another challenge. I think most of the Vietnamese do not eat out especially for breakfast. Other than hotel breakfast, mostly, have to settle with roadside stalls where hygiene was a concerned. I survived with roadside stall food for almost 3 weeks but at last, stomachache caught up with me.
Air Pollution: The other risk was air pollution, particularly breathing diesel smoke from heavy vehicles. Especially when needed oxygen during a steep climb, then the heavy vehicles also struggled to move up the steep climb and blew out more black smoke for revved up the engine.
Water: It was not a problem as there were plenty of cheap bottled mineral water and soft drinks. In fact, I seldom needed to drink water from my water bottles except on the way to Dalat in the mountain range.
Weather: I was misinformed that during the dry season (Nov-Apr), rain was scarce. But it turned out most of my cycling days, I had to put on my poncho the whole day.
Road: Highway 1A was wide and 90% were in good condition. Mostly flat except from Langco - Hoi An, Quy Nhon - Tuy Hoa -Nha Trang, some high mountain passes to climb. But Highway 20, the road to Dalat and all the way to Dau Giay, about 400 km in all, was narrow, rough and undulating. I had problem to keep 21 km/h on the daily average. A mountain bike with front suspension would perform better for this highway. It was a very challenging ride especially from Phan Rang to Dalat. As long as keeping the riding within the road shoulder you soon feel secure with it, because there were many cyclists (adults and students) riding on the shoulder. But some road shoulder covered with sand or unrideable, had to get on the main driveway. If the truck driver honked, get out of the main driveway or keep as close as possible to the road shoulder as possible, if the traffic was light.
Accommodation: In most major towns and city, hotel rooms (no reservations are needed) were aplenty. But sometimes, it could be stressful when tired and no accommodation in sight.
Vietnamese: Last but the most important, the Vietnamese. They may be curious but they are very kind people especially the local village people. A man came to help me up when I met with the accident. When I asked for Khach San(hotel) or road direction, they were ready to help. They made me feel like a celebrity and whenever I rode past, l got ' Hello' the whole day, the royal treatment I got from the local people.
 Tan My Dinh Hotel |
 Christmas In HCMC |
 My Bike In Airport |
I have strong emotional attachment to Taiwan. Other than my motherland, I spent the most time in Taiwan. Out of my 26 years of military career, I spent 5 years living and working in Taipei and that was the most satisfying and happiest times in my career, probably in my life. It had been 10 years since I left Taiwan in mid 1996, nothing better than a cycling tour to revisit Formosa and meet up with good old friends, to commemorate my love for Taiwan.
02 Dec 06 Sat Day 1 Singapore - CKS Airport - Taoyuan
Cycling Distance: 12 km
Bikeman would not be riding solo again for Taiwan Tour as 2 Thailand friends, Kittikom and Supee, when they came to know about my Taiwan cycling tour plan, they were so eagerly to join me. We decided to meet at Taipei CKS airport.
I had a smooth flight and my unpacked bike arrived in original condition. At CKS airport, I was lucky too as I happened to be served by Miss Lu Chi Fang, the immigration official that I had known her when I worked in Taipei. She guided me to Terminal 2 where my Thailand friends would be landing later. Terminal 2 was something new to me as when I left Taiwan 10 years ago, there was only a terminal.
While I was waiting for my friends, I had sandwiches at the airport restaurant. Kittikom and Supee arrived later than the scheduled time. As their bikes were packed in boxes and we took sometimes to assemble the bikes at the airport.
The lucky star was shining on me again. As I checked with the Airport Police how to get to Taoyuan, the police was so helpful that escorted us out to a safe road leading to Taoyuan.
While we rode towards Taoyuan, the familiar atmosphere appeared, the Taiwanese songs blasting from the distant, for my candy eyes, every 100m, lined with flashy neon lighted betel nut kiosks where it showcased the scantily dressed betel nut girls. 12 km later, we spotted the Li Chin motel at Taoyuan County and checked in at almost 10 pm. We got a comfortable room but at NT$2480. Taiwan was as expensive as before.
03 Dec 06 Sun Day 2 Taoyuan - Peipu 69 km
Total Cycling: 81 km.
After the provided motel breakfast, we set off at 9:30 am and rode on Highway 4 towards Dasi direction, just 8 km of riding, Kittikom got his first flat tyre.
After Dasi, we rode on Highway 3 towards Longtan. 36 km from the start, we arrived at Windows of China. I gave Windows of China a miss as I had been here a few times and the entrance fee of NT$620 was too high a price to revisit again. So when my Thai friends enjoyed themselves, I kept watch on the bicycles.
We had late but delicious lunch at Kuanhsi town, a farm restaurant. We rode past Chutung, Hengshan and arrived at Peipu at 5 PM. As it was getting dark, we decided to spend a night here and found a Guests' House and paid $2000 for 3 persons.
Both highways were well paved but the traffic on Highway 4 was heavy as there were many traffic light junctions, all the way to Dasi. The good thing about Highway 4 was flat. After Longtan, Highway 3 turned hilly especially towards the end at Hengshan but the traffic was lighter. The weather was almost perfect at 18-20C, cloudy with strong wind most the day.
Peipu is a famous town for the Keh community in Hsinchu county. There was an old street here that maintained the Keh culture and heritage. We spotted many tourists there.
 Supee at Window of China Entrance |
 Guest House in Peipu |
 At Peipu |
04 Dec 06 Mon Day 3 Peipu - Tungshih 80 km
Total Cycling: 161 km.
We set off at 8:00 am. The weather was at cool 20C with sunshine, just like yesterday's.
We continued our ride on Highway 3. We rode past Emei, Toufen, Sanwan, Shihtan, Tahu, and Cholan and finally reached our destination, Tungshih at dust and checked into a motel with the same name. I paid NT$1980 for a room.
The ride was challenging and I had to use the granny gears. This part of the highway 3 was very much hillier than yesterday's. Whenever we crossed to the next town, there were a lot of steep climbs. The hilly terrain became steeper towards the south after Sanwan. The nice morning sunshine became scorching sun by 10 am. It was shining directly on my face in the afternoon. That made the hilly ride more challenging. I found today's riding tough or may be, my fitness level had dropped. I had not been riding hilly terrain since my last year's Vietnam ride.
We crossed our first tunnel, the Shin Zhuan tunnel before Shihtan. We had our lunch at Shihtan. We had a long lunch break to avoid the blazing sun and rest our wobbly legs. We only rode 36 km by noon.
The scenery got better today and at best further south. We had tea and orange farms in sight in the beginning, from Shihtan all the way to Tahu; we had strawberry farms miles and miles by our sides. From Tahu to Tungshih, we had hills, streams and lake views. We had frequent stops to have photographs taken and gave our soaring legs a break.
I had a bad day today. First, I got my bike's rear derailleur jammed after the Shin Zhuan tunnel. Later at Tahu town, Kittikom accidentally dropped my digital camera and it went dead. I had to depend on Kittikom's cameras.
I also found that my Thai friends were not compatible to my riding and they are too slow to my liking. They rode mountain bikes with big knobby tyres and carried too heavy luggage and some of the things that they carried, unnecessary. Very often, I had to wait for them and that compromised the freedom and joy of cycling tour. I was in a dilemma, I couldn't split with them as they couldn't converse in Mandarin and read Chinese. I had no choice but to help them to complete the tour.
 My Cog Set Jammed |
 Lunch Break At Shihtan |
 Scenery between Tahu and Cholan |
05 Dec 06 Tue Day 4 Tungshih - Gukuan 34 km
Total Cycling: 195 km
We set off at 8:40 am on a sunny morning at 20C just like the last few days.
Supee was given 2 choices, either to head towards Taichung or Gukuan and she decided to visit the latter. I would like to meet her desire.
We switched to Highways 8 which is a narrow 2 lanes road with mostly continuous double yellow lines in the middle. The stretch before at Highway 8 and Highway 21 junction was especially dangerous with many speeding heavy vehicles. At this junction, a little town named Tian Nern where we had a short break. We rode 13 km to reach here.
After Tian Nern, there were less heavy vehicles and the road was wider with road shoulder, but a short stretch of the road was under-construction. The ascent was not as steep as yesterday's. The scenery also got better after Tian Nien, mountains and streams on our right.
Today, we had more touring than biking. We had frequent rests and photograph takings. 21 km later from Tian Nern, before 10:30 am, we reached Gukuan. After we had unloaded our luggage and safe kept our bicycles at Dragon Valley hotel(could not check in yet until 2 pm), we had coffee in the town and walked the Shaolai trail. We soaped ourselves in the hotel hot spring as soon as we checked in at 2 pm. We had great dinner too.
 On The Way To Gukuan |
 At Dragon Valley Hotel |
 Gukuan Scenery |
06 Dec 06 Wed Day 5 Gukuan - Puli 73 km
Total Cycling: 268 km
We set off at 7:45 am at a little chilly 15C. We had an enjoyable mostly descent ride and covered the 21 km ride within 40 minutes. We had dropped from 728 m to 490 m and the sun greeting us before we changed our route to Highway 21. As we crossed the bridge at Tian Nern junction, the long, steep and winding road was waiting for us to conquer. We had 4 km of nasty climb reaching 690 m then gradual climb for half a km, followed by another 4 km of knee breaking climb again and finally peaked at 863 m after more than 8 km of climb. This part of Highway 21 was quiet, peaceful with very few cars. The ride was tough but compensated with scenic mountain views. There were betel nut tree plantations lined along the mountain slope.
For the hard leg work, we were rewarded with 13.5 km of thrilling down hill on a winding road with many dangerous sharp corners all the way to Guohsing. My bike's altitude meter dropped like the share market after 911, from the peak at 863 m to 370 at Guohsing.
Crossing over to Puli was another challenging ride. After Guohsing, we made another 1.5 km climb and followed by a short descent and enjoyed a few km of flat road. There where our suffering began again, first, a road that leading to Puli was closed under construction, we had to detour and that made us to ride a steeper road. We started with 3 km of nasty climb under the merciless blazing sun on the narrowest part of Highway 21, then merged with the upper end of the road that under construction, it was dusty, the road surface was like washboard and construction heavy trucks occupied half of the road. The next 3 km got back to a wider smooth surface road but as steep. It finally peaked at 690 m and followed by 10 km of descent all the way to the junction of Highway 21 and 9. I waited for an hour at the junction; I was worried about my Thai friends' safety as they should not take too long to descent as I told Kittikom to wait for Supee just 2 km away. Later I realized that Supee got a flat tyre just started to descent and Kittikom rode back to help her after waited for her for 20 minutes.
We were all starved as when we met up, it was already past 2 pm and the hotel breakfast consumed had been used up for all the hard climbs. We rode another 3 km, just at the outskirts of Puli city and found a Korean food restaurant where we pigged out.
In the city, we found a bike shop and had my bike tuned up as the gears shifting had not been smooth since the rear derailleur jammed on the second day. We checked into Jia Yuan motel at 3:30 pm.
Today, we had more mountains that biking. The 73 km really tired us out. We had felt the drastic temperature changed. We rode between 15C to 28C. My granny gears worked as hard as I did. I also found that my Thai friends both weak in ascent and descent cycling. I should have reached Sun Moon Lake, if I did not spent too much time waiting for them.
 Scenery On The Way To Guohsing |
 Scenery On the Way to Puli |
 At Bike Shop in Puli |
07 Dec 06 Thu Day 6 Puli - Sun Moon Lake 33 km
Total Cycling: 301 km
We started off at 7:30 am with another fine weather day at cool 15C. We rode on a wider 4 lanes Highway 21 with heavy morning traffic, 4 km of rolling terrain, followed by another 4 km of long gradual climb and we arrived at Ta Yen Tunnel. After the flat 400 m tunnel, we had another 1.5 km of steep climb followed by rolling hills. 13.5 km from Puli, we arrived at Yuchih town and we turned to Route 131, another 2.5 km climb, we finally arrived at the Formosa Aboriginal Culture Village. We had raised to the altitude from 450 m to 755 m.
I gave the Formosa Aboriginal Culture Village a miss since I had been here before. My Thai friends enjoyed themselves in the Village till noon while I kept watch on their bicycles. I would not be here if not for them.
We set off again as soon as they arrived. After a nice descent to Yuchih town, we climbed hard again for another 6 km and arrived at our next destination, Sun Moon Lake. We had lunch at Chao Wu (Sun Fog) cottage and stayed here for the night at a cost of NT$4200, a luxury room with balcony for a full lake view, dinner and breakfast provided.
We had a lazy afternoon, had tea by the lake and relax our soaring legs. At 4 pm when the blazing sun faded, when Kittikom and Supee went for a boat ride and I went for a leisure cycle around the lake. That made my cycling distance today totaled 33 km. While I arranged for Kittikom and Supee for the boat ride, 2 young ladies approached us, a Malaysian named Sylvia, and a Taiwanese from Taichung as they had problems to get tickets for the ride. The tickets problem was finally resolved and they went for the lake cruise together.
We had a delicious dinner and later visited the town.
 Entrance To Formosa Aboriginal Culture Village |
 Lunch At Sun Moon Lake |
 Supee Ready To Cruise Sun Moon Lake |
08 Dec 06 Fri Day 7 Sun Moon Lake - Douliou 80 km (62 km to Douliou and 18 km around Sun Moon Lake)
Total Cycling: 381 km
The morning weather was as cool as the last few days. The sun was shinning through the bright sky.
We rode around the lake towards Wen Wu temple which was just 2.5 km from where stayed. We visited the temple and coincidently, the temple was having its 30th re-built anniversary. It was a grand event, the temple was well decorated, performance stage erected with sights and sounds, mobile toilets, traffic policemen controlling traffic, ushers in red outfits and loads of visitors. Last night, we could see flashing lights from our cottage room. At Wen Wu temple, the elevation peaked at 840 m.
We rode further down along Highway 21A and enjoyed the beautiful lake views. After 9 km, we made a u-turn and headed back to Highway 21. We rode past Sun Fog Cottage, the place that we spent the night, the town and when my cycle computer shown 23 km, we reached Shuei Sher tunnel. After crossing the 500 m long tunnel, we enjoyed 3.5 km of wonderful descent, climbed 1 km, then earned 9 km of exhilarating descent all the way to Shueili. Shueili was beautiful and we had a short break there.
After Shueili, we turned to Highway 16, a flat road with wide road shoulder. 4 km from Shueili, we arrived at Jiji. We visited the town, the old train station that survived the 1999, 921 earth quake, had lunch and a long break to avoid the blazing sun at 33C. The weather was so hot that I wondered it was in winter. Jiji was a nice town that worth the visit.
We set off again at 1 pm. We rode past Chushan and later, switched to Highway 3 and past Linnei. Both Highways were almost flat with moderate traffic. We finally arrived at Douliou at 2:30 pm and checked into Jane Kang hotel that next to the train station. A familiar hotel that I had stayed before more than 10 years ago. The hotel staffs were very friendly and helpful. We were allowed to park our bicycles at a secured place in the hotel. They also helped me to check the phone directory and contacted my friend, Lin Hsi Her as I had his phone no recorded wrongly.
Lin came to hotel to meet up and we had dinner together with Supee and Kittikom. Lin the same old friendly and easy going guy who was as hospitable as before. We had nice conversation and I was really happy to see him again. He later drove us around for a city tour and told me the changes in the city. Douliou had changed, no more the peaceful little town. A well developed city with the Yun Lin Technology University.
 At Wen Wu Temple |
 On The Way To Douliou |
 Dinner With Mr Lin |
09 Dec 06 Sat Day 8 Douliou - Tainan 121 km (Including 8 km round trip to President Chen's home town and Tainan city tour)
Total Cycling: 502 km
We set off almost at 8 am. It was cool and cloudy, a perfect day cyclists.
Today we changed our riding route from Highway 3 to Highway 1 as our next destination was Tainan. Getting out of Douliou was easy and just rode towards Dounan direction. Highway 1 was the main road to the major southern cities which was wide, well paved with a motorcycles' lane and traffic varied from moderate to heavy.We soon rode past Dounan, Talin and Minhsiung. Around Minhsiung, we spotted the Chiayi County Performing Arts Centre where we our first short break for photo taking. After we rode 39 km, past Chiayi city and at Shuishang town, we had a short pee break at a petrol station. We continued our ride past Houpi and Hsinying. I gave up the thought of entering into Hsinying as there would be a detour. I had been to Hsinying before more than 13 years ago. I went there for a traffic accident compensation negotiation meeting where an accident involved our military truck. Instead, after riding 60 km from the start, we had a short break at Liuying shopping mall along Highway 1 next to Chi Mei hospital. It was already 11 am and the sun appeared from no where we got baked at 32C. We had some bakery and plenty of cold water from the 7/11 at the mall.
After 74 km of riding from the start, we arrived at Kuantian area where Ling Jiao; "bull's horn"(Ling Jiao are shiny, black nuts with two hornlike protrusions and a sinister face)roadside stalls were miles after miles. Ling Jiao was a popular farm product at Kuantian so I stopped at a smiling old lady's stall and bought a packet of NT$100 Ling Jiao from her. As I spoke to her in Mingnan language that I learnt during my Taiwan working experience, she became very friendly. She was surprised that I am a Singaporean and able to communicate with her in her language. We started our conversation and suddenly, she talked about politic. She must be a staunch Ah Bian's supporter and she told me that Ah Bian had been bullied by Kuomintang for the past 6 years. The Taipei mayor, Mr. Ma Ying Jieu was corrupted and she hated the red ants( refer to the anti-corruption and anti-Bian elements that wore red). She told me I should pay a visit to President Chen's old home which was near from the side road just next to her stall. I was not a fan of Ah Bian but from the way she described, it seemed pretty easy to get there and out of curiosity, so I gave it a try while my Thai friends would wait for me at her stall. It was not that near and easy as she described, I asked a few locals, made 2 wrong turns and finally found the policemen guarded, a re-painted interesting old square singled storey building, Ah Bian's old home. I took a few photo shots and quickly made my way back to marry up with my friends. My return trip clocked 4 km from highway 1 junction.
We continued with our ride as soon as I returned. Just we were about to arrive at Yungkang, Kittikom got his 2nd tyre punctured for this trip. While he was replacing a new tube, a middle-aged local cyclist, riding a racer, named Yang stopped and rendered his assistance. We started conversation and he told me that he started his ride at Hsilo, a town that about 20 km north of Douliou and he was heading to his Tainan home. He volunteered to lead us to Tainan. He gave us a treat to winter melon tea, noodles and brought us to a bike shop to have my bike gear shift tuned up at Yongkang. He later took us to a Tainan city tour. We visited a temple and Tainan Cultural Centre. He even took us to Chateau motel where we spent the night. He cycled home after settled us in the motel and would fetch us for a dinner treat after we washed up. He came punctually and drove us for some nice native food like Tansze noodles, bean curbs and Lily's fruits and ice. He also took us to visit all the well known attractions in Tainan although some already closed but his efforts were really appreciated. We had the night together past 10 pm. He would guide us back to highway 1 tomorrow morning.
Since yesterday, we were back to the plain at almost sea level. Today was also an important day, the Taipei and Kaohsiung mayor and city councils elections. From the evening news, Kuomintang won the Taipei mayor election but narrowly lost the Kaohsiung mayor by a thousand plus tickets.
Kittikom told me that Supee was too tired and cried and she wanted to quit from the ride but Supee, later told me quietly that she enjoyed the trip very much and the one that wanted to quit was him instead.
 Chiayi County Performing Arts Centre |
 Ah Bian's Home |
 Mr Yang Led Us To a Motel |
10 Dec 06 Sun Day 9 Tainan - Heng Chun 145 km
Total Cycling: 647 km
Mr Yang came to meet us at the motel as early as 7 am. He came with packed pastry for us to prepare us for the long ride today. The Tainan people were indeed hospitable. We had a better than hotel standard motel breakfast together. Our cordial conversation kept us until almost 8 am. Yang took us to an old train station named Bao An before led us to Highway 1 where we bode farewell.
It was a cool morning at 21C and cloudy. I hope it stayed that way.
We continued with the joy ride on flat road. I set a rapid pace, past Luchu and Nantzu and 33 km later, we entered into Kaohsiung county. We had our first rest after 39 km ride at a Kaohsiung city petrol station. I needed this break not for fatigue but to figure out, from Kaohsiung city, how to get to Highway 17 which would lead us to our next destination, Heng Chun. The gentleman, looks like the manager at the petrol station gave me very clear instructions, just followed Chunghwa road to head south and I had no problem to get onto highway 17 later. He was the only guy in Taiwan I encountered so far, was able to give clear road direction. Mostly, the Taiwanese I asked for directions had poor orientation and distance sense.
As we just rode past Kaohsiung Airport, Supee had her rear tyre punctured, we got it fixed and ride on until Linyuan, Supee had got the same tyre punctured again. By then, we had ridden 56 km, so I decided to have an early lunch break since it was already 11:30 am. Our lunch was the packed pastry given by Yang. After the half an hour break, we continued riding until we covered 85 km at Linpien, we had a 10 minutes break at a 7/11. We needed this break as the heat was getting strong although not as intense as the last 2 days.
I continued with the fast pace ride until Shueideliao, just before Fangliao, After 98 km from the start, Supee got her 3rd punctual again on the same rear tyre. We were forced to have a break until the tube changed.
After Fangliao, this was the end of Highway 17 and we got back on Highway 1 again. I continued to set fast pace and drafted for them but they had problem to follow. So we had another break to load up energy at a rest station at Fangshan. This rest station served a wide varieties of food with amusement games, was situated by the seaside and many tourists stopped by. We had not eaten anything since we had our pastry lunch. By then, we had already covered 110 km. After the short break, I continued with fast pace of riding as we had wasted precious daylight for fixing the punctured and we had to reach Heng Chun before dark.
They were unable to keep up to my pace, as they were no seasoned touring riders and after Fangshan, the road was not as flat as before. Although there were no knees breaking climb, but after 120 km, they had shown sign of weary. To motivate them, I decided to rest at Fonggang, to let them had a break and ate the delicacy of Fonggang, barbecued birds. We had each a stick of 2 barbecued birds. After Fonggang, that ended Highway 1 and changed to Highway 26.
To be punished for against protection of animals for eating birds, the last 20 over km, was a killer, rolling hills with strong wind coming down from the hills (The Taiwanese called Ruo San Feng)on our left, so strong that pushing us to the sea. There were a few occasions, my bike swayed and I almost lost control of the bike. We battled the wind all the way to Heng Chun. Just 2 km away from Heng Chun town, I spotted the brightly lighted Kenting Motel, without hesitation, I checked in and unloaded our luggage and rode another 2 km to the town for dinner. That made our riding distance totaled 145 km; I was told that this was Kittikom and Supee longest ride in a single day. They were thrashed and weary but proud of their achievements. Kenting Motel was one of best that I stayed so far at the price of NT$2500 for a double twin bed room with breakfast provided.
The scenery from Tainan all the way to Fangshan was boring and ugly, factories, town after town, car repair/tyres shops and betel nut kiosks but less the attractive betel nut girls. The scenery was a world of difference after Fangshan all the way to Heng Chun, hills on the left and sea by the right. The traffic was moderate before Kaohsiung but heavy at Kaohsiung, typical city with many traffic light junctions. The traffic was light after Fangliao.
 On The Way To Heng Chun |
 On The Way To Heng Chun |
 At The Heng Chun Landmark |
11 Dec 06 Mon Day 10 Around Heng Chun and Kenting 71 km
Total Cycling: 718 km
We had an easy day, to explore around Heng Chun and kenting area. We set off as late as 9 am as Kittikom was busy patching the punctured tubes. It was a good day for riding, cool wind and cloudy whole day. If not for the strong wind from the hills and strong head wind, it would be a perfect riding day. The roads were an extension of yesterday's last stretch of road, rolling terrain.
We first visited Maopitou and Longluan Lake. After we had a delicious seafood lunch at Kenting town, along the way, we visited ChuanFan Rock, Erluanbi, the southern tip of Taiwan Island. The most scenic part was from Erluanbi to Jialeshuei, the sea views along the way to Jialeshuei were awesome especially at Longpan Park and Fongchuisa.
The return ride from Jialeshuei to Heng Chun town on route 200 cutting across Manchow village, about 15 km of scenic road was also enjoyable as mostly on flat road and descent with little ascent. This way back to Heng Chun town was very much shorter if we took Highway 26 back.
As it was off peak season in December, Heng Chun and Kenting area was quiet with few tourists. It was ideal for cyclists.
 Moupitou |
 Erluanbi |
 Scenic View To Jialeshuei |
12 Dec 06 Tue Day 11 Heng Chun - Taitung 125 km (Including 10 km city tour)
Total Cycling: 843 km
We left Heng Chun at 7:40 am on a cool, cloudy but a very windy morning. The northeast wind in Taiwan starts around September ends in early March the next year. I was battling the strong gust head wind.
As usual, I led and set the pace, Supee and Kittikom were unable to keep up with the rapid pace attacking the rolling hills. So I reduced my pace and we finished riding 21 km under 50 minutes; we arrived at Highway 26 and 9 junctions at Fonggang. We had 5 minutes break at 7/11 at the junction before turned into Highway 9.
The first 2-3 km of Highway 9 crossing from west to east, was wide but later, into is a 2-lanes winding hilly road, not leaving too much room for cyclists. although is not as steep as Highway 21 from Gukuan to Puli but the traffic was bad as many trucks and tour buses speeding their ways. There were various different aboriginal people living along the road. 10 km later from the junction, I was chased by a fierce yellow dog that forced me to the middle of the road to avoid getting bitten, luckily, there was no vehicle from both directions. My speed shoot up to 30 km/h even on a ascent and it was a close shave as the jaw of the dame dog was just a few cm from my right culf. After we climbed continually for an hour for 13 km, I spotted a family run, tastefully decorated garden settings rest house at Shuang Liew (double flow). I couldn't resist but stopped for a break. We had fruit tea and engaged conversation with the Pai Wan aboriginal owners, a middle-aged couple with their 2 years old grand daughter. The lady boss was very friendly and I really wanted to stay longer if not having a long way more to reach Taitung. She told us another 8 km later would reach the peak where the border between Pingtung and Taitung county situated, also, the last 8 km of road was steeper and narrower. Indeed, it was.
The gust wind now came from the north with loads of very steep hills along the way, took me 2 hours to pass the longest 21 km climb for this tour. After riding ascent for 21 km which peaked at 475 m from 39 m at Fonggang, we were rewarded an exhilarating 11 km descent.
The Highway 9 at the east coast, was wider and the motorcycle lane was spacious but the fast heavy trucks zoomed by me without mercy. Just before arriving Dawu, a truck zoomed by me on my left missed me by less than a feet.
We had fried rice lunch at a restaurant along the main road at Dawu where we met 3 friendly middle-aged Taiwanese women and a man on holidays. We had nice conversation.
The highway 9 on the east coast continued with shorter and more gradual climbs in between. The ride quality improved but not for smooth sailing. The gust head wind really pushed me hard against north that reduced my speed drastically and drained my energy. After about 10 km of flat road from Dawu, the first climb was after Daniao, a 2 km of climb earned with the same distance of descent. We met with light passing drizzle. The next climb was after Dafeng, a km of ascent and descent. The next climb at Jinluen was tough, 4 km of steep climb once entered the town but was rewarded with 5 km of descent all the wag into Taimali town. Taimali was famous for custard apple where the custard apple stalls lined the town and the fruit trees were also spotted along the road.
Getting into Taitung county needed another 2 km of gradual climb. Getting into Taitung city was one of the most frustrating parts of the day. The signage leading to Taitung city was deceiving and inaccurate. Taiwanese seem incapable of measuring distance. I spotted Hawaii motel, about 2 km away from main city. Things were also noticeably cheaper on the east coast. NT$1800 for a room with double bed and a attached sauna room. Later, in the city, I spotted another motel that appeared better.
My Thai friends were unable to keep up to my pace through out the whole day even I set at a slower pace. They were not good climbers and had no experience in battling strong head wind.
 The friendly Taiwanese |
 On The Way To Taitung |
 On The Way To Taitung |
13 Dec 06 Wed Day 12 Taitung - Shihtiping 108 km
Total Cycling: 951 km
Another cool and cloudy morning and we started as late as 9:30 am due the morning set back. We rode on Highway 11 today and it was a great road to ride as the road was wide enough for cyclist and the traffic was very lower and much fewer trucks than the Highway 9 we rode yesterday.
Today's ride proved that I was much more superior than them. They were unable to keep to my pace, about 23 km/h. I had been waiting and waiting for them in case they missed me. I rode 32 km non-stop past Dulan until Chintsun beach, we did not hike down the staircase from the tourist facilities and just had a few photographs taken. Another 4 km, we arrived at Tungho town where we ate some famous Tungho bao-zhi(Chinese meat and vegetable bun). We continued riding and covered 60 km at Sansientai to have lunch, where many decent and curious people to talk with.
13 km before Shihtiping, we past Pahsien Caves. We had to give it a miss as it was already past 4 pm.
We arrived at Shihtiping at almost 5 pm and were in hurry to find accommodation. When I spotted a provisional shop where accommodation was available. As the rooms were rather small, so I asked for 2 rooms for NT$1000 after bargained down from NT$1200. After payment, we had dinner at a restaurant just half km away down below the shop, but when we came back, the wowan owner denied for 2 rooms, instead, just gave us a room. I was pissed off and asked for refund as she dishonoured the deal. She only refunded me NT$600 and deducted NT$400 and claimed that was for "resting" charge. We did not even shifted our luggage. I put the matter rest as we were all tired and no point fighting with an dishonest woman for NT$400. We got better and bigger room at the restaurant for NT$800 where we had taken our dinner. This was my first bad encounter with Taiwanese.
Today was one of the best ride. The road was not completely flat with some gradual climbs not longer than 2 km from town to town, and never left the coast. The scenery changed as the mileage clicked. Ocean, beaches, sun flower farms, hills, giant rock in the sea, rice field, fish pond and bridges. The most scenic part was the last few km from Dagangkou to Shihtiping.
 At Sansiantai |
 Scenery At Dagankou |
 Scenery At Dagankou |
14 Dec 06 Thu Day 13 Shihtiping - Hualien 67 km
Total Cycling: 1018 km
We left shihtiping at 7 am while it was drizzling and the town was still sleeping. So we rode with empty stomachs to Fengbin to have breakfast. 13 km later, we arrived and had our satisfying breakfast, meat buns, spring onion pan cake and soya bean milk.
Kittikom went ahead together with Supee while I was still having soya beans milk as they knew that I would catch up with them later. A few minutes later, as I rode out Fengbin, there was a split road, left to Kuangfu and right to Hualien. I confirmed with a roadside stall lady owner that Kittikom and Supee rode to Hualien direction. I over took them later during an ascent.
After riding 22 km, I faced with all the adverse conditions, the road got hillier, strongest chilly head wind and disturbing rain. There was a 4.5 km nasty climb around Gici and Baci to Fansuzai, then followed by short descent and ascent and finally a 2 km descent to Shueilian. 41 km had been covered at Shueilian. Climbing continued after Shueilian, 2 km ascent earned a descent to flat road all the way to Yanliao. Before Yaniao, I faced the strongest head wind in my riding history and I hardly able to maintain 15 km/h on a flat road. Actually, if not for the rain, this stretch of riding was not as bad as crossing over from Fonggang to Dawu and Jinluen to Taimali. I was just fatigue and weary after the grueling rides since Douliou. However, since Shihtiping, was the most beautiful section of the Taitung-Hualien coast. It helped to relief the hardships.
I stopped at Yanliao outside a posh looking seafood restaurant waiting for Kittikom and Supee for lunch. By then, I had ridden 52 km. I waited more than an hour for them outside the restaurant while I was old and wet, the drizzling continued and I was blowing by the strong cold wind. I dare not to take shelter from the restaurant as I worried that I might miss them. As my patience ran out, a helpful Taiwanese man helped me to call a taxi and I got the taxi driver to head back 40 km to search for them but of no sight of them. The taxi fares was NT$1600 for driving more than 80 km for almost 2 hours of searching. By my descriptions, I had also confirmed with 2 groups of road construction workers along the way at different sites that they had seen them.
I rode to Hualien city and checked into Travel Road motel and the only thing I could do was waiting for them to call me as Kittikom's phone had no roaming service. I later called Kittikom' son as I ever sent a sms to him to his mobile phone on behalf of Kittikom. It worried me as I know, both of them spoke no Chinese and Kittikom had only US$100 and S$100 and no NT$ while Supee had no money with her. They are no seasoned travelers and let alone, street smart.
Later of the night, Kittikom's son called me that both Kittikom and Supee were safe and apparently Kittikom did not know how to call me on a public phone. He later called me and with his limited English, I only knew that he took a truck but could not figure out how he could past me. Probably, when I went to my bike, placed about 20 m from the main road outside the restaurant, to retrieve my wind breaker from the panniers as it was too cold with my wet cycling gears, the 1-2 minutes intervals, the truck could have zoomed by and they didn't realise that I was waiting there.
For sure, the ride was too tough for them and I believe they had not ridden under such cold weather rain, hilly road and strong head wind. In fact, Kittikom had ever mentioned to me he wanted to quit the ride as we arrived at Tainan.
It was a great relief for me that they were safe in Taipei and there were Thai monks there to assist them.
15 Dec 06 Fri Day 13 Hualien Free and Easy
The cold stream arrived Taiwan since yesterday and it was expected to continue to have rain, would be cold and it was expected to last until 18 Dec. Coupled with 6 days of continued grueling rides and to prepare for the famous and scary Death of Valley ride. I needed a day break desperately.
I woke up unusually late. I regained my freedom today as I did not have to attend to my Thai friends' needs. I washed my hardworking and battled bike; especially the dirty chain and cog set and lubricate the drive train. All these were done in the car garage where water tap, hose, washing detergent and pail provided by the motel.
I got a city map from the motel staff and I explored the city on foot. I had no problem in orientation to the city centre. The motel that I stayed was in Chung Ching road, about a km away from Jung Shan and Jung Jeng road where all the happenings there. Firstly, I went to Bank of Taiwan to have currency changed as my NT$ holding was low as I had been paying for all the expenses since 8 Dec.
Taiwan financial market had a lot to catch up, as far as currency exchange is concerned, it was just like years ago, could only be done at designated banks, had to photostat passport and got forms to be filled just to have currency changed.
In the city, I had cheap and good lunch and later, coffe and cake in Starbuck. I also spotted a professional looking bike shop selling Giant bikes at Jung Jeng road, just diagonally opposite The McDonald. The gear shift of my bike had been jumpy and chain drop when shifting to the smallest chain ring. My skill level and the bike shop mechanics in Puli and Yongkang had not been able to resolve the problem. Later, when I went to the city for dinner, I rode my bike to the shop and got the bike tuned up by the owner, Mr Lin Ching Sie. Indeed, it was a pro-shop, he removed the shift cable and lubricates the cable and magically, the problem was fixed and for free. He advised against of riding to Suao as it was dangerous for cyclists. I enjoyed my stay in Hualien; the people here were friendly and helpful.
16 Dec 06 Sat Day 15 Hualien - Taroko Gorge and Tiansiang 68 km
Total Cycling: 1086 km
It was drizzling early in the morning and the temperature was 17C. As soon as it stopped at 10 am, I activated plan B, instead of riding to Suao, I would be riding to Taroko Gorge and Tiansiang as it would be almost impossible riding to Suao before dark.
So the bikeman was on the road again, alone again, naturally. I gathered information that there was a scenic, bicycle path starting from Nan Pin Park and all the way to Seven Star Lake. Since this bicycle path was also heading north, I gave it a try.
Nan Pin Park was just a km or 2 from where I stayed and getting there was easy. It was about an 11 km path, other than there were some stretch, the cycling path crossed path with the quarry heavy vehicles, had to dismount the bike especially before Seven Star Lake due to man-made obstacle, it was a quiet and scenic joy ride. I still could not figure out why the beach called Seven Star Lake.
At the end of the bicycle path, it merged with route 193, which was parallel to Highway 9. Route 193 was also a nice road to ride on, narrow but flat, quiet, past a cemetery, and very few cars. 10 km on route 193, it merged with Highway 9 again, a flat road and 27 km from motel, I arrived at Singcheng, 2 km from Singcheng, came to a split road, left to Highway 8, and leading to Taroko Gorge and all the way to the west, Taichung city. Right to the Highway 9, leading to Suao, Ilan and Taipei. Of course, I turned left to re-visit Taroko Gorge and Tiansiang again. I had been to Taroko and Tiansiang at least thrice but had never visit it on a bicycle.
It was a narrow road with a couples of unlighted tunnels, elevation increased as it was nearer to Tiansiang especially the last 4-5 km, and the gradient got steeper and it peak at 480 m from starting at 50 m. It started to rain again just before Tiansiang and I made a silly mistake, I wanted to delete an unwanted photo, but instead, accidentally, I deleted all the photos taken since Taitung and the photo before my own camera spoiled. It really pained me. The camera belonged to Kittikom and he lend it to me as his memory card was full. I used the memory card from my own spoiled camera. It was the second time I made such a similar mistake, first mistake was committed during my cycling tour to Bangkok in 2003. Camera should have feature to warn the user before any delete action just like the words programme.
The return from Tiansiang was easy, helped by the tail wind and down slope, pedaling was not required most of the time. But, it was very cold as I was wet and the temperature had dropped to 13C.
I checked into a family run hotel named Taroko Hotel, just outside the entrance to Tairoko Gorge, NT$ 1560 a night. The room was good and the service was great. My bicycle was allowed to be kept in the lobby. Later, I gathered more information on tomorrow's ride from the 3rd generation's owner, a young man in his 20'. He also told me that, from Taitung to Hualien ride, the less strenuous ride would be on Highway 9 that the terrain was flat.
As it was off peak season, only few tourists spotted in town, I had dinner at a restaurant nearby the hotel and gathered more advice and information from the restaurant owner on tomorrow's ride. The rain never stopped when I went to bed at 10 pm.
 Taroko Gorge |
 Scenery At Taroko Gorge |
 Entrance To Taroko Gorge |
17 Dec 06 Sun Day 16 Taroko - Suao 86 (83 km arrived at and 3 km searching for accommodation)
Total Cycling: 1172 km
I had heard many horrifying stories about crossing over from Hualien to Suao. Most people I spoke to, advised me to avoid riding this stretch of road. One guy told me this road called the Valley of Death and many had warned me about the traffic, particularly, the trucks that delivering sand and pebble stones to Taipei. But, without riding this stretch of road, my round island cycling tour would be incomplete.
I was so glad that I survived and completed the ride below 5 hours. I felt a great sense of achievement. Seriously, it was not an easy ride, but not as horrifying as what many had claimed. Other than the tunnels crossing, intimated by the speeding trucks and tour buses, the ride was not as tough as I imagined. Personally, I found that the Gukuan to Puli and Fonggang to Dawu rides, were just as mind blowing if not tougher.
I set off at 7:45 am and back to Highway 9 again. The great thing was the rain had stopped and the road was getting dry. I saw a glimpse of sunlight and the temperature was at 13C so I had my wind breaker on. 8 km later, I started clearing the first tunnel, Chung Der Tunnel. The first thing strike me was a warning sign at the entrance at the tunnel; "no bicycles". No one had ever warned me this rule! In the tunnels, where the shoulder was literally a few cm from the raised drain kerb, the drain kerb was not big enough to accommodation a bike and a cyclist, so the option of pushing the bicycle on it was out. Any vehicles coming from either direction was a potential threat. It was frightening to be in these dimly lighted tunnels and hearing the echo from the passing vehicles bearing down on you. The tunnels were dead traps for cyclists.
A km later, I arrived at the 2nd tunnel and the longest tunnel that I ever cleared on a bicycle, the Hwei-der tunnel at 1460 m; it was scary where trucks and buses passed within cm of my body. Within 14 km, I remembered I had cleared at least 10 tunnels, ranging from a few hundred meters to a km long. Her Ping tunnel being the last one before Herping town, also one of the longer tunnel.
After Herping tunnel, 5 km of flat road and 27 km from starting, I arrived at Herping town where I had a break at a 7/11. 7/11 was in every town and very successful in Taiwan, most of the 7/11 built with attached toilets and seats for the weary travelers. It had been my favourite rest points. Before Herping, in fact, there was a big rest station but I preferred a 7/11.
2 km out of town, Heping Bridge linked between Hualien and Ilan County. Crossing over the bridge, I entered into Ilan County and a 488 m long Haenbern tunnel appeared immediately after the bridge. The climbing started after the tunnel and 6 km of gradual climbing peaked at 220 m, followed by 4 km descent and another 5 km of flat road, I arrived at Nan-ao, by then, I had cycled 54 km from the starting and whatever I consumed earlier had all used up, so I had my noodle early lunch there.
As soon as I rode out of Nan-ao, the hills were there to test me. This part of the road was much steeper, I rode 5 km to reach another long tunnel, Sin-ao tunnel, at 1220 m and once I rode out of the tunnel, it peaked at 275 m and got nice descent all the way to Dong-ao.
Similarly, once I rode out of the Dong-ao town, the hills were there for me to take the challenge. This leg was the high note of the day, 6 km of continued steepest climb and peaked at 370 m, rewarded with 10 km of descent all the way to Suao. But, the descent, mostly bumpy as the a big part of the road was rough, also, some parts of the road was wet due to over flowing of stream water that spilled onto the road. It was also the coldest ride or descent I had experienced, at 9°C, my fingers were freezing cold during descent. For that matter, the temperature of today never dropped below 15C.
No complaints for today's weather, in fact, the weather was kind to me, other than the north east wind continued to push me to south through out the day, on a few occasions, the wind so strong that pushed me to the edge of the cliff, saved by the embalmment. Fortunately, no rain the whole today. I couldn't imagine what would happen if it was raining couple with low temperature and strong wind.
When arrived at Suao, like the last 2 descents of today, all the elevation gained returned to zero. The scenery today was one of the best, especially over looking the cliff and Pacific Ocean at the hill tops.
Suao, a small town, I searched around the town, the only accommodation was Suao Hotel where I checked in at the cost of NT$1200, not a bad deal for a comfortable room. The service was good and the hotel staff stored my bicycle in an underground store room. I like the power point at the bed s ideswhere I could charge my PDA phone. Later, when I went for dinner at the town, just about 30 m away, I found a motel. The temperature was at 10C at night.
 Stuning Sea Views Before Nan-ao |
 Stuning Sea Views Before Nan-ao |
 Lunch At Nan-ao |
18 Dec 06 Mon Day 17 Suao - Keelung 108 km
Total Cycling: 1280 km
I had a comfortable bed and warm blanket, with the cold weather, I kept myself in bed until 8 am, perhaps, and I was just too tired and had not recovered fully from the previous exertion. I left Suao at 9 am to Highway 2, a coastal road. Immediately as I rode out of town, before I could warm up, a km long Lanyang Tunnelwas waiting to be cleared. I spined as fast as I could to get out the tunnel, the fastest to get out, and the safest it was.
It was a cold and cloudy morning at 13C. I saw many temples along the way. The road was flat and traffic was mild. 30 km later, I rode past Toucheng town and I entered into Taipei County, also where the scenic North East Coast started. However, the traffic after Toucheng, got heavier, never in my life, there were so many trucks zoomed by me so close. The only way to be safe was to stay within the road shoulder. I never left the coast since Toucheng.
To compensate for starting late and had more than 100 km to ride, I rode hard at rapid pace and I was hungry after riding 50 km, no food in sight until 68 km arrived at the quiet Fulong town. Most of the shops and restaurant were not in operations due to off peak season, so I had a quick bite at a 7/11. 5 km away from Fulong, I arrived at Ao-di town, plenty of seafood restaurants were in business and many choices of food. Ao-di, a better town for lunch breaks.
The road continued to be flat, with some gradual and short climbs. The longest climb was before Longtung, a km climb and a tunnel to be cleared at the top. The next climb was just before Pitouchiao and similarly, at the top, a tunnel to be cleared. The last tunnel was very much broader with motorcycle lane and road shoulder called Ming Tunnel, just around Ruifang area.
I like the scenery from Pitouchiao to Patoutzu among the North East Coast scenery. As I entered Keelung, I saw McDonald and a row of seafood restaurant, I thought it was the main city but it was just the outskirts. I rode another 6-7 km then I entered the centre of the city. I spotted Hua Tu hotel which was situated next to the Keelung Temple night market where I had my dinner there later.
The room at Hua Tu was above average at NT$1380. I stored my bike in the underground car park. The temperature today ranged between 13C to 16C. I was fortunate that it did not rain during the ride. However it started light drizzle while I was visiting the night market and raied later in the night. Even with the strong head wind, heavy trucks and saddle sore bothering me, I still enjoyed the ride. One thing disturbing me, my eyes turned red after exposed to the cold wind for few hours and it blurred my vision seriously. It took a few hours to regain my normal vision. This was my first time I spent a night at Keelung and I enjoyed the night market foods.
 Rest Point After Toucheng |
 Scenery At Pitouchiao |
 At Keelung |
19 Dec 06 Tue Day 18 Keelung -Taipei 78 km
Total Cycling: 1358 km
I had finally arrived at Taipei safely and completed the Taiwan Cycling Tour, 1358 km on 16 cycling days and no tyre punctured. It was not the longest distance that I had ever completed but the routes chosen was the most hilly cycling tour.
The rain never stopped since last night. I borrowed an umbrella from the hotel and walked to a nearby restaurant to have breakfast as the hotel did not provide. I got a cheap but good breakfast, spring onion pan cake, wanton soup and soya bean milk.
After breakfast, I called my friend, Jack Lin to book hotel room for me in Taipei. Jack, a long lost friend, we had not seen each other for more than 10 years and 6 months. We had close working relationships during my job in Taipei.
By 10 am, the rain did not seem to stop soon, I had to brave through the rain to end the last leg of my cycling tour. I had 2 routes to choose, Highway 2 or 5, Highway 2 would be the coastal road, much longer but scenic, Highway 5, a city road. Since it was my last cycling day in Taiwan, rain or no rain, I took Highway 2. I left after 10:30 am at 16C while it was still raining.
Getting out of Keelung city was not as difficult as I though except there was a 2.5 km gradual climb to get out from the city centre. I rode past Tawulun, 7.5 km later, came to a split road, left to Wanli Central, right to Highway 2, I turned right , climbed a km of gradual slope and earned a 2 km descent. Later I realised that from Wanli Central could also linked back to Highway 2. I rode hard, past Green Bay where I ever spent a summer night with my old colleagues, rode through a more than a km long Wanli Tunnel, the last tunnel I cleared in Taiwan. I also gave the scenic Yehliou a miss as there was no point stopping due to rain. As I was about to enter into Chinsan, I saw many hot spring parlours along the way.
23 Km from the start, I arrived at Chinshan and spotted the biggest 7/11 I ever saw during this cycling tour, I stopped for a break as the early breakfast that I consumed had been used up to provide energy and to fight the coldness. 30 km from the start, I arrived at Shihmen and 3 km later, I arrived at the Eighteen Knights Temple. 43 km from the start, I entered into Sanjhih territory where the ride was getting more challenging and I left the coast. The rain also stopped.
Before Sanjhih, the coastal road was mostly flat and the traffic was mild, hardly had a truck past me, a world of difference from yesterday's. But after Sanjhih, the road got more gradual slops to climb all the way to Danshuei. 53 km from the start, I entered into Danshuei and the traffic got heavier and all the way to Taipei city. 66 km from the start, I saw a big sign, "Welcome to Taipei City" as I entered into Taipei city.
Jack booked me a room at Shin Shih hotel at Mingshen West Road at the Chungshan North road Sect 2 junction which was also near his office, South East Travel Service. Jack, the manager in-charged of domestic tours Department. He arrived at the hotel as soon as I arrived. We had a lunch appointment tomorrow.
After a good hot shower, I called Kittikom to meet for dinner tomorrow. I also called Chin Liang, a lady Taiwanese friend and off course, called my wife.
It rained again as I stepped out hotel to search for food. I was starved as I had not eaten anything since Chinsan. I had a good buffet Japanese dinner at Shin Yeh restaurant near the hotel. The next, I was at Shuang Cheng Street where pubs lined the street, the place where I spent many lonely nights there and once, I was drunk. I remembered I got drunk when I spent my first mid autumn festival in Taipei. I came to my favorite pub, named Wa La, the middle-aged lady boss had changed to a young lady boss. The rest of the pubs, most, if not all had changed names. The pub alley had lost its glory days compared to 10 years ago. It was quiet and not many people patronised.
 At Wanli |
 Eighteen Knights Temple |
 Shihmen |
20-24 Dec 06 Taipei Free and Easy
20/12: Jack came to my hotel and met up with his wife for lunch at a Japanese restaurant. I enjoyed the great lunch as well as our conversation. After lunch, I visited South East Travel Services, the inbound department new office, just opposite the main office. I was glad to see Paul Hsu, the Deputy GM who warmly received me. We had nice conversation just like long lost friends. Paul made a dinner appointment on 22/12 evening with me.
At 4 pm, I called Kittikom that I would be coming to meet him together with Supee for dinner. To my disappointment, he was away to airport to receive someone together with the monks. Supee was around and from what she said, interpreted by a Taiwanese lady teacher named Liang Hua Ping who was teaching Chinese to the Thai monks; Kittikom was unable to take the coldness and fatigue on the way to Hualien, he stopped a truck that gave them a lift to a 7/11, from there, they asked around and made their ways to Hualien train station. How could they miss me? It was apparently that Kittikom felt into sleep immediately boarded the truck. I could have missed them as my search was only for cyclists on bicycles. At the train station, they were lucky to meet a Taiwanese who spoke Thai, working for a charity organization, took them all the way by train to Taipei to a home that the monks stayed.
I waited until 9 pm, Kittikom returned together with 2 Thai ladies coming to Taiwan for some Buddistic ceremony, and the 2 respectful monks named Min-Hui and Wo-Kai who had been providing board and lodging to Kittikom and Supee. They both spoke good Mandarin. I returned Kittikom the camera and got the photos copied. It was not easy to live and ride for 14 days with someone with different cultures. Monk Min-Hui said that to meet and to be together, was "Yuan", well said.
21/12: I explored the Sogo departmental store and a few new shopping malls which were not in existence when I left Taipei. I walked around the residential area that I used to stay; Minsheng East Road Section 4 at the Kuangfu North Road junction, and all the way to Minsheng East Road Section 5. There were at least half of the shops along Mingsheng East Road Section 5 had changed hands. The most prominent change was my favourite Yongher Soya Bean Milk restaurant that had became a 7/11. The Welcome Supermart, 2 of my favourite restaurants, Hongyuan Seafood Restaurant and The Society Restaurant, the famous steak house, the Giant Minsheng bicycle shop and the Tianren Tea shop remained. The bicycle shop owner, Mr Lin Shi Ming, had handed over the shop to his younger brother to manage. From the shop assistant, I managed to contact Mr Lin and have fixed an appointment to meet him the next morning at the bicycle shop.
I met up with Huang Ching Liang at her office, the TCB bank at Hsinyi Road section 2, changed another few hundred S$ to NT$ with her and she took me to a nearby restaurant to have dinner with Zhao Pei Guin, Antonio Mok(Pei Guin's husband), Li Xue Choo and Pei Guin and Mok's daughter. I was really glad to see them again. I had known Ching Liang and Pei Guin for more than 18 years. After dinner, Ching Liang, Xue Choo and I went to a coffee house to continue with our endless conversation. It was a awesome day.
22/12: I rode my bike a few km for packing and met up with Lin Shi Ming. We had coffee and lunch together. He told me he had nose cancer 5 years ago and due to illness, he was unable to work and let his brother run the business. I was glad that he had recovered. Later, he sent me back to hotel on his motorcycle when he went for his medical appointment at Mackey hospital, just opposite Shin Shih hotel that I stayed.
Paul treated me dinner at a posh and famous Japanese restaurant named MITSUI, Chinese name: San Jing, this restaurant became very popular after Taiwan President, Ah Bian's son-in law, Zhao Jian Min was implicated for insider trading at this restaurant. The food was first class Japanese cuisine and the best Japanese restaurant I had been so far. Jack and Woo Li Ling, the lady who I had worked with, were also present for this dinner. Paul sent me back to hotel after dinner. I was deeply touched by their warm friendships.
23/12: I had lunch with Chan Hui Wu, Wang Fang (Hui Wu's husband), Huang Ching Liang, Shi Mei Hua, Hui Wu's mum, nephew and Hui Wu and Wang Fang's son. After lunch, we took MRT train and shuttle service bus to Danshuei and visited the Fisherman Pier. Xue Choo joined us at the Danshuei MRT station. It was a new attraction in Danshuei and worth the visit. After the visit, we took a river cruise back to Danshuei MRT station where we had dinner. All the ladies accompanied me for last minute shopping at Mitsukoshi Dept Store for Christmas present for my family members. After shopping, Hui Wu and Xue Choo went home while Mei Hua drove Ching Liang and I to look for one of my favourite food, goose meat but to no avail, instead, we had supper at my favourite Japanese Barbercued restaurant, Yamakiya. I never had so much food for a single day.
24/12: I walked to the Mitsukoshi Dept store, just a 1-2 km away from my hotel, to spend the remaining NT$ for shopping for Christmas gifts. When I returned to hotel around 2 pm, I was so touched that Ching Liang had delivered my favourite goose meat to hotel for my lunch. She was indeed a friend that hard to find. The mini-bus that I arranged with Jack reported to hotel punctually and after picked up the packed bicycle at the bike shop at Minsheng East Road, I headed to the airport and that that ended my tour in Taiwan. When would I be back again to visit Taiwan, I really had no idea. Maybe, when I miss my friends and the good food.
 Mr & Mrs Jack Lin And Me |
 Paul, Jack and Me |
I took part in the Singapore's first AIDS Ride in 1999, titled Riding For Life. It was a 800 km ride from Penang to Singapore, 7 to 13 Jun 1999. There were total 25 riders took part in this charity ride to raise fund for AIDS patients under the umbrella of Singapore Action For AIDS. This charitable ride became an bi-yearly affair.
The ride was supported by vehicle and no luggage to carry. I was riding a racing bike with just a double crank ( a Fondriest Top Lite with Shimano Dura-Ace drive train) and no sweat in climbing some of the rolling hills during the ride. Unfortunately, I did not pen down my daily experience on the ride at that point in time. I only recorded the daily distance and destination as follows:
96 km Ride from Penang, Berjaya Hotel to Seri Malaysia Hotel in Taiping.
154 km Ride to Hotel Anson in Telok Intan.
148 km Ride to Hotel Mutiara in Klang.
134 km Ride to Guoman Hotel in Port Dickson.
123 km Ride to Riverview Hotel in Muar.
175 km Ride to Paradise Hotel in Skudai.
Rode 16 km to the causeway and there after, about 30 km to Singapore Botanical Garden car park, assembled there and then rode individually to the nearby Tanglin Mall for the Welcome Rally.
This was also my first long distance and a mass ride. I did not enjoy a mass ride. This was because in a mass ride, the riders' abilities varied much and there were too many pre-determined rest points, some needed it and some did not. Also, in a mass ride, every rider had to conform to the organiser and the ability of the organiser to plan would affect the quality of the ride. To me, freedom, one of the most enjoyable thing in cycling, was undermined in a mass ride. Just like an organised tour and self supported tour, which is more enjoyable?
This ride was initiated by Andy Wee, my cycling friend. The purpose of the ride was to run in my then newly set up touring bike, a Litespeed Blue Ridge with Campagnolo drive train, everything on the bike was new. It also served as a training ride for the future expedition.
On 26 Oct 2000, we took a bumboat from Changi Village jetty with our bikes loaded onto the bumboat. It took 45 minutes boat ride to arrive at Pengelih custom, at the southern tip of east coast of Malaysia. Few times in a year, I have been taking this bumboat service for short ride to Desaru or Kota Tinggi. We like to enter Malaysia through this way for a few reasons, Firstly, the bumboat ferry service is just 7 km away from our homes in Pasir Ris. This was also to avoid the chaotic traffice both at causeway and Johore Bharu city.
The first day destination was to Kota Tinggi, about 95 km from the Pengelih custom. As usual, after 17 kms of flat road, we would stop at one of the coffee shop at Pengarang for noodle or pork rib soup. After another 3 km of flat road from Pengarang town, the road to Kota Tinggi was attractively undulating, non-stop ascent and descent, no particular high or steep climb but required some physical effort especially under the mid-afternoon sun. Along the road, mostly oil palm and rubber tree plantation. Road kill by speeding vehicles of wild animals, especially for those active at night, was a common sight. There were not many road stalls after Pengarang town and limited choice of food. We stopped after riding about 57 km from Pengelih at a rest station with a row of 5-6 food stalls and a decent toilet. It served only muslim food. This was our regular lunch point and after this, no food stall in sight until Kota Tinggi.
The next and last rest point was at the opposite of the road, about 73 km from Pengelih where a BP petrol station was on the right, from there, turned into a small village and there were some shops selling drinks and snacks. The road to Kota Tinggi continued hilly but wider with road shoulder towards the last 10 km. It was not a problem to get hotel room in Kota Tinggi and 30-50 ringgits could get a decent room. There were also Chinese food in Kota Tinggi and the pork rib soup in the town market was my favourite.
The second day, 27 Oct 2000, was a tougher ride. The rolling hill road was hillier and the climb was longer and steeper. More ascent than descent. I personally felt that this was the most challenging ride in Malaysia so far. Those who could ride to Mersing would not have problem to ride to any part of Malaysia, other than riding to Cameron Highlands and Genting Highlands. The scenery was just the same like yesterdays' and more rural.
We stopped at Jemalung for lunch. About 75 km away from Kota Tinggi town. The majority living in this small town were Chinese and getting Chinese food was not a problem. The villagers here were very friendly and hospitable, some even offered free durians to us. On a hot afternoon, it was a good rest point to hang out, have coffee at the coffee shop and engage in conversation with the people there.
The next 20 km to Mersing, although continued to be hilly, was not a problem after Jemalung. Similarly, there were many Chinese living in Mersing. Mersing, a lovely town was popular for people crossing over to Tioman Island and had got better infrastructure and bigger than Kota Tinggi. Getting a hotel room was not a problem. Mersing was 300 m above sea level.
For the the 3rd day's ride, we went further north to Air Papan, about 20 km from Mersing. It was a nice road with nice beach and farm scenery. I totally enjoyed the ride around Air Papan.
After 2 days of riding and knowing the road terrain well, the return trip ride was just the reversed and more predictable. We knew how to set our pace and knew to conserve energy for the endless climbing. Other than I had problem with my new saddle that really hurt my buttock, riding back to Kota Tinggi was not a problem.
On the last day, we rode home by the causeway. It was just 42 km away from causeway but on the highway, some parts of the road were real steep and long. I had no joy riding in Johore Bharu city where the traffice was heavy the air was highly polluted. We stopped at Pelangi shopping complex for lunch.
When arrived at the causeway, we followed the motorcycle lane to clear the immigration and custome. Watch out for the manhole grill, the road bike tiny tyre would get stuck into the gaps of the grill and that may cause a fall. From causeway back to our home in Pasir Ris, another 38 km to ride. It was a total of more than 400 km ride.
This ride was a last minute decision. I had a week of leave to ride and my original plan was either a ride from Bangkok to Chiang Mai or a ride in Taiwan. It would be a pressured ride than a pleasurable ride due to short leave and considering the flying time. So the best option was a ride across the causeway.
Yichun had been grueling to the computer and he must be bored. When I invitated him for the ride and he had gladly accepted. We decided to ride to Malacca and this was our first multiple day cycling trip, he named this ride:Tour De Malacca.
06 Jun 05 Potian 97 km:
We started unusually late at 9:15 am and by the time we reached the Woodland checkpoint; it was already 11 am after riding 37 km from our home in Pasir Ris. I had not been riding into Malaysia through the causeway since the new checkpoint was built. We did not know where to ride across, as we could not find the motorcycle lanes which share by cyclists. So we took our chances and used the car lanes and fortunately, after riding about 500 M on the flyover, we saw the motorcycle lanes merged on the left. We carried our bikes over the road divider and joined in the queue with the motorcyclists. The causeway was packed but better than what I had expected. The heat coupled with the pollutants discharged from the fuming motorcycles made the clearing of immigration unbearable. It took us almost an hour to clear the causeway. By then, I was hungry, as I had not eaten before the ride. I never enjoy riding in JB especially on a hot afternoon, the drivers here drive like speed demons.
We could not find a good place to stop for lunch until I spotted a coffee shop at the outskirt of JB. The sun got scorcher and the road became hilly after lunch. When we were about to reach Pekan Nanas, the sky turned dark. As the rain was about to come so when I saw a hardware shop, we turned in and stopped for a break to avoid the rain as we had already pedaled 30 km from our lunch point. The hospitable shop owner offered us chairs to rest and the pouring rain lasted an hour. The Malaysians are nice people and I have yet to meet a hostile one. We proceeded with our journey after the rain stopped and reached Potian Hotel before 4 pm.
We walked along the main road for a km or 2, to look for food after washed up but could not find a decent Chinese food restaurant. We settled KFC for dinner. This was not the first time I came to Potian but my first time spent a night here.
 First rest point at JB |
 Avoiding rain at Pekan Nanas |
 Yichun at the seaside |
07 Jun 05 Malacca 170 km:
To justify for the satisfying hotel breakfast, we rode 65 km non-stop mostly on flat road. We had our first deserving break at a deserted bus stop at the outskirt of Batu Pahat. The last 10 km or so to Batu Pahat town was rolling hills but not a problem. The weather was humid until after we rode anther 8 km and arrived at Batu Pahat town. It started to drizzle so we changed our plan to have lunch at Batu Pahat instead of Muar so that we can avoid the rain. We had BBQ pork rice at a food centre while it was raining heavily for an hour. Soon the rain stopped, we continued with our ride and once the rain cloud cleared, the weather changed drastically, it was scorching all the way. We had our break again after more than 50 km ride to Muar. Muar River was wide and beautiful and we had a few photos taken. We had another photo taking session at the border between Johore and Malacca state. The road was flat and the last 20 km to Malacca was rolling hills. The merciless sunlight was shining directly onto our faces and we were fatigued and inching our way.
The last 10 km seemed never end. We arrived at Straits Meridian hotel at almost 5 pm. It is a good hotel, at the fringe of the heart of the city, spacious service apartment type with a living room, RM$150 with breakfast for 2.
It was Yichun's longest ride in a single day. I admired his determination, as he had not been riding regularly lately, let alone, on such a long distance. I had developed saddle sore as my new Brooks saddle broke my ass before it broke in.
 Yichun ready for his longest ride |
 Lunch at Batu Pahat |
 Yichun at Muar River |
08 Jun 05 Batu Pahat 100 km:
We pampered ourselves with a long night sleep and we had good hotel breakfast at 9 am. We left hotel at 11 am and rode 45 km non-stop to Muar where we had our first rest at a petrol station. It was a cloudy day but with strong head wind. We stopped again after 75 km at another petrol station to rest my tearing butt. Just riding another 10 km away, my saddlebag support gave way as I did not tighten the securing screws enough and due to heavy vibration on a stretch of rough road surface as the road was under re-surfacing.
We arrived at Batu Pahat Pelican Hotel at 4 pm. After washed up, we walked the town for a km or 2 and found no decent Chinese restaurant. We ended up again having KFC for dinner. On the way back, we found a food court just opposite the hotel had just opened for business. We had supper there later and not a bad choice.
 Yichun was ready to ride |
 rest at a petrol station |
 Entrance of Pelican hotel |
09 Jun 05 Potian Kerchil 76 km:
We left Batu Pahat at 11:30 am and we were riding at a relax pace. We stopped and took riding action photos along the rolling hill, about 8 km out of the town. Soon we finished the photographing, the hot sun had been missing yesterday sudden arrived. We stopped for durians after riding 18 km, just could not resist the temptation. It was a great deal, 3 tasty durians for only RM $2.70. We had a brief stop at a petrol station after another 20 km. The head wind was stronger than yesterday and the hottest riding day for this tour. We felt like we were crawling and not riding, at some stretch, we had problem to maintain 25 km/h. I think fatigue was creeping in after 3 day's ride. We finally arrived Potian Hotel at 3:30 pm. Although the shortest ride for this trip, we felt just as tired as the last 3 days.
Potian hotel has just started a few months. It is situated at the Jalan Kukup cross-junction, the best around and with a Giant supermarket next to it. Many stores, restaurants and pubs around its vicinity. I made a mistake during the last stay 3 days ago, by walking to the main road to hunt for food. There are cheap and good seafood along the sea, including a food court. We spend just RM$ 80 to have lobster, steam fish, BBQ stingray, fried bull frog and baby Kai lan, including a cane of beer and 2 100-plus soft drinks. More importantly, the dinner was sumptuous. Later, we had fried hor fun for just RM$5. It is a hang out or stops over place for cyclists.
 I was struggling |
 Yichun attacked the rolling hills |
 Durian break |
10 Jun 05: Home Sweet Home 96 km:
We left the hotel at 8:30 am after breakfast. We rode like champions on the rolling hills non-stop for 38 km and had a short break at a petrol atation at the outskirt of JB. The later city riding at JB was not so enjoyable. We were the only cyclists to fight our way with the motorists.
Everything went on smoothly until at the Malaysia immigration. As it was around 11 am, the traffic was light and most of the immigration counters were closed. We passed the immigration counters and saw noone manning and stopped us. We though there was immigration counter further up, so we proceeded our way. We found it strange later as we found counter no more. We stopped and went to a counter for clearing those enter by cars. The immigration officer refused to clear us and directed us back to the immigration counter clearing motorcyclists. We had no choice and rode against the traffice and back to the motorcyclist counter to get ourselves cleared. At the Singapore side, everything was hassle free and within half an hour, we were back on the road again. We had our lunch at the famous Yong Tau Foo at Upper Thomson Road and reached home just past 1 pm. We had sucessfully completed this 539 km trip with great satisfaction.
I did not ride my Litespeed touring bike for this trip, instead, my Cinelli Super Corsa fitted with Carradice Saddlebag with the Carradice Bagman support. This is my first time using saddlebag and it is an good alternative to the panniers for a short cycling trip on well paved road. My Carradice Lowsaddle bag was big enough for 2 persons' simple luggages and some essential items. Once it is properly set up and tighten all the screws, it serves well for a trip lasting a week or so.
I did my ride in Bintan Island with my brother-in-law, K F Yee , from 25 to 27 May 02. It was a last minute decision as we both had difficuties to find a time slot that both were free to explore Bintan Island. My original plan was to take a ferry from Singapore Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal to Bintan Bandar Bentan Telani terminal where the Bintan Resorts were, spend a day or two there, ride to Tanjung Pinang and then depart from there. But the ferries to the Resorts and the hotels in the Resorts were fully booked due to peak seasons (school holidays). We could only get ferry tickets to Tanjung Pinanag. So we changed our plan, the ride started and ended in Tanjung Pinang
On 25 May 02, we took the first ferry leaving from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal(my first time taking a ferry there too) to Tanjung Pinang. The ferry terminal was flooded with tourists and holidaysmakers. We checked in our bicycles and only got to see the bicycles again after boarding the ferry.
Even we took the first ferry by Penguin, we arrived at Tanjung Pinang almost at 11 am. We carried our bicycles out from the ferry and had no problem to clear from the Indonesia custom and immigration. Outside the arrival hall, it was crowded with taxi drivers and people selling hotels and tours. We rode out of the busy Tanjung Pinang town and after about 11 km, we turned left before the Royal Palace Hotel, as the locals told us. The road was still busy for a while and got hilly later. After about 28 km of riding, we rode past a fishing town with a big bridge. After that, we came to a beautiful coast, nice sandy beach decorated with countless of coconut trees. After climbing a long and gradual slope, we arrived at the Trikora Beach Resort where we had booked our room. It was about 36 km from Tanjung Pinang town. We checked in and had lunch in the resort. The Trikora Beach Resort was a 2- storey wooden and concrete building, all rooms attached with balconies facing the sea. S$50 a night, was considered cheap compared to the Bintan Resorts. We spent the afternoon riding back to the fishing town, rode to Trikora Beach 4 and strolled around the beach resorts. We met a group of cyclists in their 20', all on mountain bikes, rode came from the Bintan Resorts.
On 26 May 02, we rode to the Bintan Resorts. We climbed a steep slope before arriving at Trikora Beach 4 area and had our breakfast there at a stall at the beach. As it was still early, we could get only some instant noodles and tea. After the unsatisfactory morning fix, we continued to enjoy the flat coastline with the beautiful Trikora beach seaviews for the next 20 km, past a few villages, once the sea disappeared, the road became hilly. After about 50 km from the Trikora Beach Resort, we came to a junction and turned right to Bintan Resorts. Turned left would lead to Tanjung Pinang town which I had yet to explore this road. The road continued to be hilly all the way to Bintan Resorts. After riding about 72 km, we came to a gate and 12 km more to ride before the Resorts. The road became wider and smoothly paved but remained hilly. We wanted to have lunch at one of the resorts but made a wrong turn. If we detoured back, we would have to ride another 20 km or so. So we decided to ride back to the gate where the entrance was and had lunch around the area. After lunch, we headed back to Trikora Beach Resorts and under the rain. The round trip for the day's ride was about 160 km.
On 27 May 02 morning, we took things easy. After breakfast, we took some photos around the beach resorts area and on the road again at 9:30 am. We planned to take the 2 pm ferry back to Singapore. After riding half way, it started to rain all the way to Tanjung Pinang. We rode to the Ferry Company, Penguin office downtown on Jalan Merdeka, near the clock tower. Unfortunately, the 2 pm ferry was fully booked and we could only had the 6 pm ferry. Since we were wet and got the whole afternoon to spend, we checked into a hotel, had our shower and changed to street clothes. We had lunch at one and the only Chinese restaurant in town and strolling over the Tanjung Pinang town until 5 pm. The ferry at 6 pm was also packed with tourists, majority, if not all, from Singapore. We rode 293 km for 3 days including the journey to Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal from Home in my Pasir Ris.
Bintan was lowly populated and the ride in Bintan was one of the my best experience. I would be doing more short ride there in future. The roads were excellent and the traffice was low. Nearly untouched countryside atmosphere, riding along Trikora beach and the peaceful villages were refreshing.
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